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Question: 1995 Ford Explorer mileage: 137,000.  I am having a problem with the ABS system. Just before I come to a complete stop I feel the brakes pushing back and making a hissing sound. I'm not having any issues stopping at all. This morning the brakes didn't push back but the ABS light came on. Now the ABS light is off again and the brake is pushing back again. I've been told it's many issues from a bad sensor to air in the brakes.

Answer: Scan the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) for fault codes in the brake system but it sounds like you have a wheel sensor that is malfunctioning.

Question: 2003 Ford Explorer mileage: 33,000.  I purchased my Explorer with 19,000 miles on it. Living in a townhouse community I was never allowed to change my own oil so I always had it serviced at the local garage. Now having purchased a home I can now perform routine oil changes myself and enjoy the work. The last oil change performed at the garage was at twenty eight thousand. I then changed the oil at thirty one thousand. The info display on the dashboard has been warning me for a week or so that an oil change is necessary but it is two thousand too soon. I reviewed the glove box manual and it claims that oil should be changed every five thousand. To me the math makes sense I just don’t know how to reset the info display when I change the oil. Tell me I don’t have to rely on taking it somewhere every time I need my oil changed. There has to be a non computer hook up related solution to my problem right?

Answer: Right! To reset the display after an oil change, press the Setup button to access the System Check Function. Press and release the Reset control to display Oil Life % Hold Reset New on the message center. Press and hold Reset control for two seconds to display if new oil hold reset. Press and hold Reset control. If Oil Life Set to 100 % displays, oil life is now set.

Question: 2002 Ford Explorer mileage 43,000:  We are in the process of servicing the entire car. I was ready to dump the transmission fluid and change the filter, when a friend told me not to I don't know if the transmission has ever been serviced but the fluid is fairly clean and does not smell burned. The transmission shifts great and is quiet, should we leave it alone or change the fluid as planned?

Answer: Not knowing the service history of your car and because the fluid in your transmission looks clean and does not smell burnt, we suggest draining the fluid and replacing the transmission filter.

Question: 1996 Ford Explorer Mileage: 90,000.  Three years ago, beginning of winter 2000, I could not get enough heat in the cabin. Cool air coming out of the heater, engine temperature not rising normally and often falling quickly. Thermostat clearly stuck open. A local shop replaced the thermostat and problem fixed, lots of heat again, normal engine temps. Price $38.97. Later that winter, Feb. or March 2001 the current problem developed. The engine temperature would quickly climb normally, but I didn't seem to be getting enough heat in the cabin. I put my hand to the heat outflow ducts and could feel ALMOST warm air coming from the left duct, but very cool air coming out of the right (larger) duct. This would continue for up to fifteen minutes after the engine had reached normal running temperature. Then plenty of heat came from both ducts. The engine temperature did not change when the heat would finally start to flow. This problem continued intermittently throughout the remainder of the winter and the beginning of winter 2001. Sometime it seemed that I could cure the problem by manipulating the cabin temp selector full cold and full hot several times until, then, suddenly lots of heat. In December 2001, I bit the bullet and took it to the Ford dealer. They managed to reproduce the problem. They promptly berated me for putting a non-OEM (original equipment manufactured) thermostat in the engine. They told me the thermostat was the problem and replaced it. I was charged $189.44. The problem continued with absolutely no change whatsoever. Can you help me solve this before another winter arrives?

Answer: Check to see that the blend doors are not hanging up in the heater duct. If okay, check the coolant level in the radiator, not just the overflow tank. Do this when the engine is cold...you don’t want to take the radiator cap off when the engine is hot. If your car is equipped with a heater control valve, make sure to replace it.

Question: 1992 Ford Explorer 4x4 mileage: 63,000.  When turning left or right in 4-wheel drive, the wheels seem to bind [dry conditions]. One mechanic says to replace the u-joints, another one says the u-joints are fine. What do you think?

Answer: Part-time 4-wheel drive should not be engaged when driving on dry pavement. Check your owner's manual for further instructions relating to your specific vehicle.

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Question: 2002 Explorer mileage: 35,000.  I seem to have a problem related to moisture, but can't pin it down and the local dealer has been of no help. When driving my '99 Explorer when the roads are wet or snowy, occasionally the engine will "buck" or hesitate for just a split second. The frequency may vary from once every minute to only very occasionally and usually at speeds from forty and up. I've looked at plug wiring, exposed cabling, etc and can't find a thing. No code shows up when hooked up at the dealers, but then again, it doesn't do it when sitting at idle. Any ideas?

