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Question: 1997 Ford Bronco, mileage: 132,000.  I rebuilt my power steering box. When I say rebuilt, I replaced all the seals that came in the rebuild kit. There are two problems; First I’m not getting full turning at the wheels, the steering wheel turns five full turns. Did I get something in wrong or second thing, it has a little growling sound when it's hot or cold. Fluid level is ok. The pump is new, purged & bleed. Growling sound only when turning. Please help!

Answer: Looks like you probably need to remove the steering box and replace with a different rebuilt unit.

Question: 1998 Ford Bronco, mileage: 120,000.  I need to replace the heater core and need step-by-step instructions as my hubby is an insulator not a mechanic. Any help would be very much appreciated.

Answer: First drain coolant from the cooling system, next, remove the heater coolant hoses, and then remove all the heater box mounting bolts (some are inside and some are in the engine compartment.) Remove the heater box (housing). You may have to loosen the dash to remove the heater box. Then disassemble the box to install the new heater core. Reverse the steps to install.

Question: 1996 Ford Bronco, mileage: 50,000.  My check engine light came on. A scan showed trouble codes P0133, P0135, P0141, P0153, P0155, and P0174 which all have to do with the 02 sensors. I replaced all three sensors. I am still getting P0135, P0141, and P0155 - heater circuit malfunction on all three sensors. My scanner shows that all of the sensors are operating once they warm up. Do you think it is a circuit problem, or do I need a new computer?

Answer: Check all the fuses. In addition, check for voltage to the oxygen sensor heater.

Question: 1994 Ford Bronco, mileage: 119,000.  If the engine is cold, it will start and run normally, but for only about one or two minutes. Suddenly, the engine "hesitates" and runs rough.  After another two minutes it will return to smooth operation. Where do I start?

Answer:  Your car may be ready for a major tune-up including spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, rotor, fuel filter and air filter.  Also, perform a fuel pump pressure test.  Clean fuel injection system including throttle bore, idle speed control motor and passages.  If problem still exists, scan computer for trouble codes.

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Question: 1987 Ford Bronco II,  mileage: 140,000.  It will not shift into 4-wheel drive.  My mechanic replaced the little motor on the transfer case but it still just clicks and does not engage.  This is one of those fancy "push the button on the roof" on the fly gismos, no locking hubs, etc. He said he tried swapping a couple of modules (one in the dashboard and another in the side panel behind the drivers seat), all to no avail.  The part he swapped cost $291. When it did not work he took it out and put the old one back in. This was greatly appreciated but I still do not have 4-wheel drive.  The mechanic says it is not the transfer case as he can shift it by hand with the motor removed and the little rod exposed.

Answer: Check wiring for damage.  Check ground wires for good connection.  Check the “push button on the roof” to see that it is working.  Finding electrical problems can be very frustrating and time consuming.

Question: 1989 Ford Bronco,  mileage: 140,000.  It is time to do major engine work, I am thinking of changing to a 351 (I need more torque to pull race trailer).  Would a 351 match up to the motor mounts and to the transmission (3 speed auto w/od)?  If it will how late of a model, can I go to?  If it won't should I expect it to be a major job to reposition the motor mounts and/or will the bell housing need to be changed?

Answer: Changing engine size is a bigger problem than getting the transmission to “bolt up.” The entire computer drives engine management controls will have to be changed also.  If you have to pass emission inspections in your state, the engine swap could lead to an even bigger problem.

Question: 1984 Ford Bronco.  We are trying to replace the rotors on the front wheels of the Bronco. We have pulled everything off from in front of the rotor, and still cant seem to get it off, is there some sort of extra clip or bolt that we need to take off?

Answer: We are assuming you have removed the nuts holding the wheel bearings. Sometimes, the inner wheel bearing “hangs-up” and needs a little extra pull.

