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Dodge Intrepid Car Repair Questions and Answers

Question: 2000 Dodge Intrepid mileage: 76,000. I replaced the steering rack in October because it had gone bad.  Now in January, the steering is not working, seemed like the pump had gone bad.  Took it to local trusted mechanic.  He replaced the pump, said it didn't look bad when he opened it up.  Steering still does not work however.  He replaced the pump 4 times, and replaced the rack twice (luckily he didn't charge me anything because he couldn't fix the problem).  The steering works fine at first, but then after a while it doesn't work.  It seems not to work when driving slowly around a parking lot, and I have to rev the engine to get it to turn.  My last option is to take it to the dealer, which I hate to do since they way overcharge.  Can you think of anything else to replace or check before I go to the dealer?

Answer: Since you have already replaced the power steering pump and rack several times, we can fairly assume this is not your problem.  So, check the power steering hoses, both high and low pressure, for blockage or restrictions.

Question: 2001 Dodge Intrepid mileage: 35,000. Check engine light stays on. Code reads out as leak detection module. Has been replaced four times. Light comes back on after about one hour. Car stalls at lights...RPMs go down first, then stalls. Very difficult to restart...just turns over. Eventually, one click of the key and it will start. We have been forced to keep our feet on the gas when we break at traffic lights or stop signs so it won't die out. Cannot seem to get any answers from Dodge or Dodge dealers as to what it can be.

Answer: The code you mentioned indicates a problem in the fuel vapor recovery system. Check for a loose case cap, cracked or loose vapor hoses, faulty purge relay or purge solenoid. The module is probably alright.

Question: 1998 Dodge Intrepid mileage 81,000. Sometimes the car won't start, even though it cranks fine. Eventually it fires up, for some reason. I shut it off and try to make it happen again but it won't. Sometimes it simply shuts off at speed; it can be at 50 mph or at 30. It doesn't seem to discriminate. My wife says she has seen the cruise light come on sometimes when it stalls. It usually starts right back up, but sometimes you have to fight with it. My wife says if you really crank on the key, it seems to start the first try. Do I need to replace the ignition switch? How do I check the crank and cam sensor? I have a sensor tester and have checked the TPS, map and idle control valve. The dealer has been no help at all; they claim there's nothing wrong with this car. There are no error codes when it dies. I need to fix this before it dies 100 miles from home and decides not to restart. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Answer: Finding the reason why a car occasionally dies or won't start is a matter of trial and error. When the car won't start, check for spark and check for fuel. There are several things that can fail that will not store an error code in the computer. The ignition switch that you mentioned is a possibility. Another is the fuel pump. A faulty wire connection can also be the culprit just to name a few.

Question: 1999 Dodge Intrepid mileage: 84,000. My Intrepid's symptoms: 1. It quits running at any time usually within the first 30 minutes of being started from cold. Problem so far has not happened after the engine has been running for longer than this. 2. Using a code reader I find that the No. 11 - Ignition Reference Signal - fault code is set and no other code. Furthermore, this seems to only happen when the engine completely quits. If it just stumbles and does not quit no fault code is set. Actions taken: Assuming that the fault code may be a result of the engine shut down and not the cause, I have replaced some easy items like the fuel filter and the Auto Shutdown Relay. It has stumbled once since then so I think that the problem is not solved. Other questions: Does the 1994 Intrepid have a separate Ignition Module and where is it? I was told it did not. (I inherited the car and don't know it well yet).

Answer: First check the ignition switch. If this is okay, replace the cam and crank angle sensors and the ignition coil pod. The ignition module is not separate. It is part of the computer.

Follow-up: Thanks for the reply guys. It turned out to be the crank angle (position) sensor for your information. 

Question: 2001 Dodge Intrepid mileage: 82,000. Recently tuned up car - new plugs, filters, oil, etc - took trip (500 miles and every thing ran smooth). Driving home - stepped up speed from 50 to about 70 (fast revved only to about 5500 rpms) and the engine started making a loud clacking/clicking sound - like a lifter or rocker arm might have blown. Looking over the engine, I've found both a fuel leak (Chrysler has a recall to replace O rings & fuel rails on the '93 intrepid 3.5 liter engine) and a radiator leak. The fuel leak is on the right front side (probably near or at piston #1). And I'm still looking for the radiator fluid leak (Replaced the oil - no radiator fluid) - also checked the spark plugs, they were rather carbon fouled (cleaned with wire brush, re-gapped, re-installed). Also found water dripping from the exhaust when the car reaches operating temp... Engine starts & idles fine, but still get that loud clacking noise on the right side. Could it be I've blown a lifter, or possibly had the piston hit & bend a valve? Thanks for sharing all the great info on the internet!!!

