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Ford Mustang Repair Questions
Question:
1999 Ford Mustang GT
mileage: 95,000. Neither
the power seat nor
lumbar support work. I
checked for blown fuses
under the dash. Nothing
is blown. I did find
fuse 13 is grounded on
both sides. I checked
the fuse block under the
hood. Fuse 1, 30 amps is
blown. It instantly
blows when replaced with
ignition on or off.
There are no markings on
either block telling
what each fuse is for. I
bought a Haynes manual.
It has some diagrams,
but none for power
seats.
Answer:
Your lumbar support is controlled by a small
electric air pump. Try disconnecting the wires to
the pump and see if the fuse still blows. If it does
not blow, you have a faulty motor for the lumbar
support. If it does blow then you have a short in
the wiring somewhere for the switch.
Question:
2002 Ford Mustang GT mileage: 47,000. The clutch
seems to be a little stiff and requires quite a bit
of force to depress. This is my first manual, so I'm
not really aware as to how loose or stiff the clutch
should be. I have tried the clutch on my friend's
2001 Mustang V6, and it's much more loose than mine
and requires a fraction of the force to depress. I
would like to know whether my clutch is OK or should
I have it checked out professionally or whatever?
Answer:
The clutch in your car requires more effort to
operate than your friend's car because a stronger
clutch is required for a V8 motor as opposed to a
6-cylinder motor.
Question:
1995 Ford Mustang Convertible. The driver side rear
blinker is not working. The passenger side works
without a problem. I checked the bulb and it was not
burned out. I check the fuse box and notice that
none of the fuses are burnt out. Can you please
advise as to what the possible problem could be?
Answer:
Assuming the driver's side front blinker works then
the turn signal switch is okay. Take a 12-volt test
light and check the connector in the rear blinker
socket. If you have 12 volts, then you probably have
a poor ground connection. If you do not have 12
volts, check the wiring from the socket forward for
damage.
Question:
1996 Ford Mustang mileage: 156,000. I have changed
and bought new radiator hose's, thermostat, water
pump, temperature sensor fan and fan clutch and fan
shroud on this Mustang and had the heads checked. It
is still running close to hot, higher than normal.
What else is there left for me to do beside go to a
three fluke radiator? And how can I add 50 more
horsepower with out the blower kit, something simple
and not so expensive.
Answer:
Check block and heads for plugged passages or possible sludge in the bottom of
the block. Your new radiator may not have enough capacity to cool the engine.
The radiator fan may not be working properly. As for adding more horsepower,
keep in mind, more horsepower equates to more engine heat.
Question:
1995 Mustang Cobra mileage: 117,000. I have been
going back and forth with this Ford dealer who
couldn't seem to install my clutch properly. After
three attempts, the second two at no charge to me,
the clutch seems to be working fine and the car
seems to run okay. However, soon after I picked up my
car the third time and drove to my destination. My
check engine light comes on and stays on. When I
turn my car off and back on it goes off, but will
come back on and stay after driving some variable
amount of time. Does a clutch replacement require
any interaction with sensors or any component that
affects the computers' readings that may cause the
check engine light to come on?
Answer:
Your car is equipped with four oxygen sensors that
are close to the transmission. If one of them was
inadvertently not reconnected, it will light the
check engine light.
Question:
1967 Ford Mustang Fastback mileage: unknown. The engine
hesitates when you push on the gas, it idles fine,
at about 1000 rpm, and it has a mild cam. When you
take off, it has a hesitation, when you shift gears,
(normal driving) it hesitates until you get your RPM
up, it you are in forth gear and you push on the gas
to go a little faster it hesitates. It has a new
rebuilt Holley 600 dp and new spark plug wires, new
distributor cap, Mallory ignition (Unilite); timing
is set to 37 degrees TDC at 2000 rpm. 1-7 cylinders
have 115-120 lbs compression, and 8 has 110 lbs.
Answer:
Check the engine for vacuum leaks, hoses and intake
manifold gaskets, etc. If these check okay, check
the accelerator pump in the carburetor for proper
operation. In addition, check the carburetor for the
correct main jets and power valve.
MORE:
Ford Mustang Repair Questions
Question:
1998 Ford Mustang mileage: 164,000. We are
looking at purchasing this car. While test-driving
this vehicle, we noticed a rather loud whirring
sound coming from the back of the car. This sound
continued whether it was moving or stopped. Our
first guess was the fuel pump and in fact was
confirmed by the mechanic; the sales person says
that Ford fuel pumps are typically loud and the fact
that it is a hatchback amplifies the sound.
Personally, I have driven other Ford Mustangs and
have never heard the fuel pump. Is this in fact
typical of Ford fuel pumps or should we be concerned
about this sound? Thank you for any information you
can provide.
Answer: The fuel
pump noise is not normal.
Question:
1996 Mustang mileage: 125,000. Code 44 trouble
code (thermactor), backfire through exhaust during
acceleration from idle, rough during increase in RPM
from idle, air pump sounds good, possible diverter
valve? New O2 sensors yesterday, new plugs, new
wires, good spark. Any ideas?
Answer:
The
diverter valve would be the first thing we would
look at. Also, do a compression check on the engine.
