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Ford F250 Truck Repair Questions and Answers

Question: 2002 Ford 250 XLT mileage: 70,000. I was checking for a power steering fluid leak, had my wife turning the wheel back and forth found the leak and fixed the problem. My problem is my wife left the key on and I didn't find out till the morning. At that time, my battery was gone. I charged up the battery tried to start the truck with no luck. It turned over but would not run. I ended up jumping the fuel pump relay and it started right up. I checked the codes and received all 11 (a.o.k). I went for a little drive maybe 5 miles turned the truck off till the next morning. Went to start it and nothing again. Jumped the relay again and it started. But this time it was running real rough & if you gave it gas it would die plus the check engine light stayed on. I ended up taking it to the ford dealer to look at it. The tech said the computer has no data output. The MAP censer needs replacing and the catalytic converter was plugged. My question to you is there any way I can test the computer for data output with out a lot of expense.

Answer: The ECM may be faulty. Try scanning it for fault codes; you will need a scan tool for this procedure and it is not cheap. Is it possible that the battery was jumped backwards when you were trying to get it started? If it was, you probably "cooked" the ECM.

Question: 1987 Ford F-250 mileage: 150,000. Thanks for all of the great info on your page. A wealth of info to say the least. I have a question for you of which I am stumped. Living in Arizona I need to pass emissions and thus the need to correct something with the carburetor or emissions and I am hoping you can help. I just bought a 1987 Ford F250 460/7.5ltr with 150,000 miles on it. Replaced plugs, wires, rotor, cap, and made sure all hoses are connected. The carburetor is a Holley manufactured for Motorcraft LIST 50262-2 (E5HE-9510-MC). The idle was kind of high the first time I went in (~1500 rpm in park). The first emission test: HC (Hydrocarbons PPM) Loaded 185 (300 pass) Idle 275 (300 Pass) CO (Carbon Monoxide %) Loaded 2.53 (3.00 pass) Idle 5.2 (4.00 FAIL) I felt the idle was high and turned it down to ~900 rpm, replaced the PCV, Next test: HC Loaded --> 181 (OK) Idle 558 <--FAIL CO Loaded --> 2.08 (OK) Idle 8.37 <---FAIL BIG TIME! I have been looking all over the place to figure out how to set the idle mixture or where the screw is with no luck. Is that factory set? One last note. The previous owner put some type of hand valve between the PCV and the port on the carburetor. I did not find this till I was turning down the idle. It looked like it was perpendicular to the line (off) during the first test thus I opened it for the second test. I am unsure the reason behind putting a hand valve there? What do you think? Idle mixture adjustment? Timing? Any help would be great... Thanks again for your helpful site. Matt (Phoenix, AZ)

Answer: Check to make sure the carburetor does not have a slight internal leak causing raw gas to be drawn into the intake manifold. If okay, try replacing the catalytic converter. We have found that new converters clean up the emissions. Most Holley carburetors have an idle mixture screw on either side of the carburetor body.

Question:  1997 Ford F-250 mileage: approx 100,000.  Hey there,  recently I went to my mechanic because I was concerned about why my truck was eating so much gas.   I went from filling my gas tank up about every 2-3 days to filling up once per day (not even driving a lot).  He looked at my vehicle for a little bit, gunned the heck out of the engine and he said that it had to do with my catalytic converters.  After he was done gunning my engine and giving me the great news, my truck had A LOT less power and was backfiring tremendously (similar signs of other people who have asked you questions).

Answer:  We do not know what could be causing your knocking.  Perhaps it is an exhaust leak but normally a knocking sound is not what is heard.  As for the lack of power, the first thing to check is the cylinder compression.  If this checks out okay, install a fuel pressure gauge and check the fuel pressure, as it may be low causing a lean condition.

Question:  1973 Ford F250 4x4 mileage: 50,000.  I live in a small, isolated town and am moving. I recently made a very full capacity loaded down trip (truck has an overhead camper) and towed another vehicle the 650 miles to my new home.  Everything went fine and the truck ran like a top.  On the return trip, however, about 150 miles into the trip the truck started to intermittently backfire thru the carburetor.  I stopped, made some adjustments etc.got, at one point...only about 2 mpg!  Ouch!  Finally limped home and thus far have done/discovered the following: Replaced: coil, dual points (it has a Mallory dual-point ignition), All plugs (one plug was missing the electrode), plug wires, It runs much better but still occasionally will backfire through the carb...I don't have any more ideas?  If you have time, I could sure use some suggestions.

