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Ford F150 Repair Questions
Question: 1999
Ford F150 mileage: 130,000. I had a long
block installed at 104,000 miles. About 5,000
miles ago my check engine light came on, the
code indicated it was the 02 sensor, so I
replaced it. The light came on again 1500 miles
later, again the code said it was the 02 sensor,
so I replaced it. About 1500 later again the
same story, so I got a different brand. This one
lasted about 2000 miles and again the light is
on and the code says it is the 02 sensor reading
lean. What else could the problem be? Could it
be giving me a wrong code? The code is 172.
Answer: The 0�
sensor reading lean is probably caused by a
malfunction in the fuel system, possibly a
plugged fuel injector or a weak fuel pump.
Question: 2002 Ford F-150
Pickup mileage: 25,000. Why would my radiator
water always be foamy like soap? What's the
cause of this? And is there a fix? Water is
clear clean coolant green. Foam is clear clean
white. I notice no leaks. However, I am always
having to add water to the radiator. Much steam
from rear tail pip in the mornings. I have been
smelling the radiator water. Sometimes I think
it smells like maple if that makes any sense.
Answer: It
sounds like a cracked and or a blown head gasket
is causing the problem you described.
Question: 2001 Ford F-150 4x2
mileage: 77,000. The brake pedal is pulled to the
floor on its own when the brake is just started
to be applied. With no pressure on the brake,
the truck stops and the pedal must be pulled
back by foot to release. Could the brake booster
be causing this? What is the problem?
Answer: Sounds
like the power brake booster is faulty.
Question: 1994 Ford F150 4x4
mileage: 102,000. When I apply the brakes my
truck pulls really hard to left, as if the right
caliper is not grabbing very good. I have just
recently replaced the right brake caliper and
put new pads on both sides. We even thought
maybe the new caliper we put on was defective so
we pulled it and replace it again. Still pulls
hard to the left when braking. We have bled both
sides several times and there is no air in the
lines. The left caliper was replaced about 2
years ago but the left side seems to be working.
The right side doesn't feel like its grabbing,
or the left side is grabbing to much. We are
stumped and so is everyone else I ask. Do you
have any ideas?
Answer: It is
normally a good practice when replacing brake
calipers to replace both of them. Check for worn
or loose suspension components and check brake
rotors to see that they are not machined
undersized. Check to see that the slides on the
calipers are working free and not binding.
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Ford F150 Repair Questions
Question: 1997 Ford F-150
mileage: 110,000. What is the difference in a
short block and a long block rebuilt engine?
Answer: A long
block is an engine equipped with rebuilt
cylinder heads. A short block does not have
cylinder heads.
Question: 1999 Ford F-150
mileage: 124,000. The truck will start but soon
acts like it is loosing fuel pressure. I have
checked the ECC (relay) and inspected the two
fuel pumps and changed the fuel filter. There is
a humming noise coming from a cylindrical device
located in front of the fuel filter. What is
this device? Is it a pressure regulator and if
not where is it? It sounds as if this part is
starting to wear out. The truck behaves worse as
the fuel lowers in each tank or when the truck
is on an incline. The truck recently stopped on
me when I let the gas level get to about 5-8
gallons in each tank. I carried an additional 5
gallons back for each tank. It still had trouble
starting. I happen to think to spray starting
fluid into the intake and the truck started
right up. It ran good for about five miles and
now I'm back to square one.
Answer: We have
seen similar problems on other Ford trucks that
we have fixed by replacing both fuel pumps.
Question: 1997
Ford F-150 mileage: 128,000. Immediately after
the previous owner had a remanufactured engine
installed, he noticed it cutout or began missing
in the mid range rpm's (1800-2200). Of course, I
noticed it too and thought I could figure it
out. After replacing the fuel, filters and
having the fuel pumps checked out they were
fine. I had the dive train overhauled with no
affect on the missing although it drives and
shifts a lot smoother. It also seems to need a
tune-up pretty frequently in order to maintain
my good mileage (about 18 mpg), which will
deteriorate to less than 10 quickly. Are there
any procedures (especially in the EFI and/or EI)
that might have been missed during the rebuild
that would cause this? And how do I get the
computer to give me its trouble codes and where
do I find the definition of each code.
