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Question: 1999 Honda Accord  mileage 85,000. Today when I was driving to work I had the AC on. After a while of being stuck in traffic I shut off the AC since it was really cold inside the car. After 5 minutes of stop and go traffic, I looked down to my board and saw the temperature needle rising tours the hot area. I immediately stopped and pop my hood. I noticed that for some reason the cooling fan were not working. I went back to the car and shot off the engine. As soon as I took the key out the cooling fan started working. Then I put the car in switch and the cooling fan stopped working again. I then waited for the car to cool off. I then started the car again and turn on the AC. After this both cooling fans started working. I then shut off the AC and left the car running. After 3 minutes the car started overheating again and I repeated the same operation. Turn on the AC and the fans started working. Shut off the AC and left the car running and it started overheating again. The cooling fans at no point came on. I then shut off the car and the fan started working. I checked the cooling fan fuse and it's ok. I then checked the cooling fan relay under the hood since I have had the same exact problem with an 1989 Accord LX-I I had own previously and it ended up being the cooling fan relay. The power window relay and the cooling fan are exactly the same. I swapped relays just to se if the problem could off been the relay but not even with the relay swap the fans worked. After I swap the relays I started the car again and let it run and it started overheating again. I put the relays back where they belonged and just drove off to work with the AC on.

Answer: You probably have a temperature sensor that has failed. This can be verified by scanning the computer.

Question: 1997 Honda Accord LX  mileage:170,000 We purchased a used Honda about a year ago for my daughter. One meticulous previous owner with a little black book with all records kept it in great condition. About 2 months ago, the battery light went on and then her car went dead. We jumped it a few times and got it in for a check. It was the alternator. I had it replaced. Less than a month later, the battery light went on, and it was the alternator again. The parts distributor replaced and even reimbursed 1/2 of the mechanic's fee. They checked the battery, and it was fine when I had the service done and the new alternator put in. Again today, the light went on. It has only been two weeks! What in the world is happening? I am afraid to let her drive it. Other than that, the only thing I have had replaced was the ignition switch in January. I am embarrassed to go back to the parts distributor...they really have been great, but in the meantime I'm wasting a ton of money on mechanic's fees.

Answer: We suspect that you are getting faulty alternators in view of the fact that you have had to replace two of them in the last month. Load test the battery and then check the electrical system for drains and also for poor ground connections.

Question: 1998 Honda Accord  mileage: 157,000. What conditions would short the voltage regulator inside the alternator and at the same time blow the headlights, interior lights, dash clock and damage the radio? The reason I ask is that after I got my car back from the body shop from collision to right front of vehicle (passenger side - battery side) they claim the electrical problems I now have were not a result of the accident since the battery tray was not damaged? Does not sound right to me. After further investigation the battery left cell was either shorted or somewhere inside there is a break thereby making it "open circuit". Would the damage to the voltage regulator have happened during the impact or during the trip home after the accident? Currently the alternator is punching out 18V. A little insight here would be appreciated.

Answer:  Check the wiring harnesses for damage, especially the ground wires. Also, have the battery load tested to be sure there is not a shorted cell inside. 18-volts from the alternator is too high. This may be due to a missing ground wire or a faulty internal voltage regulator.

Question: 2000 Honda Accord  mileage: 77,000. I have a Honda Accord 5 speed, When I put it in any gear and let out the clutch it feels like the emergency brake is on, but its not, the car wants to move to the point that I can smell the clutch burn even in reverse. It almost feels like it is between gears, but if I put the car in neutral it will move forward. When I let the clutch out it feels like it may be in first gear. I've checked under the car and the shift linkage shaft moves to the left and to the right and in and out on the trans when the shifter is moved. Can you help me? I tried your archives and found nothing that even comes close to my question.

Answer: It appears from your description that your transmission has internal problems with the shift linkage allowing it to be in two gears at the same time. We would remove the transmission and check for worn-out shift levers and rods.

