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Isuzu Repair Questions and Answers

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Question: 1998 Isuzu Trooper 3.5L, V-6 mileage: 62,000. After cruising 100+ miles on the highway using the cruise control, I slow down at a traffic light and the car stalls. It restarts without problem but the idle is poor and sometimes quits. This morning the car started great, but after I came out of the store and restarted, it would not idle unless I pump the gas or maintained RPM\'s above 1000. Made it home and checked all hoses and connections and started ok with good idle. Is this an IAC valve problem?

Answer: Your problem may be an IAC (idle air control) valve. Also, check for a faulty EGR (exhaust gas recycling) valve that may be sticking open.

Question: 1992 Isuzu Rodeo 3.1 v6, 5 speed 4x4. I am trying to replace the clutch in my car but need to pull the transfer case in order to get the tranny out. I have removed all of the bolts and it will not budge. I have tried putting it into gear and then out and pulling, prying, etc. Is there something I am missing? How do I get the transfer case off the tranny? I am 100% sure ALL the bolts are out, and it seems to pull apart a little, but then just stops and will not go any farther.

Answer: We are not familiar with your particular vehicle. However, when replacing the clutch on similar cars, we pull the transfer case and transmission out as one unit.

Question: 1988 Isuzu trooper 2.6 mileage: 145,000. My fuel injection (ITEC) has a hard starting problem each morning. It idles very roughly. The check engine lamp comes on periodically. Checked and noticed the problem is from the oxygen sensor (sensor not yet replaced). I think I'm not getting enough power from this engine. I'm way over here in Cameroon, West Africa, a little too far from good test equipment.

Answer: Obviously, the first thing to do is to replace the oxygen sensor. A faulty oxygen sensor would adversely affect engine performance. In addition, with 145,000 miles a major tune would be in order if not done recently.

Question: 1991 Isuzu Rodeo 6 cylinder 3.1 mileage: 88,000. Can't pass Calif. smog test. H/C is way high, even at idle (in Calif. they call this a 'gross polluter'), l everything else is OK - car runs fine. Had tune up done - plugs, wires, dist. cap, rotor, filters, oil, adjust timing, etc. Still way high on H/C levels. Mechanic replaced throttle body gasket, which was worn. I've had most of the general upkeep on the car done, major tune-ups and a few minor ones. Oil changes, by and large. Use 'regular' gas though. Mechanic says there is carbon buildup in the cylinders, and compression for each cylinder reads: 1 - 165; 2 - 205; 3 - 185; 4 - 195; 5 - 205; 6 - 130. Mechanic wants to re-build engine - says it's the only way. Cost is about $5200. (Does that seem high?) Says he can't get a re-built anywhere locally and needs to have my motor re-built. Says new motor from Isuzu would cost more than $5200 to buy and install. Engine SEEMS to run basically fine. Idles great, runs fine. Never any trouble. Doesn't shoot out dark smoke or anything when I start it or drive it, although you can see from tailpipe that there is a fair amount of carbon buildup there. Had trouble passing smog test twice before. Should I pay to replace the cat and O2 sensor, betting that this might fix the problem? Or will the carbon deposits and bad compression force me to need a new motor regardless?

Answer: Before you spend money on a rebuilt engine, we would suggest scanning the computer for fault codes. Replacing the catalytic converter and the oxygen sensor on a 10-year-old car would be a very good idea. The compression numbers, although not ideal, are not that bad.

Question: 1995 Isuzu Truck 2.3 mileage: 125,000. Blew the head gasket (cooked it because of bad thermostat). Tore everything down, got the head milled, put everything back together. Now it won't start! Timing belt is absolutely on correctly. Vein on dist. points towards #1 and I put #1 @ TDC every time I try. Getting frustrating, I build Chevy racecars and feel like a real dummy for not being able to figure this one out! I really appreciate any help. If you could write to my email, it'd be great cuz I'm @ school and I can't bookmark this page. Matt

Answer: Well, seems time to go back to basics. Check the compression, check for the proper amount of fuel and spark at the right time.