Answer: From what you have told us, we would suggest that you double check very closely the wiring around the engine. There may be one small area that has rubbed through causing the wiring to short out.

Question: 1996 Ford Explorer Eddie B. mileage: 70,000.  I have a 4x4 Explorer Eddie Bauer edition. Just this week my engine starting racing when I stepped on the accelerator. I was told the transmission needed replacing by the repair shop and it was a very common thing for a 1996 Explorer no matter what the mileage was. I have never heard of any recall problems by Ford. Is this a common thing to happen with this year of Explorer? I had a 1994 Explorer and never had it happen. In fact, one of my family members still has the car and has never had problems with transmission.

Answer: Yes, the transmission is different for 1996 over the 1994. You could, unfortunately, be ready for a transmission overhaul with only 70,000.

Question: 1999 Ford Explorer mileage: 95,000.  Recently I had my clutch replaced (89000), because it became very difficult to get into gear and it grinded going into reverse. The following work was done: remove transmission and clutch assembly, inspect and clean release fork, input shaft cover, flywheel and bell housing, inspect rear engine and transmission seals. Install clutch disc, pressure plate, release and pilot bearing. Reinstall transmission and top off fluid level. Remove and resurface flywheel, remount flywheel to crankshaft, remove existing rear main engine seal, install new seal, replace rear transmission rail and 3 rubber plugs. After the repairs, the clutch ran well for three and a half months. Then the same problems reoccurred. This time the shop bleed the hydraulic system, and the clutch worked for three more weeks and the original problem reoccurred. I spent $800 on this job and I want to be sure this shop is taking the proper approach. What do you think the problem maybe, as I am trying my best to keep from paying any more money, as the clutch remains under warranty?

Answer: Sounds like you are having problems with the clutch master cylinder and/or clutch slave cylinder, not the clutch itself.

Question: 1998 Ford Explorer mileage: 160,000.  The engine misses when cold or hot and black smoke and soot come out of the exhaust. I get three codes from the computer; 157,158,159 all deal with the mass airflow sensor. I've replaced the sensor and this still does not cure the problem. What else could be wrong?

Answer: Check the catalytic converter as it may be plugged. When a converter is plugged, the pressure in the exhaust system builds up to the point that the intake vacuum drops. This causes the mass airflow sensor to think there is a problem in the engine and set a code.

Question: 1998 Ford Explorer mileage: 40,000. The Explorer would not start. We jumped started the car and the ABS light came on. I am assuming this is referring to the Alternate Battery Source (alternator). The dashboard gauge for the battery is normal and not showing low voltage. Does this sound like the alternator?

Answer: ABS stands for antilock brake system. The "ABS" light will "light" when there is a malfunction in the braking system. The fault code is then stored in the computer. The computer must be scanned to retrieve these stored faults to pinpoint the malfunctioning component. Because the ABS light indicates something is wrong, a trip to you neighborhood automobile service center sooner rather than later is recommended. Your ABS system may not be functioning.

Question: 1998 Ford Explorer Sport 4WD mileage: 49,000. The problem just started a couple of days ago. I noticed no problems with the way the vehicle drives or handles, but the 4WD HI and 4WD LO lights on the dashboard periodically (every five to ten minutes) blink five times simultaneously. The dash is normal for five minutes, and then the lights blink again. This happens repetitively whether driving in town, on the highway, etc. Since it has been nice dry, summer weather, I have had the vehicle in 4WD AUTO the whole time. Is there any explanation for the blinking lights?

Answer: The flashing lights indicate a fault code is stored in the drive train control module. Retrieving the code will pinpoint the malfunctioning component.

Question: 1997 Ford Explorer xlt mileage: 54,000.  I recently purchased the vehicle and have noticed that the ride is very uncomfortable. There is shaking and I feel very bump in the road. Is this just because it’s a SUV? Another co-worker has the same problem, which makes me believe I am not alone. Also, it says its ALL Wheel Drive. What does that mean exactly. Some people said that it is a 4-wheel drive, but there is no knob to switch to 4 wheel.

Answer: Most SUV (sports utility vehicle) type vehicles do have a firm ride as they have the same suspension as light duty trucks. Your explorer is equipment with all wheel drive, which is always engaged, and there is no switch to disengage it.

