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Question: 1999 Ford Mustang GT mileage: 95,000. Neither the Power seat nor lumbar support work. I checked for blown fuses under the dash. Nothing is blown. I did find fuse 13 is grounded on BOTH sides. I checked the fuse block under the hood. Fuse 1, 30 amps is blown. It instantly blows when replaced with ignition on or off. There are no markings on either block telling what each fuse is for. I bought a Haynes manual. It has some diagrams, but none for power seats.

Answer: Your lumbar support is controlled by a small electric air pump. Try disconnecting the wires to the pump and see if the fuse still blows. If it does not blow, you have a faulty motor for the lumbar support. If it does blow then you have a short in the wiring somewhere for the switch.

Question: 2002 Ford Mustang GT mileage: 47,000. The clutch seems to be a little stiff and requires quite a bit of force to depress. This is my first manual, so I'm not really aware as to how loose or stiff the clutch should be. I have tried the clutch on my friend's 2001 Mustang V6, and it's much more loose than mine and requires a fraction of the force to depress. I would like to know whether my clutch is OK or should I have it checked out professionally or whatever?

Answer: The clutch in your car requires more effort to operate than your friend's car because a stronger clutch is required for a V8 motor as opposed to a 6-cylinder motor.

Question: 1995 Ford Mustang Convertible. The driver side rear blinker is not working. The passenger side works without a problem. I checked the bulb and it was not burned out. I check the fuse box and notice that none of the fuses are burnt out. Can you please advise as to what the possible problem could be?

Answer: Assuming the driver's side front blinker works then the turn signal switch is okay. Take a 12-volt test light and check the connector in the rear blinker socket. If you have 12 volts, then you probably have a poor ground connection. If you do not have 12 volts, check the wiring from the socket forward for damage.

Question: 1996 Ford Mustang mileage: 156,000. I have changed and bought new radiator hose's, thermostat, water pump, temperature sensor fan and fan clutch and fan shroud on this Mustang and had the heads checked. It is still running close to hot, higher than normal. What else is there left for me to do beside go to a three fluke radiator? And how can I add 50 more horsepower with out the blower kit, something simple and not so expensive.

Answer: Check block and heads for plugged passages or possible sludge in the bottom of the block. Your new radiator may not have enough capacity to cool the engine. The radiator fan may not be working properly. As for adding more horsepower, keep in mind, more horsepower equates to more engine heat.

Question: 1995 Mustang Cobra mileage: 117,000. I have been going back and forth with this Ford dealer who couldn't seem to install my clutch properly. After three attempts, the second two at no charge to me, the clutch seems to be working fine and the car seems to run ok. However, soon after I picked up my car the third time and drove to my destination. My check engine light comes on and stays on. When I turn my car off and back on it goes off, but will come back on and stay after driving some variable amount of time. Does a clutch replacement require any interaction with sensors or any component that affects the computers' readings that may cause the check engine light to come on?

Answer: Your car is equipped with four oxygen sensors that are close to the transmission. If one of them was inadvertently not reconnected, it will light the check engine light.

Question: 1967 Ford Mustang Fastback mileage: unk. The engine hesitates when you push on the gas, it idles fine, at about 1000 rpm, and it has a mild cam. When you take off, it has a hesitation, when you shift gears, (normal driving) it hesitates until you get your RPM up, it you are in forth gear and you push on the gas to go a little faster it hesitates. It has a new rebuilt Holley 600 dp and new spark plug wires, new distributor cap, Mallory ignition (Unilite); timing is set to 37 degrees TDC at 2000 rpm. 1-7 cylinders have 115-120 lbs compression, and 8 has 110 lbs.

Answer: Check the engine for vacuum leaks, hoses and intake manifold gaskets, etc. If these check okay, check the accelerator pump in the carburetor for proper operation. In addition, check the carburetor for the correct main jets and power valve.

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Question: 1998 Ford Mustang  mileage: 164,000. We are looking at purchasing this car. While test-driving this vehicle, we noticed a rather loud whirring sound coming from the back of the car. This sound continued whether it was moving or stopped. Our first guess was the fuel pump and in fact was confirmed by the mechanic; the sales person says that Ford fuel pumps are typically loud and the fact that it is a hatchback amplifies the sound. Personally, I have driven other Ford Mustangs and have never heard the fuel pump. Is this in fact typical of Ford fuel pumps or should we be concerned about this sound? Thank you for any information you can provide.