Answer:  Do a compression check on the engine.  If it is satisfactory, check for a broken or weak valve spring.

Question:  1999 Ford F-250 mileage: 150,000.  I am getting poor fuel mileage. When we hooked it up to the computer it came up rich condition.  There is black smoke coming out of the tailpipe.  Anyway to the point.  After checking all of the sensors, we checked the fuel system.  We hooked up a fuel pressure gauge and when the engine is first started, the pressure is fine [38 psi spec is 35 -45 psi].  Then all of a sudden it goes up and pegs the needle [over 100 psi].  I believe the problem is in the tank selector solenoid.  Is this item rebuildable or do I have to get a new one?

Answer:    We do not believe your problem is the tank selector solenoid.  More than likely, it is the fuel pressure regulator.

Question:  1996 Ford F-250 mileage: 187,000.  Driving home and stopped at a stop sign.  Pulling through intersection and the truck dies.  Rolled back and tried to start it.  Nothing.  Acted like it was flooded, but it is a throttle body fuel injection.  Tried both tanks.   Ended up having it towed home and assumed it was a frozen fuel line.  That did not prove to be the case.  Warming it up did not help and neither did replacing the fuel filter and electric fuel pump.  Spray ether in throttle body and will try to run.  Acts like its not getting power to fuel pump.  No fuel pressure in rail.  Neither tank feeds engine.  Disconnected line fuel pump to engine block and no fuel found.  All fuses checked.  Is there a relay to be reset?  Or a fuseable link?   Any other ideas are welcome.

Answer: An inertia switch controls the voltage to the fuel pumps.  Resetting the button on top of the switch should get the power back to the pumps.   The inertia switch is located on the firewall to the right of the transmission hump.  If the fuel pump is located inside the fuel tank, then both pumps in both tanks must be replaced for proper operation.  If your fuel pump is frame mounted, then this obviously is not necessary.

Answer:  Check for a bad connection or faulty headlight switch or a faulty hi-low beam switch.

Question: 1998 Ford F-250 truck mileage: 109,000.  Bought truck approximately 1 year ago.  Truck has terrible fuel mileage about 4-4.5 to the gallon, no visible leaks of any sort.   Also has a severe lack of power.  I have replaced plugs, wires, filter, map sensor, and performed electrical check 11 for system ok.  Sometimes can hear and feel a pulsing.  Truck has great compression.  Runs great under cold start at high idle.  Sometimes tries to die with initial touch of gas peddle but not always.  Truck has auto trans no overdrive.  Noticed that exhaust man seems to be getting hotter on right side.  Please help.

Answer:  Check the catalytic converter to make sure it is not “plugged” or restricted.
 

Question: 1999 Ford F-250 mileage: 120,000.  I have a 1999 F250 pick up that needs an engine.  Can I put a 1986 351 Windsor high out put engine in without a lot of problems?

Answer:   Yes, it should fit with a minimum of problems.
 

Question:  1998 Ford F250 mileage: 120,000.  Thanks for any help.  I will try to be specific.  I purchased the truck about a month ago.  The "check engine" light comes on after being driven for 5 or 10 miles from a cold start.  EEC-IV codes were checked:  Key On Engine Off test gives a code of 11 (system pass).  Continuous code (stored memory) issues 41 (system indicates lean) and a 34 (EVP voltage above closed limit).  I have recently replaced the EGR valve, the EVP sensor, and the oxygen sensor in an effort to correct this problem with no success.  Sometime before that, the MAP sensor was replaced.  The condition of the spark plugs and the engine temperature gauge do not indicate that the mixture is lean, at least not severely.  I set the timing (SPOUT shorted) to 10 degrees BTDC.  Except for this warning light, the motor seems to be running pretty smooth.  It has an automatic transmission (no overdrive) and air conditioning.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Answer:  Check the fuel pump pressure and replace the fuel filter if not recently done.  Try injector cleaner in the gas tank if the problem persists.   The fuel injectors may need to be replaced.

Question: 1999 Ford F-250 mileage: 117,000. It is becoming harder and harder to shift gears in my truck without great effort and occasional grinding. The problem is especially apparent when the truck is first started in the morning. I can't get it in gear until the idle dies down without grinding, especially in reverse. When I get it in reverse the truck wants to start moving, a little even with the clutch fully engaged. It is also hard to shift when driving and occasionally grinds.

Answer: Good news and bad news. A simple clutch adjustment may be all that is needed. However, if that does not work, you may be in for a clutch replacement.

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