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Ford F-150 Truck Repair Questions and Answers

Question:  2001 Ford F-150 mileage: 40,000.  The truck died as I was going down the road. Fuse 9 in power distribution panel under the hood was blown and continues to blow when I try to start the truck.  I disconnected the transmission harness and was able to start the truck but I have to shift manually to drive it.  I had a transmission shop look at it, they hooked a breakout box up to the transmission, and it checked out ok.  Any ideas?

Answer:    We would check the wiring harnesses for damage as well as the ground wires.

Question:  1999 Ford F-150 mileage: 105,000.  I have a problem.  I think it is my alternator, but I am a little unsure.  Periodically, my lights dim and everything electrical will slow (ac, heater, etc.)  After a short period, they will return to normal.  At first I thought it might be a short, but it does not occur when I hit a bump nor does it go away on bumpy roads (once it stopped while sitting still).  The last time it happened, my truck stalled when I stopped.  It wouldn't restart.  Then, about an hour later, it started as if nothing was wrong.  Any ideas?  I'm lost.

Answer: Here are some things to check.  Load test the battery.  Check that the battery cable connections are clean.  Check for 12 volts to starter solenoid with the key in the start position.  These things should be checked first then the ignition switch, starter and starter solenoid.  One of these may be faulty.

Question:  1991 Ford F-150 mileage: 87,000.  While idling the engine, without warning, stalls.  It restarts right away.  Driving on the road, you can feel the engine cut off with a jerk intermittently but restart itself.  At a light or low speed, it just shuts down and has to be restarted.  I changed the oxygen sensor, rotor, cap, plugs and wires, still no luck.  Can you help?

Answer: We think it could be a faulty ignition module or fuel pump.

Question:  2002 F-150 mileage: 65,000.  Hi Bob and Ken,  I have a 2002 F-150 pickup. Recently I put my key in the ignition to start the engine and had a major battery explosion.  I have replaced the battery and starter and battery cables but I am still unable to connect the positive cable without frying the battery.  The alternator, voltage regulator and solenoid are good therefore is it possible the problem is in the starter relay?  Thanks.

Answer:    Yes, there is a very good chance that the starter relay has shorted out and causing your problem.

Question:  1997 Ford F-150 Supercab mileage: 149,000.  I'm trying to replace the valve that controls what fuel tank the engine uses for it's fuel. The truck has dual tanks.  The valve appears to be faulty and the tank in use leaks some its gas into the unused tank.  Problem is, I cannot find it to replace it.  Chilton's manual says it is on the same frame rail as the fuel filter, but I still cannot find it.  Could it located on top the middle tank?  Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Answer:   Each tank has a fuel pump and valve inside the tank.

Question:   1996 F-150 4x4 mileage: 125,000.  My owner's manual refers to hypoid oil for the rear end.   What is hypoid oil?

Answer:    It is gear oil with an anti-scuff additive required for hypoid (offset) style ring and pinion gears.

Question:  1984 F-150 Ford Where can I get a wiring diagram for in line 6-cyl 1-barrel carburetor or a new wiring harness?  I’ve checked all the places I can think of for both, Ford dealers, junk yards and libraries.

Answer:    A Mitchell or Chilton auto repair manual will have diagrams showing wiring diagrams.  The manuals also give step-by-step instructions. The information you are inquiring about is in a repair manual. Please go here to find out more

Question:  2000 Ford F-150 mileage: 79,000.  Truck runs good but exhaust manifold turns beet red after running a while. How can I fix this?

Answer:    Check fuel mixture, it may be incorrect.  Also, check ignition timing.

Question:  2002 Ford F-150 mileage: 140,000.  My truck started cutting out or stalling when in idle mode and/or when I go to release the clutch to take off.  Whenever it did this the mph needle would also “wave around” as I am going down the road.   If the truck took off OK and I noticed the speedometer needle would wave around, I would be forewarned about coming to a stop on an incline.  This would last a day or two and then go away for 2-3 weeks and then come back to haunt me again.  After 4 months of this along with going to four Ford dealers for an answer, this problem came back for good and nobody seems to know what’s going on.  Finally, I went through the fuse list.  Found the very last fuse that had speedometer on it, along with nothing else that pertained to my truck.   Pulled this fuse, wiped out my electronic odometer along with my speedometer needle.  Now my truck runs fine.  Is it the speedometer sensor?  That’s the only logical answer that I have heard. I’ve been there done that with spending money to replace this and that to have my vehicle not get fixed.  I am looking forward to your opinion.  Thanks for your time.

Answer:   We do not think the problem is the speedometer sensor.  Check for bad or loose ground connection to the instrument cluster.

Question:  2000 Ford F-150 XL mileage: 87,000.  Heater not blowing hot air.  I have already replaced the heater core, the thermostat, and the anti-freeze.  I have even checked the cable that activates the door that is supposed to allow hot air into the ductwork.  Am I missing something?  Any other possibilities?  I don't mind the cold it's just hard to see out the windows when it snows and ice's.  The A/C works just fine!  Let me know what you think!

Answer:   The heater control valve may be stuck closed.  Also, check vacuum source to valve.

Question:  1998 Ford F-150 4wd mileage: 105,000.  What is involved in fixing a rear main oil leak?  Do you have to pull the Engine, Transmission, front differential?

Answer:   It is probably easiest to remove the engine to replace the rear main seal.

Question:  1998 Ford F-150  mileage: 80,000.  My fuel gauge reads past full mark at all times.  I tried grounding the sending unit wire and the hand falls back to e. Please help!