Question: 1986 Ford Bronco, mileage: 131,000.  I just got it back from the transmission shop; it slams into gear.  So I took it back to have them adjust it.  The owner said I had a vacuum leak, and they could not adjust it properly, I bought new break booster (which I knew it needed) and all new vacuum hoses, and little plastic contoured (expensive) lines.  I took the Bronco back to have the adjustment done, owner told me the idle was too high and the timing was off.  Corrected timing, in parking lot of shop, and reset idle speed.  Then of course it started over heating.  New radiator (which was also needed) and fan clutch.  Then had to reset timing and idle again.  Took the Bronco back the fourth time, and he would still not put it on the lift because the rear breaks were shot (no E-brake).  I went back home, did the rear breaks, and put new shocks on the rear.  I took it back, he told me there is nothing wrong with the transmission and that there was too much play in the rear-end.  Rebuilt the rear end, new ring and pinion gears, rest of differential was reused. Not as much play in the rear-end, the flange moves less than 1/2 inch, but transmission still slams into gear and worse when shifting from D to R.  I had the drive shaft rebuilt already by a local machine shop, which he said did not need it, but I had them do it any way.  I am still having the same problem.  Is there a way that I can adjust the transmission myself, or can you think of anything that would make it do this that I have over looked, I am getting ready to take the Bronco back down for a sixth time to the transmission shop and want to know all the options I have. By the way, I am really upset that a paid $1300 for the rebuild, and it came with a warranty, but the car still gives you whip lash when putting it in gear.   Thanks in advance. 

Answer: The only thing we can think of is a broken or missing servo spring.  The spring slows the servo piston movement for mild gear engagement.

Question: 1990 Ford Bronco Full-size, mileage: 114,000.  The truck ran real rough at idle and smelled of heavy exhaust. Also, it got bad gas mileage and hesitated at highway speeds. Pulled the codes and it showed a bad oxygen sensor.  I replaced sensor and truck still ran real rough. I checked the EGR valve with vacuum, when vacuum was applied the idle would get rough, and the EGR would hold the vacuum.  Also, I am getting the correct voltage to it from the computer. When I cleaned the Idle Air Control Valve with carburetor cleaner and then put it, back on it would run perfectly smooth for about fifteen seconds then the idle would get rough again.  When I tried driving the truck it shook horribly and finally choked to death down the street.  So now, it's totally dead and won't start at all!  It turns over fine but it won't fire up.  I checked for spark at the end that's good; wonder if I should look at the fuel systems next?  Also, tried to get a voltage from the IAC valve but didn't get an accurate reading, I want to be sure what part it is before I spend the $81.00 for it.  Could the IAC cause a problem this severe?

Answer: We do not think the IAC could be the problem. Check the fuel system, the fuel pump and the fuel pressure regulator.

Question: 1993 Ford Bronco, mileage: 160,000.  I’m not sure if my EGR is bad. Current problems are rough idle, bad mileage, engine missing at high speed when climbing a hill & temperature. Fluctuates while driving.  At idle its fine. When cold I hear a high-pitched noise (almost like a air leak) until it warms up. All of the vacuum hoses are fine. What other symptoms would EGR give?

Answer: Your car may be ready for a major tune-up including spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, rotor, fuel filter and air filter.  Also, perform a fuel pump pressure test.  Clean fuel injection system including throttle bore, idle speed control motor and passages.  If problem still exists, scan computer for trouble codes.

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Question: 1984 Ford Bronco II 4wd, mileage: 135,000.  Reverse went out but the other gears work fine. I was told it was either the rear band or a servo. My question is if it is a servo where is that located and how can I tell?

Answer:  Sounds like you are ready for a transmission overhaul. The reverse band and servo are inside the transmission. In order to tell if your problem is the servo, you need a transmission specialist to run a diagnostic.

Question: 1966 Ford Bronco, mileage: 175,000.   I have a new engine and have replaced the fuel filters/fuel pump/ fuel line drained the tank and cleaned it replaced the intake to carburetor gaskets and all vacuum line and checked the timing.  It idles fine but when I try to accelerate down the road it acts like it is starving for fuel and the gas filter goes almost dry.  If I disconnect the fuel line between the carburetor and the filter, it seems to be pumping plenty of fuel.  If it is the carburetor, can I replace it with a new one instead of a rebuilt (autolite 1100/1101 1 barrel) help?

Answer: Scope the engine and check point dwell and coil output. Check fuel pump pressure.  A new carburetor should work just as good as a rebuilt one.

Question: 1992 Ford Bronco, mileage: 90,000.  Would you be able to tell me where to look to fix my truck? First of all, it idles rough, then when I put it into gear it stalls, there is black stuff on the ground after starting it and letting it run a bit. The spark plugs and wires are new, also replaced the cap and rotor.  It almost idles like its got bad fuel in it, but I put fuel treatment in it and that didn't help.Please tell me where to look next.

Answer: We would suggest a compression check.  Also, check for vacuum leaks.

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