Question: 1994 Ford Explorer mileage: 86,000.  This problem has been going on for the last six months. After the truck sets overnight, I start it and drive it for fifteen to thirty minutes and then shut it off to go into a store for five to ten minutes. I then get in it to start it up and it will start and try to idle at 200 & 600 RPM until it dies in three or four seconds. The engine shakes back and forth. I can then turn off the key and try it again, it will usually do it again. I will wait for three or four minutes and try it and it will usually start up. If I shut it off and try to start it, again- it will usually do the same thing. I have tried replacing the MASS AIR FLOW and no difference. The Check engine light will not come on. The only time the Check engine light will come on is when the truck is driven two or three hours. The codes set says "Rich on bank 1, Rich on bank 2, Lean on bank 1, Lean on bank 2". This does not happen every time; probably one out of ten times I start it. I was also told that it has a MAP sensor and I cannot find it at all, I have looked everywhere. Does this year have one? What do you think it could be? Also, is there software for a laptop that can be used to connect and read the sensor in real time? Like the OBD II

Answer: Try cleaning the idle passages and the idle speed motor. If this does not correct your problem, you may have some faulty fuel injectors that need replacing. Your vehicle does not have a MAP sensor. We know of no software that you can use with your laptop for the purpose you describe.

Question: 1993 Ford Explorer mileage: 77,000. When I engage the transmission either in reverse or drive the transmission emits a "groaning" sound as if something is rubbing. If I shift into neutral, the sound goes away. When I start to accelerate the groaning sound goes away. When warmed up the transmission intermittently makes the same groaning noise while at idle at a traffic light. The transmission shifts normally and has not lost any fluid. The manual doesn't specify any regular maintenance.

Answer: Your transmission may be ready for service. Replacing the filter and fluid may correct the problem.

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Question: 2002 Ford Explorer mileage: 50,000.  I've noticed the fuel pump running a little after I shut the engine off but lately it won't go off. A neighbor rang my doorbell last night and told me of the noise. I had to pull the fuel pump fuse in order to make it stop. Today I've been opening the hood at every place I go to pull the fuse. About one in ten times the pump will go off on its own. What's up? I know you guys have seen this before, haven't you?

Answer: Try replacing the fuel pump relay. It sounds like it is sticking.

Question: 1995 Ford Explorer XLT mileage: 56,000.  The car will lose idle under various conditions. For instance, when starting the auto after it has been sitting, the auto will stall because it won't stay idle. It may do this two to three times a month without any warning. Also, occasionally while driving, the auto will without warning lose idle when the accelerator is released. You can keep the auto running by keeping your foot on the accelerator. Finally, the auto will die while traveling at speeds of 45 mph or less in which the steering wheel will lock. All of the above only occur periodically. The dealership has replaced the fuel filter and checked all computer sensors without finding anything wrong. The dealership hooked up a recording device to record the problem whenever it occurred but it failed to record anything because the auto would go dead. Can you provide any information that we can pass along to the dealership to pinpoint this problem? Thank-you for this service.

Answer: A lazy idle speed motor may be causing your problem. Also, check fuel pump pressure and amperage draw.

Question: 1994 Ford Explorer mileage: 72,000.  When I first startup and put it in gear and give it gas, it doesn't move for a few seconds then I feel jerking feeling. Can this be a transmission problem? Thank you.

Answer: Your transmission may be ready for service. Replacing the filter and fluid may correct the problem.

Question: 1994 Ford Explorer mileage: 90,000.  When turning from a complete stop either right or left the rear end of the explorer sounds like its slipping. It makes sounds like the gears are grinding. I was told that the gears need to be replaced.

Answer:  Sounds like you may be having some problem with the differential gears. In the differential, there is a ring and pinion gear and “spider gears.” The spider gears allow the left and right rear wheel to turn at different speeds while going through a corner. They do not turn while going straight. Also check the transmission or transfer case if it is a four by four could be the problem, remove the drain plug from the transfer case and check for metal, and do the same for the transmission dip stick, also if you have front automatic locking hub ford has had problem with those in the past.

Question: 1996 Ford Explorer 98,000.  The front passenger brake pads wear out before all others! I have had to replace that rotor twice. Last time I replaced rotor (with only 10k miles on it) also replaced front caliper and pads all the way around. After about five thousand miles, front passenger pads completely worn and rotor badly grooved. There is no pull to the right and seems to be no drag. I know there has to be some brake applied to that wheel all the time but can't feel it in handling until its too late and pads and rotor is gone! Truck is equipped with ABS. Any suggestions?

Answer: Check to see that the caliper slides are free and not hanging up. In addition, check to make sure that the master cylinder is allowed to fully return and that the brake pedal linkage does not restrict it.

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