Answer:   The sending unit in the tank may be faulty.  Check for broken or disconnected wires to the tank.

Question:  2002 Ford F150 mileage: 25,600. When put in reverse it seems to drag as if the parking brake was on. I have checked the brakes and they are fine. Also had the sensors checked all were fine. When put in drive it runs fine with no problems. It is most likely internal, but what exactly I don’t have a clue. Would you have any idea what would cause this problem and estimate cost?

Answer: From the problem you describe, it does sound like an internal problem. The transmission may have to be disassembled to locate the problem.

Question:  1999 Ford F-150  mileage: 125,000. Late last year, my oil pressure dropped to the low end of normal. I flushed the engine, which corrected the problem (at the time). Now, less than a year later, my oil pressure is back down to the low end of the "normal" area of the pressure gauge again. What are some possible causes for this? My oil pump? If so, is there anything special that I need to know about changing my oil pump (i.e. torque specifications, etc.)?

Answer: Considering the fact that you have 125,000 miles on the engine in your truck, the low oil pressure is probably due to excessive clearance in the rod and main bearings. We do not think replacing the oil pump will help.

Question:  1995 Ford F-150 Supercab mileage: 58,000. Air conditioning blows out defroster on hard acceleration I know this is probably a vacuum leak have been unable to find more than one reserve tank the one I found is not leaking.

Answer: Check for vacuum hoses that may be cracked or a loose connection. Another source of the leak may be the vacuum switch on the back of the heater/air condition control on the dash. Somewhere in the vacuum system is a check valve that may have failed. It is usually part of the vacuum reservoir tank.

Question:  1987 Ford F-150 mileage: 100,000. With A/C on, while driving it works fine, but when I come to a red light or any time I stop it stalls out the engine. I have to turn the A/C off and restart the engine. It seems as long as I have my foot on the gas pedal it works. What could be wrong?

Answer: From what you describe, the air-condition compressor appears to be failing.

Question:  1989 Ford F-150 mileage: 50,000. My engine spark knocks on hills and during acceleration, but only when the engine is warmed up. Switched to 89 octane from 87 but it did not help. Engine has new plugs. Any ideas?

Answer:  Check ignition timing and the knock sensor; it may be failing. It is located behind the intake manifold in the block.

Question:  1993 Ford F-150 mileage: 65,000. I am on my third battery in this truck. The voltmeter seems to set at a different voltage from one start up to another. Sometimes around 11 volts, sometimes up around 14. It doesn't always fluctuate with engine speed, but sometimes it will drop when at idle. I'm wondering if I have a alternator problem or a voltage regulator problem?

Answer:  You are right the voltage regulator or alternator may be failing. But first check the drive belt for the alternator. Is it glazed and slipping? Is it tightened properly? Also, check the ground wires. Are they making a good Connection?

Question:  1994 Ford F-150 Pickup mileage 78,000 miles. One day everything is fine. The next morning no speed control, no horn and the air bag warning light is flashing. It flashes in series of on 3 times, off then on two times then repeats 3 then 2. I have checked fuses in distribution box and fuse panel. I would like the speed control to work and in Oklahoma, I have to have the horn to pass inspection. I got an idea I have a problem with the air bag system that is in the steering wheel and that is keeping the other things from working. If so I am SOL cause then I will have to take it to a Ford shop.

Answer:  First check horn control relay (located on main fuse/power block in engine compartment. Next, check for wiring damage in or near steering column. Also, check fuseable links (big fuse) in main fuse/power block.

Question:  I just bought a 1994 Ford F-150 automatic. mileage: 65,000  It and was used as a work truck for a company. The body is great and I understand that it was probably put through the ringer. It was routinely maintained (oil changes) but I can see that wires, plugs, sensors and other minor things were not. Being a novice do it yourselfer, where is the best place to start with fixing it up and replacing stuff. Any comments and questions would be greatly appreciated.

Answer:  A major tune-up would be a good start. Replace the spark plugs, plug wires, fuel filter, cap/rotor and air filter. The fuel injection should be serviced to clean the throttle bore and idle passages. You may need to replace the radiator hoses and belts. An oxygen sensor would also be in order. Next, replace the fuel pump.

Question:  I have a 1998 Ford F-150 mileage: 95,000. I installed the top intake gasket. I have one vacuum hose I can’t find to reinstall. Could you send me a diagram please?

Answer: Your best bet now is to take your vehicle to your local mechanic, find another 1988 Ford like yours and note the location of the vacuum hoses or buy a shop manual. In the future, take a picture of your engine before starting the work to refer to later, as you need it.

Question:  I have a 1999 Ford F-150 mileage: 105,000, two wheel drive, engine, 4 speed manual transmission with the following symptoms: on transition from light to medium loading, the engine experiences excessive pinging. At low rpm, the ping sounds more like a solid knock. It sounds like it happens on one or two cylinders. Base timing was checked and found okay. On retarding ignition timing approximately 10 degrees the pinging is minimized with occasional low rpm knock. Otherwise, the engine runs and sounds fine. Sometimes with base timing at its recommended setting of 10 degrees before top dead center, the engine would operate properly with no pinging on heavy loading. Does this engine utilize a knock sensor and if so where is it located? Your assistance is appreciated.

Answer:  The problem you describe may be the result of one of the following:
Carbon deposits in the intake ports and or combustion chambers, spark plug wire cross fire, harmonic balancer ring moving giving false timing marks, improper gasoline octane, your engine is not equipped with a knock sensor.

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