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Question:  1997 Geo Prism  mileage: 189,000.  Driving the other day experienced a sudden loss of power associated with a clacking noise.   Pulled timing belt cover all appears well, but after pulling the valve, cover (loose, lousy gasket allowed some blow by and leakage) found plugs 1 & 3 high and dry – 2 & 45 drowning in oil.  Where do I go next?

Answer: We think that you may be having internal engine problems.  Do a compression check; also, verify that the cam rotates when the engine is turned over.  There is a remote chance that you may have a piston failure.   A piston failure would account for the oil in the spark plugs that you described. 

Question: 1990 Geo Metro 1.0 mileage: 139,000.  Will not start when cold. Did complete tune-up, changed coolant sensor, no codes when checked, cleaned fuel injectors and throttle body, checked fuel pressure.  Sometimes will start but only once in a great while.  Seems like it floods itself out.  Does not idle up when cold or when headlights are on when it does happen to start

Answer:  Your hard start problems may be caused by a faulty fuel pressure regulator.

Question: 1997 Geo Metro mileage: 167,000.  Thank you for your service; I have an important question regarding a "stuck" spark plug on a Geo Metro.  I recently had an alternator replaced on my Geo and the mechanic said he had replaced the sparkplug wires as it still was not running right.  He says that he was unable to remove one of the plugs so now the car is running on only 2 cylinders!  Of course, it runs very rough and has trouble starting in our cold Iowa weather.  I need your suggestions on how to remove this plug and replace it myself as he says it will cost about $300.  More to remove the head and remove the stuck spark plug!  I do not know if a Metro with that many miles is worth 600 to 700 dollars.   I have depended on this car for over four years and am sick thinking a plug could cost that much more.  Any Ideas to help me out?  I will be checking your web page for your response or you could mail me.  Thanks!

Answer:  You need to check with your local mechanics to find someone that can remove the old spark plug and if the threads are damaged, which they probably will be, a good mechanic will be able to repair the strip threads in the head.  All this should be able to be done without removing the head.

Question: 1997 Geo Prism  mileage: 120,000.  Today was the first wet freeze of the winter (Windsor, Ont.)  Both the brake and charge warning lights lit and stayed lit.  I would have thought the alternator was gone except the brake warning light is puzzling me.  I do not detect any headlight dimming or other signs of running off the battery - but it is a new battery with a great charge.  A friend suggested a moisture problem.  I suspect the alternator.  I think the alternator is original.  Thanks for your help.

Answer: Check the voltage and amperage output of the alternator.  Load test the battery.

Question: 1996 Geo Prism  mileage: 130,000.   My car seems to be overheating a lot.  I think the fan is damaged because this doesn't seem to be coming on as well and I think that this might be the reason.  First question: could this also be the thermostat?  Second question: is this expensive to repair?  Third question: how long should I allow this work to be completed?  One day?  Fourth question: Could this be expensive?

Answer: The thermostat does not control the fan.  There is a temperature sensor and relay that control it.  Also, check the fan motor, it may have failed.  All this should be able to be done in one day.  The cost will vary depending on what is replaced.

Question:  1995 Geo Prism mileage: 75,000.   My 1990 Geo Storm will not always want to turn on, when I turn the ignition switch.  It wants to turn over, but will not.  It generally takes about 10-15 minutes of me trying to turn it on, before it finally does.  Some days, it turns on the first attempt.  I've taken it in to an auto mechanic, but they cannot get it to stall.  I think it can be the fuel pump, because here lately it has been using a lot of gas.  What do you think?  If it is the fuel pump, are all fuel pumps about the same in quality?  Thanks

Answer: Your car may be ready for a major tune-up including spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, rotor, fuel filter and air filter.  Also, perform a fuel pump pressure test.  Clean fuel injection system including throttle bore, idle speed control motor and passages.  If problem still exists, scan computer for trouble codes.

Question:  1994 Geo Metro 3 cyl 108,000.  How do I replace my alternator?

Answer: First, disconnect the battery.  Next, remove wiring from the alternator.  Remove the drive belt and top and bottom bolts.  Reverse the order to reinstall.

Question:  1993 Geo Prism Lsi 1.8L mileage: 79,400. Recently I had replaced all the 3 accessory belts, along with the timing belt. (I had to get it fixed twice because the first time the independent auto shop did not put it right - I had subtle loss of power and minor vibrations while idling and then I got the timing belt done from Toyota dealer.) (The accessories belts are still from the independent auto shop) I hear like a shrill radio static or crackling of electricity (is this called pinging? I also sometimes get a very low noise like striking glass bottles.) These noises come only when I press the gas pedal between the speeds 30 and 55. (It does not come above 55) and only after driving for 20 mins. I did find that the mechanic had forgotten to connect the Air Mass Flow sensor to the Air Filter Chamber, which I promptly connected (but I still get the noise). Also, when I turn off the engine I get a short squeaking noise (again after 15-20 mins of driving.) The dealer says it seems to come from the alternator bearings. My question is: What may be the cause and cure for this problem? Can I put grease or something in the alternator bearings? Also is my oil pump working properly? (Reason for this question being - 4 weeks back my oil -lite had come on and I immediately showed it to mechanic who found a wire had come out of the oil sensor and had fixed the wire back to sensor.) Will my car run if the oil pump was not working?