Question: 1996 Isuzu Rodeo 3.2L V6 mileage: 65,000. My wife was driving her '96 Rodeo 3.2L V6 and the speedometer quit working. Oddly enough, the CHECK ENGINE light came on about 2 minutes later. When she restarted the CHECK ENGINE indicator came on immediately. I pulled the ECM fuse to reset the computer and drove the car for a few minutes. The CHECK ENGINE light did not come on, but the speedometer still doesn't work. Should I be thinking loose connection (already looked and didn't find any), faulty ECM, or the unlikely coincidence of speedometer failure combined with failure of another component that would trigger CHECK ENGINE?

Answer: Your computer needs information from the speedometer signal to properly manage the engine. When your speedometer quite working, the check engine light did what it was supposed to do. You need to get the speedometer working again and then clear the codes from the computer.

Question: 1997 Isuzu Rodeo 3.2L V6 mileage: 50,000. I would like to change the automatic transmission fluid in my vehicle (I am familiar with the procedure on older vehicles) but on my Isuzu the transmission is a sealed unit. It has an overfill and drain plug. I drained approximately 3 quarts and filled it with about the same amount through the overfill hole so the best I was able to do was a partial change (total capacity = 9.1qts). I have searched everywhere for information on how to service this type of transmission (4L30-E) to no avail. Regardless of whether or not it is supposed to be serviced at 100,000+ miles I would rather change oil than change a transmission. How do you change the oil on this type of transmission? The service manual I have gives no specifics.

Answer: This type of transmission does not require service. The manufacturers have used a type of transmission oil that does not break down and consequently does not require changing.

Question: 1997 Isuzu Rodeo 3.2L V6 mileage: 95,000. I am having a problem with my fan/blower. I can tell that the air is hot when using the heater and cold when using the AC, but the fan will not blow. I checked the fuse and also changed it and it still doesn't work.

Answer: Check for 12-volts at the blower motor. If 12 volts is present, replace the blower motor. If not, check for a faulty relay or fan switch.

Question: 1993 Isuzu Rodeo 3.2 mileage: 131,000. While driving today the fuel pump fuse blew. I replaced it and went on my way. Got in later and after a few seconds of running the engine quit. This time there was no bad fuse and the relay checks. No trigger voltage to fuel pump relay, though. Even supplying current to fuel pump with jumper, no start. Trigger comes directly from ECM. ECM fuse and relay are fine. Bad ECM? Auto cut off for wrecks. Help....

Answer: Check your fuel pump as it may be failing and be the cause of the initial fuse burn out.

Question:  93 Isuzu/Rodeo 3.2v6 mileage: 107,000.  Rear passenger side door won't unlock.  I know I need to remove the interior door panel to check and fix the latch mechanism, but since I can't open the door, I can't remove the panel.  I'm thinking that I have to remove the entire door from the frame, so I can then remove the panel.  But I'm not sure that if I unbolt the hinges from the frame, the door will unlatch.  Am I on the right track?  Any other innovative ideas?

Answer:    Instead of removing the door, try using a tool known as a “Slim Jim” to slide down inside of the door to unlock the mechanism.  Most tow truck drivers have this type of tool to be used when people lock their keys in the car.

Question:  1997 Isuzu Rodeo V6 mileage: 62,654.  My dash board lights are blown out, must I remove the old dash? Should I look for a fuse or a bulb; can you help me see my dash at night? 

Answer:  The chances of all the dash light bulbs failing at once are extremely remote.  More than likely a fuse has blown or the headlight switch dimmer switch has failed.

Question:  1994 Isuzu-Impulse mileage: 74,000.  Hello: I am asking this question for my husband, who is at his wits end.  The clutch went out on his SUV, and he put in a new one.   He got it all lined up, back in, and bled the system.  However, for some reason, when he tested it, and pushed in the clutch, it goes all the way down to the floor; but won't come back up.  He now is getting ready to have the car towed and worked on because he can't figure it out.  I'm afraid that this problem may be easily fixed, and we are about to dole out more $ on something that maybe can be easily remedied.  We've already lost hundreds of $ having this SUV worked on by mechanics who did "not" do the work that they were contracted do on many of their customer's vehicles....  They are all in jail; but we lost our $, and if this is easily fixed, I'd sure like to avoid spending more $.  PLEASE!  can you help?!?!?!?