Answer: We think you have answered your own question - the fuel pump noise is not normal.

Question: 1996 Mustang  mileage: 125,000. Code 44 trouble code (thermactor), backfire through exhaust during acceleration from idle, rough during increase in RPM from idle, air pump sounds good, possible diverter valve? New O2 sensors yesterday, new plugs, new wires, good spark. Any ideas?

Answer: The diverter valve would be the first thing we would look at. Also, do a compression check on the engine.

Question: 1997 Ford Mustang mileage: -. I was driving my car and it started to cut out here and there. It would stall out sometimes or just not start other times; I could here that the fuel pump was not on when the car was dying or not starting. It finally died and had to be towed home. After I got home the car started right up. Then it was dead again later on that night. I dropped the tank and changed the connection where the wires plug to the fuel pump on the cap because they were in pretty bad shape. After that, the car started right up and drove around for a while and it ran great. Got home went to go back out and it was dead again so I did not fix anything there. It seemed to me that my fuel pump was on its way out so I changed it. That did nothing. I tested the old pump and both are working fine. So, I changed the fuel pump relay under the seat and that was not it either. I tested the wires with a meter, I had the car hooked up with jumper cables and I was getting 10.8 to 11 volts at the cap of the tank. I was also getting the same out of the relay. I am getting 13.5 volts from the battery when hooked up to the jumper cables, and I was getting 13.5 out of the inertia switch in the trunk, the power was going through the switch so I think it is fine. What else could be the problem? The 11 volts at the tank would not even light a test lamp (I FIGURED IT SHOULD AT LEAST LIGHT THAT) but no. I am having no luck and am not sure what to do. I tried grounding the ground wire coming out of the pump to the frame and that did nothing so I assume the ground is ok. Sorry for the long explanation.

Answer: You will need a wiring diagram to help you trace the power wire so you can locate the voltage drop that is occurring on your fuel pump. A Mitchell, Chilton or Haynes auto repair manual or a manual from the dealer will have diagrams showing what you are looking for. The manuals also give step-by-step instructions.

Question: 1965 Ford Mustang mileage: 107,000. The engine on my Mustang smokes bad and sometimes lacks power. I was told if it wasn't a blown head gasket to check the transmission modulator. If it leaks fluid, when the rubber line is removed that the diaphragm is bad and can cause this problem. I pulled the rubber line from the modulator and it did leak. Is this what is causing my engine to smoke and to lack power? Kevin

Answer: A pretty good chance it is. When the transmission modulator fails, it pulls the transmission fluid out of the transmission and burns it in the engine.

Question: 1982 Ford Mustang GT  mileage: 86,000. I have a Mustang that is really wimpy. This engine was rebuilt at 85000 miles because it was downright done when I bought it. Original mileage and the body is in good condition, but after I bought it, the engine went to crap in about a month. I pulled the engine and got a summit kit for it. Without boring, I honed and rebuilt the engine replacing the rods, pistons and bearings. My partner said the cylinders looked ok to do this. Otherwise, we would have to bore the block. Since in the interests of money saving, we decided to try it w/o boring and this is the result. The car runs...but not like I think it should. It is smoother in operation, but lacks the horse it should have. Apparently, the 82 Mustang GT has only a weenie 157 horse@4200RPM's. Does this seem right? My car is a dog and it doesn't compare to the 86 GT I had before, that only had a 302, not even a HO. What can I do to beef this thing up and make it comparable to the later 80's Stangs that have horse of 250 or more? I need your help to guide me in what to do with this car! I love this car, but it isn't as powerful as I thought it would be. I've thought of getting a later engine and trying that, but is that really the way to go or can I beef this one up just the same? I'd appreciate any advice you have for me on what to do with this weenie car! Thank you

Answer: You will find high-performance books in our Repair Manuals page for additional resources. which might assist you.

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Question: 1999 Ford Mustang  mileage: 107,000. I broke water pump bolt off in my block. I need info on how to get it out.