Question:
1997 Ford Mustang mileage unknown. I was driving my car
and it started to cut out here and there. It would
stall out sometimes or just not start other times; I
could here that the fuel pump was not on when the
car was dying or not starting. It finally died and
had to be towed home. After I got home the car
started right up. Then it was dead again later on
that night. I dropped the tank and changed the
connection where the wires plug to the fuel pump on
the cap because they were in pretty bad shape. After
that, the car started right up and drove around for
a while and it ran great. After I got home I went to go back
out and it was dead again so I did not fix anything
there. It seemed to me that my fuel pump was on its
way out so I changed it. That did nothing. I tested
the old pump and both are working fine. I
changed the fuel pump relay under the seat and that
was not it either. I tested the wires with a meter,
I had the car hooked up with jumper cables and I was
getting 10.8 to 11 volts at the cap of the tank. I
was also getting the same out of the relay. I am
getting 13.5 volts from the battery when hooked up
to the jumper cables, and I was getting 13.5 out of
the inertia switch in the trunk, the power was going
through the switch so I think it is fine. What else
could be the problem? The 11 volts at the tank would
not even light a test lamp (I figured it should at least light that) but no. I am having no luck and am
not sure what to do. I tried grounding the ground
wire coming out of the pump to the frame and that
did nothing so I assume the ground is okay. Any help would be greatly
appreciated!
Answer:
You will need a wiring diagram to help you trace the
power wire so you can locate the voltage drop that
is occurring on your fuel pump. A Mitchell, Chilton
or Haynes auto repair manual or a manual from the
dealer will have diagrams showing what you are
looking for. The manuals also give step-by-step
instructions.
Question:
1965 Ford Mustang mileage: 107,000. The engine on my
Mustang smokes bad and sometimes lacks power. I was
told if it wasn't a blown head gasket to check the
transmission modulator. If it leaks fluid, when the
rubber line is removed that the diaphragm is bad and
can cause this problem. I pulled the rubber line
from the modulator and it did leak. Is this what is
causing my engine to smoke and to lack power?
Answer:
A pretty good chance it is. When the transmission
modulator fails, it pulls the transmission fluid out
of the transmission and burns it in the engine.
MORE:
Ford Mustang Repair Questions
Question:
1999 Ford Mustang mileage: 107,000. I broke
the water pump bolt off in my block. I need info on how
to get it out.
Answer:
There is no easy way here. The broken bolt will have
to be drilled out. We have had good luck using a
left hand drill bit that runs backwards. As you are
drilling the bolt, it has a tendency to back the
threads out.
Question:
1999 Ford Mustang mileage: 110,000. My Mustang
stopped dead in its tracks, with no warning I am not
getting any spark and have tested the coil and
replaced the ignition module. I get a code 11 and
code 14, which my Haynes manual tells me, is an
"Ignition profile pickup failure". Is the computer a
likely cause or should I look somewhere else before
replacing it?
Answer:
It sounds like your timing belt may have broke. You
will need to change the crank angle sensor as well.
Question: 1998
Ford Mustang GT mileage: 44,500. Is it okay to
use high octane gas in my car? I was told not to use
more than 87 octane because higher than that can
burn some gaskets. I thought a high
performance car should get high-octane gas.
Please help!
Answer:
Using gasoline with a higher octane than is required
by the manufacturer should not harm your engine.
However, it may make an unnecessary dent in your
bank account with no added performance advantage.
Question:
1996 Ford Mustang mileage: 120,000. My
speedometer bounces up and down and I don't get and
accurate speed rating. I replaced the plastic little
guard in the transmission that turns the speedometer
cable, in hopes it would fix it. It did not.
I was reading through your list does my car have a
speed sensor? Where is it located? And,
how can I test to see if it is good.
Answer:
Your problem sounds like the speedometer cable and
jacket should be replaced.
Question:
1995 Ford Mustang mileage: 106,000. Engine is
idling at 2000-3000 rpm. I was hoping this was just
an intermittent problem, I have attempted to reset
the computer by disconnecting the battery for about ten minutes. After driving a short distance,
the idle will sometimes correct itself, at other
times the "Check Engine" light will come on.
The car runs fine other than the fast idle.
This problem came on suddenly shortly after having
the engine cleaned. Mere coincidence or
could it be related?
Answer: 1995 and later model cars will not clear the
computer by disconnecting the battery.
Cleaning the engine may be the cause of your
problem. All the sensors and controllers are
very sensitive to moisture and corroded connections,
which will give faulty readings to the computer.
Now that your car has dried out, scanning the
computer for fault codes which should pinpoint your
problem.
Question:
1985 Ford Mustang mileage: 115,056. What
is the location of the ECA? Haynes book says on the
left side of the steering column, gives no
description of color or size and not specific for
this exact car. Advance Auto says it is a
silver box somewhere on the driver’s side.
Other mechanics I have talked to say it is somewhere
on the passenger side with unknown description. This car was manufactured 10/85. Where is it
and what size, color, and shape is it? There
is no silver box on the left side of the steering
column. I do know that the ECA wiring
goes into the firewall at the passenger side.
How do I get to it?
Answer:
Unless your car has been modified, it is under the
right front seat and that is assuming your car is a
true 1985. However, you indicated it was
manufactured in October of 1985 so you may have a
1986. If so, you would find the ECA
behind the right kick panel. It would be
approximately the size of a cigar box.
Question:
1998 Ford Mustang 6 mileage: 53,000. Sometimes
when I pull away from a stop and give my car gas and
shift gears I smell gas. There does not seem to be a
problem with the performance of the car, nor do I
hear any unusual noises coming from the car.
It does however seem to be using more gas than
usual. I have looked for gas leaks and cannot
find any. I am afraid to drive it. Do
you have any ideas about what could be causing this
gas smell?
Answer: Get your car inspected immediately. Leaking
gasoline is an extreme fire hazard. Replacing
all of the fuel injectors could solve the problems.
MORE:
Ford Mustang Repair Questions
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