Answer: Your
truck is equipped with an engine controlled
management computer. It should be scanned to
check for fault codes. There are no overhaul
procedures that we know of that would cause the
problem you describe. Every make, model, year
and engine size have different sets of computer
fault codes - some overlap from year to year,
some do not. We are sorry, but due to the large
volume of questions we receive, we do not have
time to research a list of codes for your
vehicle. A Mitchell, Chilton or Haynes auto
repair manual or a manual from the dealer will
have an explanation of the fault codes you are
searching for.
Click here to find out more
Question: 1995 Ford F-150 4X4
mileage: 71,250. My truck starts hard when cold
(6 to 8 turns). Once started, it runs well for
about 2 to 3 miles until the EGR valve kicks in.
Then the engine stumbles/skips for about 2
miles. However, when the engine does warm up and
the temperature gauge is in the normal position,
everything is fine. I have replaced the EGR
valve, but it has not improved the situation. I
have talked to several mechanics that have said
that it is engine design flaw concerning the
fuel distribution to the fuel injectors. The
fuel doesn't get to all cylinders in time when
the engine is cold. Have you heard about this?
Do you have any suggestions or do you know of
any aftermarket fuel system changes that you
could recommend to avoid this problem. I am
running out of ideas and Ford doesn't seem to
have answer to fix the situation. Thanks for
your time and help.
Answer: We do
not think the EGR valve is causing your problem.
Replace the temperature sensor as it may be
giving false readings to the ECM. Then, scan the
ECM for stored fault codes.
Question:
1998 Ford F-150 mileage: 106,000. The clutch
pedal on my F-150 4x4 is all the way to
the floor. She was able to pump it and
make it work for a while, but now it does
nothing. Sometimes not even coming back up
from the floor. A neighbor checked the
fluid for her and added some, (amount unknown),
and it worked for a while. I looked for a
bleeder valve but found nothing. There is
nothing happening in the master cylinder
reservoir while pumping. I thought
changing this would solve the problem, but I
cannot figure out how to disconnect. HELP!
Does it sound like the clutch master cylinder
putting air into the line? And if so, how
do you disconnect this stuff?
Answer: You
stated in your question that some fluid was
added to the clutch master and it worked for a
while. This would indicate a leak in
the system, probably the clutch slave cylinder.
Check for the leak in the system and replace
accordingly.
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Ford F150 Repair Questions
Question:
1992 Ford F-150 mileage: 120,000. I
am getting fuel in the oil. The truck is fuel
injected of course. It is not water, it is
fuel. Rail pressure is normal.
Pressure regulator has been replaced, no change.
It takes about three weeks for the level on the
dipstick to rise about an inch. I believe
it to be an injector but which one. It is
costly to replace all of them. The vehicle
runs fine until the level gets to high on the
dipstick. Is this an injection problem and
if so which one. They all look fine on
visual inspection. We drained the oil and
changed plugs and in about three weeks the same
thing. Also all cylinders have 150 psi.
Please help.
Answer:
You are right, there is an excellent chance that
one of the fuel injectors may be leaking fuel.
The only test is to remove the injectors,
pressurize and watch for one to leak.
Question:
2001 Ford F-150 4 WD mileage: 77,000. My
pickup has a problem. When I pull the oil
stick out it has water in it but I don't seem to
be losing any coolant. I also have a
creamy oily substance in where the breather
filter is. The truck has good power and
starts right up. What could be wrong?
Answer: Check
your intake manifold gaskets and head gaskets;
one or both may have failed. Usually it is
just one.
Question:
1998 Ford F-150 mileage: 78,786. I own a
1998 Ford F150 extended cab pick up truck,
cruise, automatic transmission, power steering,
power brakes (ABS in front). When the
weather got cold here in Wisconsin, the truck
started running rough when it first was started,
but then smoothed out as it warmed up.
This became more prevalent below 10 degrees F.
