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Question: 2003 Ford F-150_mileage: 61,000.  It has the Triton V8 engine. About one thousand miles ago it had service engine light come on. When it came on I noticed a momentary hesitation and no other problem. I checked the code was a cylinder 1 misfire. No problem existed until now and it started running funny and light came on again. This time the code is for a cylinder 4 misfire. Not being very familiar with electronic ignition I am at a loss as to where to start. Any help appreciated.

Answer: Replacing all eight spark plugs and the coils on the cylinders that showed the misfire should cure your problem.

Question: 1996 Ford F-150 E4OD Auto 5.8 mileage: 180,000.  I live in Australia and my car is an imported from the USA because Ford over here at the time were not producing them. Recently I changed the differential ratio from 3.08:1 to 4.1:1 and now the E401 transmission is changing real late and changing back early. No one in Australia seems to know anything as well as myself. Could you please explain to me where the vehicle speed sensor is and is it affected by my conversion and can my problem be fixed by altering the speedometer or changing the speed sensor to reflect the new ratio? Without being positive I didn't think the speedometer is now incorrect. I would appreciate any help you could give me. Thank you.

Answer: The shift points for the transmission are controlled by the computer. Because you have changed the differential ratio, the computer must be reprogrammed. Unfortunately, only a Ford dealer can do this for you.

Question: 2000 Ford F-150 V-V8 mileage: 69,000.  This will be a real challenge for whomever takes on this one. Even the Ford hotline mechanics can't figure this one out. This problem started after my truck was recalled to change the cruise control sensor. This is what has been happening: I'll be going down the road and all of a sudden it will start jerking, then it will stop jerking. It does not kill the engine or even make it miss. It may not do it again for a few days, and then it'll do it again. After doing that several times, the check engine light came on. So I took it to the Ford Dealership, they put it on the machine, told me it was the crankshaft sensor that was bad, so they changed it. A few days later it's doing it again and the light is back on. So I took it back in and they told me this time it's the gas I'm using and to put a treatment in it which I did. Next morning I took it in again because it's doing it again. They told me it's the fuel filter and they changed it. Guess what, a few days later the light is back on and it's still jerking. I take it back in. They call the Ford hotline and are told it's a coil connected to the spark plugs. So here I am! I have to go everyday or so to change a coil till they can find the right one because they don't know which one it is. So patiently I go eight more times and it's still doing the same thing. I took it back. This time they keep my truck for three days and they tell me they think they got it fixed, they reprogrammed the computer. Well guess what, my truck is still doing the same thing and the light is back on. My truck was running real smooth before they reprogrammed it and now it seems to be idling to fast. Could you please help me if you can. They have told me they have no idea what's wrong with my truck. They will have to try this and that and I don't have the money for them to keep on with trial and error. I would greatly appreciate your advice on this if you can give me any suggestions on what might be causing this.

Answer: Based on what you have told us, we would replace the fuel pump.

Question: 2002 Ford F-150 Mileage: 83,408.  The motor locked up on him with no warning as he was driving down the road. We contacted our local dealer and had the vehicle towed in. They looked in the motor and told us that there was no oil on the timing chain or on the valves but there was oil in the oil pan and it was black. The only thing they seen was a little "sludge" on top of the valves. Other than that they have not gave us any other indication as to what has happened. Do you have any ideas as to what may have caused this to happen?

Answer: The oil pump or oil pump drive may have failed or an oil pressure relief valve may be stuck open. If the oil is not changed at recommended intervals and/or poor quality oil is used sludge deposits in the engine can develop.

Question: 1999 Ford F-150 mileage: 78,000. Over the last few weeks when I accelerate the truck will "hesitate." It is just a quick stutter and once I let off the gas it seems to stop. It was just doing it when the truck was in overdrive but now it is doing it in rural areas with the overdrive off. I just had the fuel pump replaced less than a year ago and the fuel filter is fairly new also.

Answer: Some of the things we would check would be the fuel pressure regulator, the correct operation of the EGR valve and check for vacuum leaks especially around the intake manifold gaskets.

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Question: 2001 Ford F-150  mileage: 40,500. When I turn the key to the "off" position the fuel pump continues to run. If I switch tanks, the pump runs in the other tank as well. I was unable to find a fuse although the fuse diagram said there was a fuse in position 15. How do I get the fuel pumps to stop pumping?

Answer: It appears that the fuel pump relay is hanging up.

Question:  Ford F-150. The fuel pump continues to run after I shut off the key, in either tank. I can't find a fuse either, so I've taken to disconnecting the battery cable. When I come back out to restart it, I re-hook up the main battery cable and all is fine (that is, the fuel pumps don't start running). Do you still think this is the relay? If so, is there just one and where is it located?

Answer:  From what you have described, it is the relay. When the key is off and the fuel pump is still running, try removing the relay and see if the fuel pump quits. It is located under the shield at the air cleaner support bracket.

