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Repair Questions and Answers
Question:
1997 Hyundai Elantra mileage: 115,000. Ok my
Hyundai Elantra was not treated as well as it should
have been. I believe the one of the cylinder
piston skirts cracked. It was time for a new
engine. My mates and I pulled out the old one.
Placed in a reconditioned engine... much better. But.
Initially the timing was retarded too far and therefore
the engine backfired. I drove about 100 mikes with
the engine like this. I got my hands on a timing
light and was just about to tune it when the CHECK
ENGINE light came on. My manual says that
this indicates a problem with the exhaust system.
I cannot detect any such problem and the engine appears
to be working perfectly (Once I fixed the timing).
What do I need to fix? Did the backfiring just fry
some environmental circuit? I have heard third
hand of an Excel having the same light turn on, nothing
wrong with it. Kept on going for years. Any
help would be appreciated.
Answer:
The light can be extinguished and fault codes cleared by
disconnecting the battery for several minutes. If
there is a malfunctioning sensor or switch, it will
relight the light. The “check engine” light
will “light” when there is a malfunction in the engine
management system. The fault code is then stored
in the computer.
With a
pocket scanner
you can scan your computer and check for fault codes to
find out why the light came on in the first place. You
can clear your cars
trouble
codes
after you make the needed repairs.
Question: 2001 Hyundai Accent - Mileage:
65,000. While turning to the right, the steering wheel is
soft and effortless but while tuning to the left it is a
little harder (as compared to right). I checked the
power steering and wheel alignment. They are OK. What
could be the problem? Due to this problem, the car tends
to move to the right gradually while driving. Therefore,
you need to hold the steering wheel firmly so that it
does not go to the right. At
first, I thought it might be
alignment and tire pressure problems. I even
interchanged the front tires,
which have lessened the effect,
but it is not gone 100%.
Answer: Besides having the wheel alignment
checked, have the entire front suspension inspected for
bent or broken components. If there is nothing broken or
bent, you probably have a faulty valve in the power
steering rack.
Question: 1997 Hyundai Elantra mileage:
80,000. For the past two weeks since having my car
serviced (grease and oil change) I have noticed a
surging/losing power problem. Initially the problem was
when I was just beginning to accelerate from stop, then
the pattern changed to running ok when I first drove the
car say 5km to the supermarket and then when I came to
drive home it would surge/lose power/buck after a period
of the car stopped for 20 minutes. After noticing this
pattern, I repeated it and the fault happened again. The
car is an automatic and I have had an automatic
transmission service, had the coil replaced and the air
flow meter replaced as this was the only code the
testing equipment showed. After the new air flow meter,
the pattern changed again to playing up intermittently
and today the mechanic experienced the problem driving
with the testing equipment attached and it showed no
codes. I normally drive it in overdrive and economy and
the mechanic thought it might be cycling in and out of
overdrive but it still plays up with the overdrive off.
The mechanics are stumped and are contemplating a
problem in the onboard computer. I have noticed it is
using more petrol than before. Up until this problem, I
have never had anything go wrong with the car and it has
not lost a drop of oil or water in the six years I have
had it. It has had all its book services. Prior to the
service, the car somehow picked up a bit of plastic on
the road and it is melted to the outside of the exhaust.
This is why I took it for a service in the first place.
Now I am wishing I never took it to the garage at all,
as the car ran fine before it and played up after but
the garage assumes no responsibility for causing it and
says it is just coincidence. I have also had the
catalytic converter checked and that is clear. Do you
have any other ideas as to the cause of the problem? I
have already spent over $1200 testing mechanics theories
and don't want to spend anymore dead money. I would
appreciate any help you can give me.
Answer:
First, check the exhaust where the plastic melted. It is
possible that there is wiring damage to the oxygen
sensor. If you find no problem there, you may have a
failing fuel pump and/or plugged fuel filter.
Question: 1999 Hyundai Accent GSI
1.5 mileage: 49,000. My Check engine light comes on
intermittently. It will come on for a couple of hours or
for a day but then goes out. There is no performance
loss or any obvious problems with the vehicle. Is there
a way to check what is causing this without returning to
the dealer?
Answer: Yes there is. Any vehicle
service center that has an OBDII scanner can scan your
vehicle and identify the stored fault codes.
With a
pocket scanner
you can scan your computer and check for fault codes
yourself. These scanners are very easy to use and work
on all cars 1996 and newer.
