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Question:  1999 Ford Ranger mileage: 126,000.  The engine bucks and the check engine light came on.  I have a code 211 read out.  Cleared all codes now the only code is 157 MAF sensor low voltage.  998-hardcode fault confirms that it is not the ignition module. All sensors seem to check out okay.  What is more specific definition of 998? Could it be the PCM?  Or in one of the sensors? Computer seems to always go into open loop. Help please!

Answer:  Code 211 is a profile ignition pick-up that means anything in the ignition system.  Since you have eliminated the ignition module, try replacing the ignition pick-up coil.  Code 998 merely is telling you that some hard codes have been set in the computer.  A plugged catalytic converter can cause similar problems to the ones you are having.

Question:  2002 Ford Ranger  mileage: 72,000.  Whenever I drive over bumpy terrain, the front of my truck makes a squeaky sound ( like a bed).  Even when I drive over loose gravel I can feel a difference, my truck seems to be struggling.  Could you please give me an educated guess as to what this could be?

Answer: Your problem could be any number of pivot points in the front suspension, or possible shocks. More likely, the rear cab mounts are rubbing against the metal frame resulting in the noise you described.  The new cab mounts are lubricated to reduce the possibility of noise.

Question:  2001 Ford Ranger mileage: 92,000.  In trying to replace the original factory-equipped fuel filter, I could easily get the rear portion (pointed toward fuel tank) of the filter to come loose from the fuel line.   However, the front side (pointed toward the engine) slides about 1/8 inch and stops.  Repeated attempts at sliding, twisting, and even banging yield no results.  It doesn’t seem to want to budge. Is there a special retaining ring and/or tool needed to get this out, or is brute force the answer?  Thanks in advance for your help.

Answer:  Yes, there is a retaining ring that requires a special tool to remove the fuel filter.

Question:  1999 Ford Ranger Super Cab mileage: 62,000.  I had an accident about a month ago where I rolled the truck onto the passenger side into a ditch.   There was minor damage to the exterior and it peeled the front tire off the rim.  When I got it back from the body shop, I noticed that the ABS system kicked in every time that I stopped no matter what the road conditions.  It always kicks in at about 10 mph and I can feel it feed back through the pedal and I can hear the system engaging.  It has not lit the abs warning light and the Ford dealer said that there is no code in the computer to read.   They suggested driving it until it really breaks and lights the light, but the feedback is really annoying and I worry about brake failure.  Could it be a sensor/abs rotor problem on that front passenger side wheel?  Thank you for your assistance.

Answer:  Check the replaced brake rotor for a reluctor wheel that the ABS sensor reads.  The ABS system should not cause a brake failure that you mentioned.

Question:  2003 Ford Ranger mileage: 19,000.  Recently, the rear brake lights (including the third) have suddenly stopped lighting up when I step on the brakes.  The fuse looks fine and all the other lights work normally.  I don't think they all burned out together.  What should I check next?  Help, before I get rear-ended!  Thanks!

Answer: Check the brake light switch on the brake pedal linkage, because if it is not supplying 12-volts to the brake lights, the result would be the problems you describe.

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Question:  1995 Ford Ranger mileage: 140,000.  What would cause timing belt to jump a notch?

Answer:  As the timing belt wears it becomes stretched out and that can cause it to jump.

Question: 1997 Ford Ranger mileage: 61,000.  I have automatic four wheel drive. Recently, the right front hub started to make a loud grinding noise whenever I disengage the four-wheel drive. The autohub is not fully disengaging the four wheel drive and, or so I think. It engages roughly, and disengages smoothly on the fly, but once I stop and restart at say a stop light, there is an awful grinding, "whizzing" noise. Is this just the hubs that need replacement, or something more serious? I have been told auto-lockers are no good no matter who you get them from, be it Ford, Chevy, GM. Instead of replacing the autos, can I just put in manuals, if this is even my problem? The truck performs just fine once I get into 2WD.

Answer:  It sounds like your hubs are bad and the only “fix” is to replace them. Unfortunately, the only hubs that will work with your 4-wheel drive system are the factory automatic units, which we have found to be high maintenance components.

Question: 1995 Ford Ranger XL Truck mileage: 122,000.  My dome light and chime stayed on until I pulled the fuse, now my wipers, speedometer won't work until I fix it. I found the switches in the doors but, not sure how to bypass them to see if they/or which one is bad? Does the switch that makes the two-wire contact stop the alarm when separated?

Answer:  The door switch for the doom lights has only one wire and it grounds the circuit. The answer to your last question is yes.

Question: 2003 Ford Ranger mileage: 26,000.  My door ajar light will not turn off, even while I am driving, the light stays on and there is that constant beeping (like when you have your truck running but open the door). I cannot get it to turn off, and I cannot find where the sensor is. I am sure the door is closed, on both the driver and passenger sides, and my tailgate is closed also. Can you tell me how to fix this, and where the sensor is? It may just be dirty or something and I just need to clean it up, but I have to locate it first. I would appreciate it a lot. Thanks.

Answer:  The door ajar light is controlled by a button switch in the door jams. The switch is either not adjusted properly or is shorting out. With the door open, manually push the buttons in to find out which switch is faulty.

