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Honda Accord Repair Questions
Question: 2002 Honda Accord
Mileage: 57,000. Being adventurous and
persistent, I decided to replace my own
timing belt...I just finished today. I was
very careful to line up all the marks, and I
was ecstatic when the car actually started
after I put everything back together. But I
have a check engine light that is on that
doesn't remove itself with the simple
negative battery cable removal trick, and
the car runs great...until the motor speed
gets to 3000 rpm where it bounces in a range
of 2750 to 3250 rpm, independent of how much
gas I apply. I have taken the valve cover
gasket off to check the marks on the cam to
make sure that they line up with the
crank...and they both look perfect. I'm
pretty sure the balance shafts are correct
as well...I was very careful. Could I have
damaged something to cause this problem? Is
the car so old that "correct/factory timing"
is off and I should adjust for that? Please
help if you can...btw, this car doesn't have
adjustable spark timing, as far as I know.
Answer: Initially, scan the computer
for fault codes. You cannot reset the check
engine light by the “negative battery cable
technique.” Your car is too new. As for the
fluctuating engine speed, triple check the
timing belt alignment
Question:
2001 Honda Accord mileage: 69,500.
The Honda is an automatic. When I put
the car in reverse and hold my foot on the
brake the car vibrates badly. It does
not do this in drive however. Could
you tell me what the problem might be?
Thank you
Answer:
We think you may have some bad motor mounts.
Question:
1999 Honda Accord
mileage: 105,000. Before I got the car,
someone replaced the timing belt. My
customer was driving it when the crankshaft
pulley came off; that is when we got the car
to fix so we put it all back together got it
timed and it will crank but will not start.
We have spark and fuel going to the plugs
cause we took them out and laid them on top
of spark plug hole and they ignited don’t
know what else to do any help will be
appreciated. Thanks Jim
Answer:
If you have spark and fuel, check the
compression.
Question:
1996 Honda Accord mileage: 163,000.
Hi, I'm having a problem with my car
chugging and stalling out after 40 miles of
driving. It'll be running fine, then
suddenly start chugging like it's not
getting enough gas. I can press the
gas to keep it going only for a little while
until the problem occurs again. When I
stop the car and let it sit for a minute,
it's fine for a couple more miles until it
starts chugging again and eventually stalls,
with total lack of power. It occurs in
both the city and on the highway. I'm
just afraid I'll accidentally blow up the
engine on of these times. I've
spent $300 thus far trying to find the
solution and nothing has worked. I've
had both fuel filters and the oxygen sensor
replaced. Since it is fuel injected
could it be something in the fuel line?
None of the mechanics where I live seems to
know what is going on with it, and I'm not
rich enough to continue having them tinker
with it. I've put in some fuel and
engine cleaner to see if any of the lines
were clogged, but I haven't driven it much
since then. I would like to know any
and all possible causes since I do drive my
car a lot and do drive more than 40 miles at
a crack. Please help! I've got a
200-mile drive in front of me, and I need my
car to take me further than 40 miles at a
time! Please e-mail me back
ASAP!
Answer:
Intermittent problems are difficult to
locate. Several things we would check
would be the fuel pump, ignition coil and
possibility excessive wear in the
distributor.
Question:
1998 Honda Accord mileage: 94,000. My
car just quit running. I can turn it over
but it won't start. I have a new
timing belt so it isn't that. We
pulled a spark plug wire, put a screwdriver
in it, and tried to start it. It isn't
getting any spark. Help please.
Thanks.
Answer:
Your symptoms would indicate that the “new”
timing belt may not be so new any more
because a faulty timing belt would not drive
the distributor. Thus, no spark. If
the timing belt is okay, it could be that
the distributor itself is faulty, a Honda
weak link.
Question:
1997 Honda Accord mileage: 170,000.
Okay, where do I start first? Well, the car
wasn't running to great and wouldn't run at
all if you had less than a half of a tank of
gas. My husband dropped the gas tank,
cleaned it out and replaced the fuel pump.
It ran great for a couple of drives and then
suddenly wouldn't start again.
We then replaced the relay. Again, it
ran great for a few rides and then wouldn't
start again. We didn't hear the
pump kick on when we were starting it so
thought maybe we got a bad pump. We
replaced that and the car ran great this
time for a couple of days. Now it
won't start again! We really don't
have the money to take it in to Honda do you
have any advise? THANK YOU!
Answer:
You must determine if your engine will not
start because of lack of fuel or lack of
spark. If fuel is the problem, check
the fuel pump, pressure etc. If no
spark, check the coil, distributor, 12 volts
to the coil, etc.
Question:
1999 Honda Accord mileage: 141,000.
Hello Bob & Ken, My Accord has developed a
problem. At a constant speed, the
speedometer will start fluctuating.
It will drop to zero. Then the
transmission sensor light starts flashing
and the speedometer go back to normal.
The car seems to run fine. I took it
to my mechanic within the first week, but he
could not identify the problem. I hope
you can give me some insight and estimated
costs of repair.
Answer:
A faulty signal generator in the
transmission may be the cause of your
problem.
Question:
1997 Honda Accord mileage: 172,000. I
was driving my car on the highway and lost
all power when i pushed on the gas pedal.
A light on the dash came on. The dash
light had the letters prm fi. I pulled
to the side of the road and shut the car
off. I restarted the car and
everything worked fine for another 20 mile
and the same problem occurred. What
could it be? I hope you can help.
Thank you for your time.
Answer:
Scan your computer for trouble codes and
also check the distributor for excessive
wear.
Question:
1995 Honda Accord mileage: 150,000. I
have two different books on my 85 Accord,
and both are very vague on how to get an
alternator out of the car. I have the
alternator disconnected. I just can't
seem to get it out of the car, neither
through the top or bottom. I have
taken off the driver side front wheel,
pulled the rotor off the steering knuckle,
etc. I've tried to make room, but
nothing. Do I have to drop the engine?
Answer:
Removing the drivers side axle assembly
should give you room to get the alternator
out.
Question:
2000
Honda Accord LX mileage: 96,000.
While driving automatic transmission stopped
working. Turned car off for two
minutes and it started working again for a
few minutes Have to repeatedly turn motor
off for a few minutes to get transmission to
"Catch". Was driven less than 10 miles
after problem started. Now in shop.
I believe it is a clogged filter but I am
told this transmission is a sealed unit.
Is it a sealed unit? This requires
entire unit to be pulled from car and
disassembled. Suggestions for course
of action. At transmission shop now
but don't want to be charged for unnecessary
work. Please Help....
Answer: The
transmission shop is right; it is a sealed
unit. There is no transmission “pan”
that can be removed.
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