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Chevy Suburban Car Repair Questions and Answers

Question: 2002 Chevrolet Suburban mileage 54,000: Third and forth gear went out at 39,000 miles. Had transmission rebuilt. Old transmission had intermittently noticeable 1-2 shifts. Rebuilt has good 1-2 shifts and violent 1-2 shifts. Truck usually starts out with good 1-2 shifts and migrates into violent 1-2 shifts, but there doesn't seem to be any solid consistency to this pattern. One transmission mechanic using his Sun diagnostic unit saw a 1-2 error with a shift rate of .28. MAP, TBS, EGR, and everything else ok. Truck starts fine and engine has been checked. All other electrical seems to be fine. No accident history. Any ideas on where to go next?

Answer: We think it would be a faulty valve body in the transmission.

Question: 1998 Chevy Suburban mileage: 100,000. The problem is that when I started my truck today there was a motor running under the left side driver’s seat that didn’t sound correct and then my ABS light came on. After turning the truck off and removing the key, the motor kept on making noise. I determined it was my ABS Pump so I removed the ABS fuse from the main box and it stopped. I drove the truck in my parking lot and the brakes worked but then flagged the emergency brake. When I put the fuse back in the pump continued to make noise. What has happened to this pump that it would run with the car off?

Answer: A faulty ABS module will cause the problem you described. Unfortunately, it won’t help to just replace the module. Both the pump and the module most be replaced as a unit. Just so you are not taken off guard, this is an expensive fix.

Question: 1997 Chevrolet Suburban 350 mileage 110,000: One day I stopped my suburban and went inside. A couple of hours later, I went back outside to leave, and it wouldn't start. So, I looked around for the source of the problem and I found that it wasn't getting any fuel. I found out the fuel pump wasn't working, it just went out. So I changed the fuel pump. After that I started it up and it idled just fine. But if I would rev it up it seemed to get bogged down and backfire.d the So I checke sensors, and I also hooked up a code scanner to it, it said there was a problem with the O2 sensors. So I changed them, that was $180. That didn’t solve my problem. So I did some tests on the pollution devices and different sensors, but they all checked out. So, I called a mechanic he said it may be the fuel pressure regulator, so I changed that, and that didn’t fix it. So, I took it to a shop and they said they had it narrowed down to the Throttle Position Sensor, the wires from the sensor to the computer, or the computer. So I changed the TPS and it didn't solve the problem. I got a call from the shop a while ago and they can't solve the problem. I was hoping you could possibly give me some ideas on it.

Answer: First check for a plugged fuel filter if it was not changed with the pump. Next, double check the part numbers on the fuel pump as you may have the wrong pump. Finally, check for plugged catalytic converters.

Question: 1997 Chevy Suburban 350 ci mileage: 60,000. I’m having transmission shift problems. When I first start it up and drive, it shifts great. After about 25 minutes of driving and stopping at a stop sign then pulling out, it shifts hard into 2nd gear. If I stop for 5 minutes, say at a gas station, then pull out, it shifts great again. It’s like, after it heats up to a good operating temperature it shifts hard but when I stop for a few minutes it fixes the problem for a few more miles. Richard

Answer: The solenoid that controls the shift from first to second in your transmission is probably hanging up and may need to be replaced. However, try servicing the transmission with a new filter and fluid first.

Question: 1997 Chevy Suburban 2500 Diesel mileage: 93,000. When you step on the brake, the #1 fuse blows which not only controls the brake lights but also the flashers and buzzer. I spent 4 hours at the Chevy Dealership yesterday. They checked the wire connections from under the hood to the rear of the vehicle. They replaced the brake switch and the directional switch located in the steering column with NO positive results. ANY IDEAS WHAT THE PROBLEM MIGHT BE?

Answer: Most Suburbans were equipped with an extra wiring harness for connecting trailer lights. Check out that harness as it may be causing your problem.

Question: 1999 Chevrolet Suburban K1500 Mileage: 72,000. On several occasions (3 so far in the last 45 days), I have had no success in starting my wonderful machine. 1st time far out of town - they replaced the fuel filter, 2nd time, at a local shop they replaced the battery, third time out of town again they reset the PCM (power control module) and said the PCM experienced a spike and it needed to be reprogrammed. The story that I get is that there is a theft deterrent built into the PCM that automatically shuts down the electrical system - in my particular case this reads - fuel pump. Incidentally, the fuel pump was replaced at 64,000 by a Chevrolet Dealer (Ouch $ - so much for extended warranties). The behavior of the car is such that it will not start for a couple of hours - long enough to get AAA to tow it to a local garage. Where, if it sits just the right amount of time before they look at it - it starts normally (this is what I am doing with my car right now - letting it sit for a number of hours) they call me and ask me what seems to be the problem with the car as it just started for them. They hook up the diagnostic harness and get the PCM log file - the last guy reset it and I'm on my way for about $100 plus tow. Since this pattern is repeated, there must be something in the software program or the hardware design of the PCM that is telling my car to shut down the fuel pump. In the absence of a great local mechanic, what are your thoughts on this truck's behavior? Thanks!

Answer: Normally we would suspect a fuel pump failure. However, because it was replaced only 8000 miles ago, check the ignition module that is located next to the ignition coil.

Question: 997 Chevy Suburban 5.7 mileage: 87,000. I'm having problems with the antilock brakes. My mechanic has tested the system. The brake system activates just before coming to a stop. The system has three sensors. The front sensors read zero below 8 miles per hour. The back sensor reads right to zero. They have called GM and have not got a response. The truck is almost not drivable in bad weather (snow). The pads are good and the shoes are too. The rotors were replaced at around 70,000 miles. The truck is 4 wheel drive. The front sensors are in the wheel bearing assembly.