Answer:  Without seeing and inspecting your car, it is difficult to diagnose your problem.  We are guessing that you still have air in the hydraulic system for the clutch.  If possible pull the clutch pedal back up by hand and gently pump it a few times to see if you can get some of the air out.  Also, inspect the system for loose connections that may be losing hydraulic fluid.   One other thing, push the clutch pedal down and at the same time have someone check to see if the clutch slave cylinder moves.   If it does move, then you have problems with the clutch assembly itself.

Question:  1990 Isuzu pickup 4x4 2.6 mileage: 146,000.  It is in great shape. Recently when slowing down for a stop, push clutch in and idle speed picks up and then goes down 3 times before becoming stable.  Sometimes goes from 800 rpm to 1500 rpm.  Have replaced plugs, cap, filters, wires, O�, and scanned computer with no error codes.  Cleaned throttle body.  Checked for vacuum leaks.  Posted this on a newsgroup and at least 4 other people have had the same problem.  Suspect a sensor, but not sure how to tell.

Answer:  Check the EGR valve to see that it is closed at idle.  Check for a vacuum leak in the power brake booster.  Check for a plugged catalytic converter.  Check for leaking fuel injectors.

Question:  1994 Isuzu Amigo the cheap one?  mileage: 54,850.  I have a 1994 Isuzu ...for the past 2 weeks it has, every once in awhile ‘sputtered’, now it does it all the time, especially after driving it awhile and more so, going up hills.   It does not seem to do it as bad when I get low on gas...of course, everyone has an opinion.  It’s the fuel filter, timing belt, oxygen sensor.etc...the best advice I've received so far is to take the #$^@& thing in, but I'm afraid of getting ripped off because I am female (please help.  (Oh yeah, 'sputtering' isn't the best description; more like um...it bucks and looses power?)  I don't know how to describe it.  Anyway there ya go.

Answer:  Your car is equipped with a computer controlled engine management system.  An independent auto service center can scan your computer for fault or error codes.  The information should pinpoint the malfunctioning components.   Also, perform a fuel pump pressure and amp draw test.

Answer:    The speedometer drive gear is located in the tail housing of the transmission.  It is held in with one or possibly two bolts.
 

Question:  1993 Isuzu rodeo  mileage: 107,000.  I recently took the transmission with the transfer case out to change the clutch in my wife’s rodeo.  I put a new pilot bearing in, rear main, had the two-step flywheel turned, put in the new clutch, pressure plate-with attached throw out bearing, lined the clutch with an alignment tool and then was ready to put in the transmission and transfer case assembly.  The problem is that I could not get the transmission-transfer case to go back where it came.  I do not own a transmission jack and used two jacks to support it.  I had the transmission only an inch away but cannot seem to get it into place.   I tried putting it in gear and turning the spline hoping it would slide in or line up with the top pins where the motor is but I could not get the friggin thing to do what I wanted it to.  I have never experienced such a pain in the butt job as this one.   I even made sure the pilot bearing fit on the shaft before putting it in.  I also tried lifting and lowering the motor but the transmission transfer case would not go in!  One of the problems is that it is so lop sided--and heavy that you cannot shift it easy to where you want it. I would be forever grateful if you could give me some avenues to work with and or some tricks or methods I could try to get this thing back together!  I could have changed my motor twice in the time I have been working on this.  You guys were recommended as the ones that may be able to give me some advice. Thank you for considering my question.

Answer:    Assuming you took the new clutch disk and slipped it onto the input shaft of the transmission making sure the splines were correct, remove the transfer case from the transmission.  With the transfer case separated from the transmission, the reinstallation of the transmission will be much easier.  Once the transmission is close to being installed, use extra-long bell housing bolts to aid in the alignment of the transmission.  Do not use the bolts to draw the transmission into place.  After the transmission is bolted up securely, reattach the transfer case.

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