Answer: A broken valve spring could be causing your problem. Also, check for a blown head gasket.

Question: 2002 Dodge Intrepid mileage: 26,000. After 200 miles of driving at 70 MPH, my Intrepid began missing, the check engine light started blinking, and eventually died. After a couple minutes, it restarted, but ran very rough till I got it to a station. Man suggested bad gas. I topped off the tank and after about 15 minutes got underway again for another 25 miles with no other problems until I got to my destination. The check engine light eventually went off. I drove around town for 3 days (no long drives) with no additional problems. Once I headed for home on the interstate, after about 30 miles the same problem arose. I coasted to a station, topped off the tank and headed out again. After about 20 miles, same problem. This time I just waited about 10 minutes and headed out again. After about 20 more miles I had the same problem. It seems that after cooling down, the car would run fine for about 20 miles, then the problem would come up again. The manual says a blinking "check engine" light is a bad catalytic converter. Dodge technician says a bad fuel pump. Converter is under warranty, fuel pump is not. Any suggestions?

Answer: From what you have described, your problem does not sound like it could be the catalytic converter. The check engine light indicates a malfunction in the engine management system which will store a fault code. Scan the computer to retrieve the codes before replacing the fuel pump.

Question: 1996 Dodge Intrepid mileage: 125,000. Hi Gentlemen, I'm scared to death to take my car to the local dealer because when my car was a Company Car, they did THOUSANDS of dollars worth of unnecessary repairs on separate occasions, including a new transmission it did not need ($2800). A wiper blade-motor/PCB it did not need. There's more. My company paid for it, so I complained only in a friendly way. Now I own this former Company Car and I can't afford to get worked-over. Problem is this: I have 125,000 miles, steering to the right I can turn the steering wheel 1/4 of the way, without anything happening. Turning left is much better, but still have to turn it more then usual. I feel like I'm driving on ice with this thing. Other then that, I love that car. If you have an idea what it takes to repair, is that something that MUST be done by a dealer, or can I take it somewhere else? What is the estimated cost?

Answer: We have worked on several Intrepids with your symptoms. They all had worn out steering tie-rod ends. There are two and they are approximately $85.00 each. The labor should run between $120.00 to $180.00 Dollars. If you are uncomfortable taking it back to the dealer, check with friends and neighbors to help you locate a mechanic you can trust.

Question: 1999 Chrysler Intrepid  mileage: 107,000. Hi, I've got 2 problems, 1 is almost similar in your FAQ, but not quite: FAQ:"1990 Dodge Ram 250 4x 5.2 mileage: 140,000. Truck will start and run fine then die going down the road and will not start. The next day it will start and run fine for a while and die again. I replaced the fuel filter, distributor cap, rotor, and cam-sensing unit. Answer: It appears you may have a faulty fuel pump." Problem 1: about 2-3 min after start, a soft knock may be heard, detectable inside the car with windows up. You have to listen real hard to figure out where it is coming from with the opened hood. This never seemed to be a problem, even though it is constant, sometimes annoying and its frequency elevates in exact proportion with acceleration. Oil level OK. Nobody could tell what might be wrong, so I just tried to forget about it. I never had any problems with engine or any other "major" stuff. Problem 2: Today stopped at the red light, oil sign flashed for a second and engine died. I was able to start it once again immediately, but it would not run idle, unless I increase rpm from 450-500 to 700. At 700 rpm engine was running idle for 6 hours - not a hiccup. Hot start-no problem, but it wants the same 700-rpm or more to keep itself alive. Slight unusual vibration of the engine can be seen. Questions: could you give me at least a probability of what might be wrong? Would you recommend to take the car to the dealership or I still have chance to save some $$ taking alternative route?

Answer: About the problem re: the soft knock, it is impossible for us to help you here without listening to the engine ourselves. As for your idling problem, check all the vacuum hoses and intake manifold gaskets as you might have a slight vacuum leak somewhere. In addition, check the idle speed control motor to make sure it is operating properly. If all checks out okay, scan the computer for fault codes.

Addendum: I took the car to a dealer; they cleaned the throttle and did not find anything else what might be wrong. In other words they didn't find a particular problem but fixed what needed service anyway. Idle speed is back to normal, with or without AC. Computer testing results-OK. See what happens next... but I'll definitely keep in mind your suggestions for future failures.... Soft knock was attributed to the "environmental valve" and they said it is normal. Whatever. Thanks once again. I wonder with all these dumb questions in thousands of e-mails...do you have time to sleep at all.

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