Question: 1976 Ford F-100 truck 300 mileage: 280,000.  My fuel gauge is not working properly. It will show from empty to half full even when talk is full of fuel. Is the problem with the fuel gauge or is it in the sending unit? My friend said it is the battery. He said I should pick up the battery and put it into a newer truck.  All joking aside, thanks for any help you can give me.

Answer: Try unhooking the wire from the sending unit in the gas tank and with the key on, read the fuel gauge. It should read empty. Now, ground the sending unit wire and it should read full. If this is the case, your sending unit needs replacing. If not, it is the gas gauge.

Question: 2000 Ford F-150 mileage: 71,000. The temperature gauge in my truck never seems to move much (it sits on the cold mark nearly always) no matter how much I drive. Even with the a/c on a hot day, it only moves up a fraction of an inch. Could it be my thermostat?

Answer: From what you have explained, you probably have a faulty temperature gauge or sending unit. If the thermostat was the culprit and stuck in the open position your car would register normal or above normal on your gauge when driven on a hot day for long distances.

Question: 1999 Ford F-150 mileage: 89,000. My question is due to a humming or whining noise as I accelerate. Once I get to about 40 mph, I begin to hear what sounds like a loud humming from my tires. It almost sounds like the noise as if I had big tires on the truck. The tires are of normal size. As I decelerate, the noise winds down. Will the pilot bearing or throw out bearing cause this? I checked the wheel bearings, and they are fine. Also, when I push in the clutch, the noise seems to disappear. I realize without driving the vehicle it is hard to make an assumption. Any advice would be helpful.

Answer: We would try to isolate the problem by driving the car at the speed at which the noise is the loudest and then put the transmission in neutral and shut off the engine. If the noise is still there, it is probably in the drive train or possible in the transmission. If the noise is gone, then it may be the clutch or the engine.

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Question:  1998 Ford F-150 mileage: 95,000.  Two different mechanics cannot solve our problem. Our truck starts fine, and then on cue, after approx. ten minutes running time, it begins to stall and buck.  The check engine light comes on and the rough running continues for the duration of the trip.  The code that is set points to a faulty oxygen sensor.  We've replaced it twice.  Once with an after market Napa sensor, then, on the advice of the second mechanic, a genuine ford sensor.No change. We've replaced the plug wires, the dist. cap, and the plugs. We've checked the fuel pump pressure, replaced the in-line fuel filter, nothing so far has fixed the problem.  This is frustrating since the truck is in excellent condition, only 25,000 original miles.  We are at the point of replacing the "so called" computer on the truck.  However, I'm not optimistic that the problem lies there.  Again, the symptom: truck starts fine, but after warming up, begins to miss and buck.  It's possible to accelerate and drive out of the problem, but it returns almost immediately.  It's really bad in stop and go traffic, it cuts out badly in first gear, esp. on inclines.  We've been struggling with this problem for over a year, any help would be greatly appreciated.  Thank you.

Answer:  Check the fuel pump relay, the ECC relay, the fuel pump pressure when the problem is occurring you may have a faulty fuel pump.  There is also a chance you may have a bad power control module PCM.

Question:  1997 Ford Pickup F-150  mileage: 90,000.  My truck has two gas tanks. Front tank is slightly larger than the back.  I noticed a drop in fuel economy lately (past few months).  I started checking, front tank gets the usual 17-mpg.  Back tank varies from 11 to 13.  No fuel leaks (at least not when it is sitting in garage).  No fuel smell.  Runs good.  Any suggestions?   I checked your previously answered questions but didn't see anything quite the same.  Thank you for your time!

Answer:  Your problem with the fuel tanks is probably caused by the fuel pumps.  Replacing both pumps should fix your problem.

Question:  2002 Ford F-150 4WD mileage: 53,800.  I cannot get a spark advance.  New distributor, control module, switched computers but still high gas mileage and runs rough at hill or when I give it the gas.  Runs like a new engine when idling.  Have timed and retimed it and so has my mechanic but no results.  It will also backfire sometime when I go to shut it off.  Have tried everything.  It's driving me crazy.

Answer:  On the distributor is a connector that should be disconnected to set the timing.  This must be reconnected after setting the timing in order to have the spark advance work properly.  Check to make sure yours is making a good connection.

Question:  1999 Ford F-150 4WD mileage: 105,000.  On a cold start will roll over but not start. Replaced fuel filter, fuel pump (3), pressure regulator, spark plugs, coil, rotor cap and fuses.  When turnkey to start the pump will not shut off.  Try over and over, when the pump finally shuts off you can start the truck.  Ford dealership hooked to computer no codes said it was fuel pump.  We replaced with third one, still same thing.  Checked the inertia switch.  Help!   Tired of replacing parts!