Question: 2001 Honda Accord  mileage: 98,500. My Accord started running bad, I did a leak down test on it to find no compression in the #1 cylinder. I've taken the head off to find a burnt exhaust valve. Should I have the head sent out to have it magnifluxed or am I ok to go back together just lapping the valve in. The head looks good, no other burnt valves, really clean. One more thing, they say the price on the head gasket is $80. This seems awful high to me. I appreciate your time in this matter.

Answer: In your situation, we grind all the valves and valve seats. We check the valve guides for wear and replace all the valve stem seals and the head resurfaced. If your engine has been overheated or if you are concerned, have the head checked for cracks.

Answer: With the engine running, check for 14 to 14½ volts at the battery. Check the fuseable links and check the auto shutdown relay.

Question: 1999 Honda Accord mileage: 80,000. My speedometer started failing some time ago. It would jump to 20 mph and shake a little around it when I drive slow, then just stay there when I speed up. It recovers sometimes and shows the right speed. If I kick the daily miles reset button a few times, it starts working occasionally. It also often kicks in when I drive longer on a highway. Is this the speedometer, the wiring or the speed sensor? How to fix it?

Answer: Sounds like you have a weak signal generator for the speedometer. Replacing it should fix your problem.

Question: 2002 Honda Accord  56,000. I have a same problem as listed in another posting, on cold start the car goes into fast idle mode and after a minute the idle starts to jump between 1,500 rpm and 1,800 rpm. I've been trying to fix this for a year. I've replaced the O2 sensor and PVC valve as you told the other poster to do. I've also replaced the Air Temp sensor (TA), Water Temp sensor (TW). I've stumped the dealership, as they find nothing wrong. I even replaced the fast idle valve and EACV! The engine has been tuned and I have no clue what else to do? After the engine is warm, everything is great and runs really well and car is like new after constantly doing the service on time.

Answer: You have replaced most everything we can think of that could be causing your fast idle problem. At this point, the data stream from the engine to the computer should be read to determine the values of the various sensors on the car. In addition, check to see if the ground wires are properly attached and making good connections.

Question: 1999 Honda Accord. After I inadvertently replaced the spark plug wires in reverse order 4321 instead of 1234, and trying to start the car a couple of times, I correctly placed them in order. The car started fine, but then the engine check light turned on. I've disconnected the battery for a few minutes to perhaps de-latch a computer lock, but it remains lit. I've also noticed that the engine tends to idle close to 1200 rpm. According to the owner's manual, the light indicates a fuel injection problem. What could be causing the light to remain on and how can it be shut off. According to one mechanic, the 1989 Accord has no diagnostic code output.

Answer: The O² sensor needs to be replaced. It was burned out during the no start and consequently flooded the oxygen sensor with raw gasoline.

Question: 1999 Honda Accord  mileage: 77,315 I need to know, if you sell the clutch, with everything (three pieces), and also the Idle-control solenoid-value. My car makes a sound when I turn it on. When the car is cold, the idle-control solenoid-value, goes as if, is going to turn off. If is possible, please tell me the prices, if you sell part, and also tell me what you think. Julio

Answer: There are several Internet sites that sell auto parts, we recommend www.eautopartstore.com. By the way, when you replace the clutch, the flywheel should be resurfaced.
 

Question: 2003 Honda/Accord/EX V6 mileage: 60,000. The ABS light stays on after 30 sec or so. This happened before and the problem went away after I added some Brake Fluid to the ABS reservoir. Now it happens every time I start my car. The Honda dealer told me there was an error code #1 for leaking modulator and suggested a replacement of my ABS module for $1000. I am pretty sure the leaking they were talking about was due to the spillage of my brake fluid. I suspect a bad wiring or sensor. Thanks in advance.

Answer: You may have a faulty sensor on one of the wheels or damaged wiring that goes to the sensor. If all checks okay, you may have a bad ABS module.