Question: 1996 Ford Ranger mileage: 44,000.  I am having clutch problems. The pedal feels a little week and does not disengage fully.  I have to force it into gear.  I have tried bleeding the system with no improvement.  I can see the slave cylinder traveling 1/2 inch, is this enough? How can I isolate a week master cylinder from a week slave cylinder? The clutch does not slip and their are no apparent leaks. Do you have any suggestions on isolating the problem?

Answer: From what you describe, you may be ready for a new clutch assembly.

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Question: 1996 Ford Ranger XLT mileage: 75,000.  When my lights are turned on the right blinker light comes on at the dash and the turn signal lights on the right side of the truck stay on (not blinking). When the lights are on the right turn signal does not blink. When the lights are off the turn signal works but all the dashboard lights flash as well as the clock/radio station light.  Do I have a Bad ground or is it the flasher?  I have been to several auto parts stores to switch out the flasher but I cannot seem to find one. If it is a bad ground how can I find where it is or how can I fix this annoying problem?

Answer: Check, the tail light/stop light bulbs and front turn bulbs. It could be that the wrong bulb was installed in one of these locations. A bulb with a single contact will "back feed" the circuit that requires a double contact bulb.

Question: 1994 Ford Ranger mileage: 150,000. Cranks intermittently, Could it be the main coil, or electronic modular?

Answer: Your car may be ready for a major tune-up including spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, rotor, fuel filter and air filter. Also, perform a fuel pump pressure test. Clean fuel injection system including throttle bore, idle speed control motor and passages. If problem still exists, scan computer for trouble codes.

Question: 1998 Ford Ranger mileage: 78,000.  The engine has a loud knock when I first start it like the lifters are not getting any oil to them, the dipstick says I'm full on oil yet the pressure gauge never registers above zero even at highway speed, yet the truck seems to run okay after it warms up, not great, just okay. It seems to rattle when I accelerate. I haven't seen any sign of an oil leak, just a small leak from the transmission. I usually use a 10/40grade of oil. Any help would be appreciated.

Answer: You may have low oil pressure. With engine the stopped, remove the oil pressure-sending unit. Replace with a temporary mechanical oil pressure gauge. Start the engine and note pressure at idle and at 2000 RPM. At 2000 RPM, the pressure should be approximately 40 to 50 pounds at idle. If you do not get these results, you may have internal engine problems. One possibility is a stuck oil pressure relief valve. Another possibility is an engine bearing (rod or crank) has failed. That may be the source of your knock.

Question: 1997 Ford Ranger, mileage: 49,800.  The check engine light came on in the truck. I popped the hood, looked at it, and saw that this thing had come disconnected, which is located next to where you pour the oil in. I reconnected it, but the check engine light remained on. I took it to the dealership today and they said the oxygen sensor had gone out, plus I needed to have the fuel injectors cleaned, de-sludged and replace the fuel filter. I went ahead with the oxygen sensor replacement, but I have to wait on the rest because of the cost involved. I was wondering, if you fix whatever it is that makes the check engine light come on, will it automatically go off or does a mechanic have to flip a switch?

Answer: The light does not automatically go off. Only the OBD II scanning system can reset the MIL (malfunction indicator light, more commonly known as check engine light.)

Question: 2001 Ford Ranger, mileage: 57,000.  My truck will not start; all I get is an audible click when I try to crank it. I've already replaced the starter and battery, checked that I have voltage to all points including from battery to starter, across the solenoid, and all my grounds are in good condition. I have even tried to bypass the solenoid by jumping across it with a screwdriver and even that only gets the same "click". The motor is not seized as I was able to turn the crank with a wrench. What else could it be? I am going nuts and have already had to rent a car for the weekend.

Answer: We would suggest first, that you load test the battery. Does the voltage drop past 10volts with a 200-amp load? Next, when the solenoid is energized is there 12volts going to the starter? Have the starter "bench" tested. Test the ground wires while trying to start the car. This can be done with a voltmeter by checking for any voltage between battery negative post and engine block.

Question: 1999 Ford Ranger mileage: 89,000.  Recently the rear running lights, dash lights, and windshield wipers all stopped working at the same time. I suspect a lose or bad ground. Is there something in common to all of these components that could cure the problem? The rear turn signals and break light work fine!

Answer: Check the fuse panel for a blown fuse. Test the fuses with the circuit under load (running lights switched on).

Question: 2002 Ford Ranger, mileage: 39,000.  I have been to the shop twice for the check engine light coming on. Each time it was an O2 sensor, first one before the catalectic converter then the one after went. Now the lights are on again. ( Ford Ranger extended cab.)

Answer: Your truck’s computer controlled engine management system will "light" the check engine light and store a fault code for the Oxygen sensor when there is a problem. This may occur if the fuel mixture is too lean or too rich and beyond the adjustment limits of the computer. For example, a vacuum leak or plugged fuel filter may cause a lean condition. Excess fuel pressure from a failed fuel pressure regulator would result in a rich condition. Check and correct any of these or similar problems, i.e. leaking intake manifold gaskets, severely plugged air filter, incorrect location of vacuum lines. The oxygen sensors maybe okay.

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