Answer: It sounds like you have a bad front ABS sensor. Check the output with a volt meter.

Question: 1999 Chevy/Suburban mileage: 104,000. Last July my rear air went out, after that I started having weird problems. You could hear the blinker blink through the radio, the needle that registers charging or not would say it was not charging, the windows would roll down slow, (Electric) the blinkers would blink slow and if you locked the doors with the car on the lights on the inside would dim. My husband is not a mechanic...but he got out the book for his 97 Chevy pick up...the ignition switch was delaying to turn on too...he pulled the steering wheel off and replaced the ignition switch. The other problems seem to go away...except for one window...it will roll down a little then it is like you have to let it cool off or set then it will go a little further? Any idea of what is going on?

Answer: Good job troubleshooting your bad ignition switch. Your remaining problem sounds like a faulty power window motor or a window that is binding in the tract.

Question: 1996 Suburban 3/4 ton 454 mileage: 120,000. This is about my rear axle and rear brakes. I had a leak on my rear passenger-side axle for quite some time. I didn't know if it was the axle seal that was leaking or the brake cylinder. It was very small and it finally quit. Since I planned a 1500-mile trip, I was going to have it looked at and, while they were at it, have my emergency brake also fixed because the cables were frozen in place and I couldn't apply the emergency brake. I went to a major chain repair shop. The axle is of the fully floating axle type where you have to pull the drive shaft before you can pull the brake drums. The leak problem was the seal on the drive shaft on the passenger side of the car. When the mechanic pulled the driver's side shaft, he let me know that the bearings were dry, but they were still good. He replaced both wheel cylinders, new brake shoes and hardware, and put new seals on both sides of the axle. He told me that he could not fix the emergency brake because the replacement part was a dealer item. So, he put it all together and I went on my way. After I drove a block I came right back and asked him if he put any new lubricant in the rear axle housing since I knew the rear axle seal was leaking on the passenger side. He told me that he checked it and there was enough oil in it. I drove the car the next day about 10 miles or so and my right passenger side rear drum was very hot to the point that I could smell it inside the car. I went back to the mechanic and he told me not to worry because it takes 1,000 miles for the brakes to break in. Then I went on my trip. I got about 500 miles of highway driving and I had a major rear wheel bearing failure on the driver's side of the car-the side where he said the bearing was running dry. As I was driving at highway, speed the axle completely failed and I had to be towed to the shop. I went to the same chain repair shop. They told me they had to replace the axle and they also told me that the mechanic should never have hooked up the emergency brake since it was frozen in a partially applied position. Could you please comment and give me your opinion on what could have gone wrong on that driver's side-wheel bearing and why it may have failed? Al

Answer: The rear wheel bearings are lubricated by the gear lube in the differential by centrifugal force when you go around corners. If the level of the gear lube in the differential is low, it will severely limit the amount of gear lube available to the wheel bearings. We do not understand how the emergency brake dragging could cause wheel-bearing failure. When wheel bearings fail the axle housing drops causing the brakes to drag on the brake drums.

Question: 1994 Chevy Suburban 4x4 350 mileage: 121,000. Shifts hard (or slams is more like it) when put in drive from park or neutral. Seems to take a little more time than it used to on the fist shift sequence, but runs thru the next shifts to overdrive just fine. When at cruising, speed if slight gas petal applied it vibrates so bad it feels as if the rear end is coming out. Let off the gas or give more gas and it stops vibrating. Any ideas---I have changed the u-joints and also had to replace the catalytic converter (so I replaced the o2 sensor just in case.) Help! I am scheduled to take it to the dealer tomorrow for diagnostics and really don't want to if it can be avoided. Thanks Jay

Answer: Scan the power train control module and clear any fault codes that may be there. If the transmission continues to function improperly, you may have to have it overhauled.

Question: 1998 Chevy Suburban 4x4 350 mileage: 80,000. The seal, on the driveline yoke on the rear-end, throws grease onto the muffler. Is it difficult to change the seal and what are the torque specs on retightening the nut that holds the yoke into the rear-end? I am mechanical enough to change this. I need to know if something will go wrong when I pull the yoke and can I re-torque the nut. Thank you

Answer: Theoretically you should disassemble the ring and pinion and replace the crush sleeve on the pinion shaft. What you might try is to mark the end of the pinion shaft and the nut for reference. After replacing the seal, tighten the nut back to the marked location.

Question: 1991 Chevrolet/suburban v8 mileage: 136,000. I have an electrical problem. I can't get the dash lights to work, and when I change the fuse, it lasts about five minutes and then blows again. The buzzer would not shut off, so I disconnected it. I need help and fast! PLEASE!

Answer: After a discussion, we think the problem may be a short in the plug for trailer lights. (Hope you have a trailer plug).

Question: 1995 Chevrolet Suburban 305 mileage: 105,000. Rusted around top of water pump. Metal hose connected to it. Car is over heated.

Answer: If the water pump were loosing coolant, then the leak would cause your car to overheat. Replacing the water pump should fix your problem.

Question: 1986 Chevy suburban 5.7, mileage: 112,000. Loose motion in steering column. You can move the steering wheel left and right and also up and down (has tilt steering) What could be the problem?

Answer: The bearing in the steering column may need to be replaced.

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