I knew the truck was due for a tune up and took
it in. The garage told me that my
spark plug wires were bad, probably original
equipment, and they replaced the wires, plugs,
cap, and rotor. Two days after I got it
back, I had the same rough running problem when
I started it and as I listened to it it seemed
that the problems were similar to the choke
sticking on an older carburetor type fuel
system. I called the garage and made an
appointment, but was not able to get the truck
in before it quit running. We got a
cold snap, I went out to start the truck, and it
ran very rough for a short time and then quit.
I tried several times over the next 2 days to
start it, but it would not start. It would
turn over fine, and it would try to fire, but
just wouldn't go. It emitted a strong
smell of raw gasoline and I had it towed to the
garage. The garage had the truck for 3
days and called me up to tell me that they could
find nothing wrong with it except that it was
badly flooded. They told me they had to take the
plugs out and dry them off and they had to
change the oil. There was less then 500
miles on the oil change. The mechanic stated
that there was an extra quart of fluid in the
crankcase and a strong smell of gas. He
said that after he changed the oil they put the
truck on a diagnostic computer and they could
find nothing wrong except that the computer
found gas fumes still present in the crankcase.
I got the truck back last week and used it to
drive to work on Friday and Saturday. Both
days it still had symptoms of running rough when
it was cold but would smooth out as it warmed
up. Saturday I filled it with gas and my
wife and I went out for dinner. The round
trip to the restaurant was about 28 miles.
The truck again ran rough until it warmed up,
and seemed sluggish at city driving speed.
The truck used a quarter tank of gas on the
28-mile trip. Can you tell me what might
be wrong? Larry
Answer:
Your fuel pressure regulator is probably failing
causing excessively high fuel pressure, which
causes your engine to flood. This of
course would result in extremely poor gas
mileage.
Question:
1996 Ford F-150 mileage: 134,000. The
problem with my truck is on starting it. I
turn the key on, but do not start the truck, and
the fuel pumps, does not matter which tank is
selected, will continuously run. Most of
the time it will shut off after several minutes,
but sometimes, it wont shut off at all. My
truck will not start unless they cut off.
Sometimes it will, but it runs very poor, and it
has very little power. The check engine
light will stay on if it does happen to start
with the fuel pump not shutting off. I
bought a code reader to check the code, and it
came up with an EGR sensor problem.
Therefore, I replaced it, but it did not change
anything. If the pump does cut off, my
truck will start and will run fine. I have
replaced the fuel pump in the front tank (it had
been giving me some problems for a while), the
fuel pump relay, and the fuel pressure
regulator. I guess the question I really
have is, what tells the fuel pump to shut off?
Is there a sensor that reads the pressure, or
something else in the fuel system to give the
o.k? To shut off. Another thing is
that if I do get it started, it will usually run
fine during that day, meaning if I drive if for
a while, and then stop it, I can usually restart
it without a problem. However, the next
day, it will return to its non-starting state.
I would appreciate any information or ideas you
can give me on what I can do to solve this
problem.
Answer:
Try replacing both the fuel pumps.
Question:
1994 Ford F-150 mileage: 144,000 I put a
rebuilt carburetor and an oxygen sensor on it,
it has had a tune-up, and I also put a control
module on it. After I put the module on,
it got 14 mpg and the next day, it backfired,
quit 3 times before I got out of the driveway,
and hesitates when I give it gas, and when I
slow down, it quits, but not all the time.
What kind of gas mileage should it get? It
is an automatic with overdrive. What
should I do? Do you know how it
could be fixed? Please answer this as soon
as possible! Thank You!
Answer: Sounds like you may be having
problems with the rebuilt carburetor.
Question:
1995 Ford F-150 mileage: 154,000. On my 1995
Ford F-150 I have a problem with my fuel
system. My truck has two fuel tanks, a fuel
pump in each tank and a dash mounted electrical
switch for switching tanks. My problem is that
when I switch to the rear tank, the return fuel
supply goes to the front tank (filling up the front
tank). When the front tank is switched on
everything works just fine. Does the above
problem indicate a malfunctioning fuel pump or could
it be caused by something else. Note:
About the same time that the gas tank problem
started, I also started to experience difficulty
with starting the engine.
Answer:
Yes, the problem is caused by a malfunctioning fuel
pump. Replacing both pumps in both tanks
should fix your problem.
MORE:
Ford F150 Repair Questions
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