Question: 1991 Hyundai Excel
mileage: 75,000. The fuel pump in my Excel went out so
it was replaced. It still won't start. There's no power
to the fuel pump when the ignition switch is on, but
when it is at start position there is power to the fuel
pump. Are there any inline fuses to the fuel pump that
could be the problem, and if so where are they located?
There is no power coming from the computer to tell the
electrical circuit to run the fuel pump. The electrical
circuit has also been replaced.
Answer: There is a good chance that
the 12-volt power to your fuel pump is working properly.
It is normal for the computer to not have power to the
pump when the key is on and the engine is not running.
In the start position the computer signals the pump to
run. Once the computer knows the engine has started, it
will continue power to the fuel pump. As to why your car
will not start, check for spark at the spark plugs and
check for compression. Also, check the timing belt.
Question: 1991 Excel 1500 mileage:
130,000. The fuel pump is not working, are there other
(simple) faults worth checking out before removing the
fuel tank and replacing the fuel pump.
Answer: Yes. Check for 12 volts to
the pump. If there is 12 volts to the pump and it is not
running, then the pump is faulty.
Question: 1995 Hyundai Elantra
mileage: 62,000. My brothers '95 Elantra quit running,
when we pulled off the upper timing belt cover, we could
see the timing belt, when he turned the car over we
could see that the belt was not moving, the belt was not
loose and did not appear to be broken (at least not from
the view that we had from the upper timing belt cover).
Question: does this sound as though the timing belt has
broken, and if so I have read, that if these Hyundai
motors do break a timing belt, that the piston will hit
the valves causing severe engine damage. Do you think
that may be what we're looking at, and if so can you
tell me approximately how much we are looking at to do
the necessary repairs?
Answer: The timing belt has failed.
What you are seeing are the results of the teeth
shearing off of the inside of the belt. The valves may
or may not be bent. Try replacing the belt and doing a
compressions check. If the compression check is okay,
the valves are not bent. If they are bent, it is
difficult to estimate costs of repairs without knowing
the extent of the damage. Your best bet is to check with
several different mechanics to get an idea of the cost.
Question: 2000 Hyundai Sonata
mileage: 97,000. OK every time I stop to fill up with gas
and shut the car off, once I am done pumping and try to
start the car it won't start! I have to ride the gas
pedal for a little to keep it from stalling out. If I
leave the car running while I pump gas it is fine. Just
wondering what that could be to it only when I pump gas.
It's starting to be a hassle! I bought it brand new and
it always done this. I hate taking to the dealer because
half time they don't what to FIX or where the part is
that they ordered! Already had the radio replaced and it
still comes in and out while I drive!
Answer: Check the vapor recovery
system for the fuel tank. There must be a valve stuck or
hanging up causing raw fuel to be drawn into the engine.
Question: 1993 Hyundai Elantra. Just
recently I discovered that my brake lights will not turn
off. When I lift the brake (from underneath) just a
little, the lights will turn off. But, when the brake is
left in the normal resting position, the lights stay on.
Is it possible that the spring that pulls that the brake
up while not in use is worn out and that there is not
enough tension to pull it high enough to where the
lights won't turn on? If so, do I need to order that
part from my dealer?
Answer: It sounds as if the brake
light switch needs to be adjusted. It is located on the
brake pedal leakage up under the dash.
Question:
1999 Hyundai Elantra. I had an accident and want
to know how to reset the air bag safety switch so that I
can start the car...?
Answer:
The air bag control module is located behind the rear
console. We do not know if it has a reset
switch or button.
Question:
1993 Hyundai Elantra GLS 1800 mileage: 52,000.
Excuse me!! I am from Costa Rica, and I don’t know how
to write my question in English, then, I will write it
in Spanish. I hope, you can answer me soon! El
auto enciende la luz de batería en el tablero, y le
cambié el alternador. Después de 1 semana, la volvió a
encender, y ahora está siempre encendida. Que puedo
hacer? Será necesario cambiar el regulador de
corriente del alternador nuevamente?
Answer: We have a rudimentary
understanding of Spanish so here is our best shot, first
in English then in Spanish: From what you
tell us, it sounds like you may be having trouble with
your charging system. Have your battery load
tested and check the alternator output for voltage and
amperage. The voltage regulator is part of the
alternator. Both should be replaced at the same
time as a unit. De lo que usted nos dice, suena
como usted puede tener apuro con su sistema de carga.
Tenga su carga de la batería probada y controle el
alternador hecho salir para saber si hay voltaje y
amperaje. El regulador de voltaje es parte del
alternador. Ambos se deben substituir al mismo
tiempo que una unidad.
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