Question: 2005 Honda Accord LX V4 mileage: 19,000. Dear Two Car Pros, I need some help with my car's air conditioning. It is dripping out water onto the floor matt of the front driver side, and it is leaking out a lot of water onto the floor matt of the front passenger side (a lot). Both floor mats stay dry as long as the air conditioner is not on. I do not know very much about cars, and I was wondering if this was a common fluke (because it has been very hot lately and the air conditioner has been on full blast), or if it is a problem that I should have fixed. If it is a problem I was wondering about how much it would cost to fix, or if it is something that even I might be able to fix myself.

Answer: There should be a drain line on the bottom of the air-conditioning unit that is under the dash. The drain line should drain the condensate water out through a tube to the outside of the car. Yours is probably plugged.

Question: 1999 Honda Accord.  This morning I had to replace a tire due to a slow leak.  The mechanic suggested that I replace 2 because they did not carry the same brand.  I told them to go ahead and replace only the one for now.   How will this affect my handling?  Is it really important that I have a second tire replaced?

Answer: Assuming the tire you replaced is the same and type as all the others, it should have very little effect on handling.

Question: 1997 Honda Accord  mileage: 104,000.  I have had trouble with the engine pinging since day 1.  I have had a rebuilt carburetor put in, the timing checked constantly, the mixture adjusted and nothing helps.  It pings a lot under load such as going up a hill or accelerating quickly.  I have had a couple different mechanics look at it, but they couldn't find a problem.  Any suggestions you can give me are greatly appreciated.  Thank you for your time.

Answer: Check the EGR valve to be sure it is opening.  One of the functions of the valve is to stop engine pinging at the mid rpm range.

Question: 1998 Honda Accord mileage: 99,000. with Manual transmission.  The problem is that when I accelerate with the pedal about One quarter on the way down to full throttle it will start to hesitate.   Now this hesitation is like one of the cylinders is not firing.  Which could be possibly true.  But this does not happen all of the time.  Which is becoming irritating.  Sometimes it could do it when you startup and then for a while it wont do it.  I have replaced the spark plus and wires.  Have checked the fuel injectors with an ohm meter and they checked out o.k.   Because all of them have the same reading.   This is the weirdest thing that my dad has come a crossed too.  He has been a mechanic for about twenty years.  I have heard that it could be an EGR Valve problem, but I think I checked it out right and IT was fine.  Another thing we checked was distributor cap and the rotor.  Is there a temp gauge that could be bad?  I don't know what else this could be.  If you could be of any help, it would be great.  Thank You

Answer: Your problem sounds like a faulty distributor, Honda’s Achilles heel.

Question: 1999 Honda Accord mileage: 117,000 My Accord has an automatic transmission 4 cylinder I bought this car recently, there was no problem now all of the sudden when I start it up it starts shaking when driving or when giving gas. I have change oil, then change cable, spark plugs. fist it started working fine, but after 15 20 mile driving it has the same problem. Then I talked to a mechanic and he suggested that it might need head gasket valve seal cover changed. Because we found the first plug on the left with some oil in it. In that cylinder we had no oil when we first change the plug after driving a lil bit oil comes in that cylinder and also from muffler there is white smoke.
So can you tell me what could it be?
Thanks

Answer: I am going to take what you offer for description and run with it. I would like to start with the white smoke. First of all, the white stuff coming out the tailpipe is water vapor. That points to a head gasket. In order to get to the head you must take off the valve cover(s). You have a seal or two going out on the plug wells. That is the way I see the issue as per your comments.

I would like to add that the shaking is probably the vehicle not running correctly. I would venture that one of the plugs is cracked or a plug wire is bad. Also given the water vapor coming from the exhaust, one of the plugs or more is also tasked to boil water and therefore is not able to fully take care of the job of igniting gas. Further, let me add that there is possibly another issue here. What caused the engine to overheat and take out the head gasket? You should be looking in to that as well. I suspect a leak in the cooling system is present and responsible for this.

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