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Question: 1993 Dodge Ram Charger mileage: 136,000. There is no problem when vehicle is under power, on a straight away or uphill. However, there is this irritating vibration when I coast. I figure it's a driveline problem, worn gearing, or u-joints? Vibration seems to be coming from the rear of vehicle, but I'm not sure. The problem is only noticeable at freeway speeds (55-65 mph).

Answer: Check the U-joints as you may have one that is worn and gets out of alignment while coasting. This would account for the vibration you described.

Question: 1992 Dodge Ram Charger mileage: 149,000. I’ve had an alignment, new rims and tires, and it still wanders on the Interstate, and pulls to the right. Could it be the steering box, or just bushings? What do you think?

Answer: When the alignment was done, was the front-end checked for worn components because it sounds like there are some loose bushings and or ball joints.

Question: 1992 Ram Charger 2 wheel drive mileage: 185,000. I have only front brakes and have determined that it is a problem with the RWAL system , the antilock light in the dash stays on and I have replaced the speed sensor and the speed sensor wire harness from the speed sensor to the first junction and still the problem persists. I have checked the condition of all the brakes and they are fine.

Answer: The anti-lock brake valve probably is causing the problems you described. Replacing it should fix your problem.

Question: 1990 Dodge Ram Charger mileage: 130,000. It is running above normal temperature, I have changed radiator, clutch fan, water pump, hoses, thermostat, and I am not losing any water. I have pressure tested the cooling system, cooling fan has been changed to a seven blade fan, took a compression test and had 150 -160 all the way across except two cylinders which were 125 each. What else can I do to fix this problem?

Answer: With a separate temperature gauge, verify that your vehicle is actually running hot. With everything you replaced, it should be running at a normal temperature.

Question: 1993 Dodge Ram Charger mileage: 127,000. I turned off the ignition key and the truck kept on running. It felt like something broke as I turned it back. I was told that there is a rack that the ignition sits in and that it may have broken or could be adjusted. Could you offer any direction?

Answer: Drop the steering column down and inspect for proper operation of rack and switch. The switch may be faulty.

Question: 1990 Dodge Ram Charger mileage: 104,000. From the time the vehicle first starts to move I hear a whir, whir, whir, etc, etc that increases in frequency as the vehicle speed increases. I’ve had the drive shaft universals replaced as well as the transfer case replaced. With the truck up on jack stands, there is very little noise. While driving down the road the sounds seems to be coming more toward the front of the vehicle, but I’m not positive.

Answer: It sounds like you have a tire noise or bad wheel bearings.

Question: 1992 Dodge Ram Charger mileage: 125,000. I recently took my charger to a mechanic because of a annoying noise and a loss of oil pressure. He changed the main bearings and rod bearings. I took it back the same day because it is still losing oil pressure and the noise is still there. The truck is idling about 10 pounds of oil pressure and at running speed it is about 25 pounds. I paid about 1100.00 dollars to have this truck worked on but I don’t feel that I got my moneys worth.

Answer: You should also replace the oil pump when the work was done. If not, the oil pressure relief valve may be stuck open causing low oil pressure. The engine noise may be in the valve train.

Question: 1993 Dodge Ram Charger. This vehicle does not have California emissions on it. The EGR system failed the California smog test, and my husband was informed that the EGR passages needed to be cleaned. Is this a job I could handle (I do have some mechanical experience) and if so, where can I get information on how to do it?

Answer: Cleaning the EGR system is not too difficult. Two bolts secure the valve. Removing the valve will expose the EGR passages. A stiff wire should work to open the passages. With the EGR valve off, apply vacuum to check that the valve opens and closes.

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