Answer:  If your truck is equipped with two gas tanks, each tank has a fuel pump and both pumps must be replaced at the same time. We know what you are think why both pumps. The answer is because Ford designed the system so that one pump is dependent upon the other for proper function of the entire system.  There is no selector valve between the two tanks.

Question:  1993 Ford F-150 4 WD  mileage: 114,000.  My truck problem is rough Iidle, poor gas mileage, hesitation, after a short drive (ten miles) or so, if I shut the engine off and restart, the motor is hard to start and about one mile down the road the check engine light comes on.  I took my truck to several mechanics and have replaced the throttle position sensor, 02 sensor, water temperature sesnor, They got me an Emissions sticker but the problem still remains. I recently used the truck's self-diagnostic tester and the following results (codes) were obtained.  KOEA: 31-EVP circuits below minimal voltage.  KOEA: 32-EVP voltage below closed limit.  KOEA: 33-EGR valve not opening.  KOEA: 41-O2 sensor not switching.  RUN CODE: 21-No idea what this one means!  RUN CODE: 44-Secondary air inoperative.  RUN CODE: 33-EGR valve not opening.  I'm trying to follow a Haynes manual, and not sure where to go from here, and need some advice!  Thanks for the help!

Answer:  Check the fuel injectors to be sure one is not hanging open or leaking.  Check fuel pump pressure and fuel pressure regulator.  Check the voltage generated by the oxygen sensor; the range should be .5 to 3 volts.

Question:  1995 Ford F-150  mileage: 140,000.  I am pretty sure that I have to replace the Clutch in my truck. I am not up on the latest tech stuff and was wondering when replacing a clutch, what else do I have to replace.  Also, what parts would you recommend?  I don't mind paying extra up front.

Answer:  When replacing the clutch, it is a good practice to replace the clutch disk, pressure plate, release bearing and pilot bearing.  When the clutch assembly is removed, inspect the surface of the flywheel, it may need resurfacing.

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Question:  1997 Ford F-150 mileage: 138,500.  My truck has recently started what appears to be a miss; it mainly happens after the motor has warmed up and is under hard acceleration such as passing.  However, this does not always occur.  Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

Answer:  If a major tune-up has not been done recently, this could be the cause of your problem.  Replace the spark plugs, plug wires, fuel and air filters, etc.  Also, replace the oxygen sensor.  In addition, service the fuel injection system.  Clean the carbon deposits from the throttle bore and idle passages.

Question:  1991 Ford F-150 4x4 mileage: 75,000.  I have been trying to solve some error codes for a while.  I was getting all kinds of codes at first.  I realized that my vacuum reservoir was rusted out.  I have replaced it.  I cleared codes and drove it for a period of time.  I now get oxygen sensor errors 171 and 172 and 173.  I seem to have terrible mileage also.  After changing the vacuum reservoir, and still having O2 codes, I thought I needed a new O2 sensor.  With the new sensor in place and running the vehicle on the highway for ten minutes, the service light comes on and stays on.  I returned the sensor assuming I had a bad one.  The new sensor seemed to help for a while but now the light comes on steady again after ten minutes on the highway, always with O2 sensor codes.  I have also noticed that the vehicle starts much better in cold weather (-20) than it does in warm weather (around freezing temp).  In warmer weather the engine seems to start and then miss immediately, giving similar characteristics of a flooded engine until it restarts.  Any ideas would be appreciated.

Answer: Check the fuel pressure regulator, as it may need to be replaced.  Also, check the fuel pump pressure because we have found that the fuel pumps in each of the tanks can work one day and not the next.

Question:  1997 Ford F-150 truck mileage: 79,000.  The problem I'm having is with the fuel system. This is a problem that started all of a sudden.  The truck runs fine first thing in the morning but when it heats up it, starts to run suggest like it's not getting enough gas.  At a high speed (60 mph) it has a bad vibration.  We changed out the spark plugs and fuel filter, which was pretty well clogged up.  It ran fine for a while but seems to be a reoccurring problem.  I feel that I may have got some bad gas when my problems first started.  Any advise?

Answer:  Check the fuel filter again.  If plugged, you will want to flush out the fuel tanks and also check and clean the fuel pump pick-up screens.  Worse case scenario is you may have to replace both fuel pumps (they have to be replaced in pairs).

Question:  1998 Ford F-150 mileage: 90,000.  This is the first Ford that I've owned, so I'm not sure if this is something new or not.  I'm trying to grease my front suspension, and I can't find any grease fittings on the upper or lower ball joints.  In fact, I can only find one, on only one of the Idler arms.  I have been told that if there aren't any grease fittings, then there is a plug that needs to be removed, and a grease fitting installed.  Fine, however, there aren't any plugs either.  I have checked every part that I can see, or get my hand around and feel for. Is this something that can only be done by a dealer?

Answer:    You do not need to lube the upper and lower ball joints because they are sealed and permanently lubed.

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