Answer: There is no easy way here. The broken bolt will have to be drilled out. We have had good luck using a left hand drill bit that runs backwards. As you are drilling the bolt, it has a tendency to back the threads out.

Question: 1999 Ford Mustang mileage: 110,000. My Mustang stopped dead in its tracks, with no warning I am not getting any spark and have tested the coil and replaced the ignition module. I get a code 11 and code 14, which my Haynes manual tells me, is an "Ignition profile pickup failure". Is the computer a likely cause or should I look somewhere else before replacing it?

Answer: It sounds like your timing belt may have busted. You will need to change the crank angle sensor as well.

Question: 1998 Ford Mustang GT mileage: 44,500.  Is it ok to use high octane gas in my car? I was told not to use more than 87 octane because higher than that can burn some gaskets.  I figured a high performance car should get high-octane gas.  Please help!

Answer:  Using gasoline with a higher octane than is required by the manufacturer should not harm your engine.  However, it may make an unnecessary dent in your bank account with no added performance advantage.

Question:  1996 Ford Mustang mileage: 120,000.  My speedometer bounces up and down and I don't get and accurate speed rating. I replaced the plastic little guard in the transmission that turns the speedometer cable, in hopes it would fix it.  It did not.  I was reading through your list does my car have a speed sensor?  Where is it located?  And, how can I test to see if it is good.  

Answer:  Your problem sounds like the speedometer cable and jacket should be replaced.

Question:  1995 Ford Mustang mileage: 106,000.  Engine is idling at 2000-3000 rpm.  Hoping this was just an intermittent problem; I have attempted to reset the computer by disconnecting the battery for about 10 minutes.  After driving a short distance, the idle will sometimes correct itself, at other times the "Check Engine" light will come on.  The car runs fine other than the fast idle.  This problem came on suddenly shortly after having the engine cleaned.   Mere coincidence or could it be related?

Answer:  1995 and later model cars will not clear the computer by disconnecting the battery.  Cleaning the engine may be the cause of your problem.  All the sensors and controllers are very sensitive to moisture and corroded connections, which will give faulty readings to the computer.  Now that your car has dried out, scanning the computer for fault codes which should pinpoint your problem.

Question:  1985 Ford Mustang  mileage: 115,056.  What is the location of the ECA? Haynes book says on the left side of the steering column, gives no description of color or size and not specific for this exact car.  Advance Auto says it is a silver box SOMEWHERE on the driver’s side.  Other mechanics I have talked to say it is SOMEWHERE on the passenger side with unknown description.   This car was manufactured 10/85.  Where is it and what size, color, and shape is it?  There is NO SILVER BOX on the left side of the steering column.   I do know that the ECA wiring goes into the firewall at the passenger side.  How do I get to it?

Answer:  Unless your car has been modified, it is under the right front seat and that is assuming your car is a true 1985.  However, you indicated it was manufactured in October of 1985 so you may have a 1986.   If so, you would find the ECA behind the right kick panel.  It would be approximately the size of a cigar box.

Question:  1998 Ford Mustang 6 mileage: 53,000.  Sometimes when I pull away from a stop and give my car gas and shift gears I smell gas. There does not seem to be a problem with the performance of the car, nor do I hear any unusual noises coming from the car.  It does however seem to be using more gas than usual.  I have looked for gas leaks and cannot find any.  I am afraid to drive it.  Do you have any ideas about what could be causing this gas smell?

Answer:  Get your car inspected immediately.  Leaking gasoline is an extreme fire hazard.  Replacing all of the fuel injectors could solve the problems.

Question:  1969 Ford Mustang, Mach 1.  I recently purchased a 1969 Mach 1 Mustang.  The decoder indicates the engine to be a 351 2V V8.  While tuning the car and checking the timing, I found that the firing order was different than should be on my car.  In 1969, I read that all the engines except the 351 had the same firing order.  Because of this, it appears that I must have a 302 engine instead of a 351.  Finally, my question is whether or not there is some identifying stamp, number or something that I could look for on the engine that would tell me what engine I have.

Answer:   A Mitchell, Chilton or Haynes auto repair manual will have diagrams showing what you are looking for.  The manuals also give step-by-step instructions. Click here to find out more

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