Answer: From what you describe, yes, your engine is probably "pinging." Have the ignition timing checked and adjusted as necessary. Some time during your repairs, the distributor may have been moved. As to the short squeaking noise, have the belt tension checked and or adjusted. If the noise is still present, the alternator may be the cause. The bearings in the alternator may be sealed and cannot be lubricated. Will your car run with the oil pump not working? No, not for long.

Question:  1992 Geo/Metro 3 cyl mileage: 75,000. I was recently overseas for 6 months. While I was gone, I had my wife start my car once a week. Well when I got back it started right up and I was really surprised all it needed was an oil change. Then while I was driving it on my second or third day back I started feeling what seemed like the brakes were sticking. Turns out both front brakes are sticking. Thing is that they don't do it until you've been driving for ten minutes or so. Then the longer you drive the tighter they get. One time I could not get over 45 on the freeway. That’s when I figured I better really check it out. I took it to Midas because to be honest I had no idea. I am a decent mechanic but other than both calipers going out at exactly the same time, I was lost. Well the guys at Midas said there was nothing at all wrong. So I drove it home and on the way it started doing it again. By the way, I jacked each tire up individually to come up with both front brakes sticking. I talked to a couple people and tinkered a little bit and decided to get the proportioning valve from the dealer. After changing it the problem continued. Then replaced the master cylinder after taking it apart. It seemed pretty worn. Problem continues. This has really got me stumped. Even if both front calipers went out they wouldn't get tighter and tighter the longer you drove it would they? Any suggestions would be great. Thanx. Oh yeah one more thing. Midas said the fluid wasn't contaminated but even if it was after changing the prop valve and master cylinder I've bled all the old fluid out of the system.

Answer: Yes, if both brake calipers failed they would get tighter as you drove because they are getting hotter and expanding, dragging on the brake rotors. Remove both front wheels and with a pry bar move the brake pads back from the rotors. The pads should move slowly with mild force. If they do not, the caliper pistons are "frozen" in the bores. The next possibility is the brake pedal linkage may not be allowing the master cylinder to fully return, holding pressure on the brakes.

Question:  1990 geo prism, mileage: 160k. When I drive this car more than 4 miles, the needle gauge always goes to hot. A friend of mine already changed the thermostat and it still does the same thing. What other factors contribute to this problem? What should be done?

Answer: You did not mention that your car is losing coolant so we assume it is not. Does the electric fan cycle on when the temperature is up? If not check fuses, temperature sensor and relay. You may be overheating due to a partially plugged radiator. A radiator repair center can check that for you and if necessary remove and clean the radiator.

Question:  1993 Geo Metro 3 cylinder, mileage: 119,000. Changing valve stem seals, do I have to remove the head to remove the valve spring? The valve spring is not exposed its down in the head so a regular valve spring compressor cannot grab the spring. Can I push on the spring to remove it as is or do I have to remove the head to get to the seal. Is there a special tool I can use to get it out without removing the head? Trying to do it myself.

Answer: No the head does not need to be removed to replace the valve stem seals. After removing the spark plugs, apply air pressure to the cylinder of the seals to replace. This keeps the valve up while removing the springs and seals. The springs are small and can be pushed by hand or by using a pry bar.

Question:  Gentlemen, the Geo in question belongs to a friend. There is an unidentified rattle in the underbody towards the rear of the car which is not always present, but when it is it is loud as if the exhaust pipe was bumping the underbody. I replaced the exhaust system from the flanged part behind the catalytic converter and assume it is the replacement pipe, which is knocking on something. While the metal hangers on the replacement match up exactly with the rubber fittings on the car, the bends in the two are not identical. Still, this doesn't seem to impede anything. I have secured the metal hangers, which are attached to the replacement exhaust pipe with metal hose clamps on either side, but the sound is still there. It is not the same sound when I am driving; as it is, when you physically shake the pipe to make it purposely hit the underbody. It also stops if I stand behind the passenger seat. Getting out of the car and visually looking at the tailpipe, everything seems to be stable. Are there other things I should be looking at besides the exhaust? I am really frustrated because I am sure I installed the aftermarket pipe properly. Any advice is appreciated, and I appreciate the service you provide people.

Answer: (1). Check rear strut/shocks sometimes they rattle internally, (2). Check for lose or broken suspension parts or worn rubber bushings.

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