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Chevy S10 Truck Repair Questions and Answers

Question: 1999 Chevy 4x4 5 spd. Mileage: 115,000. My S-10 Blazer stumbled due to fuel starvation, and died along the highway in the middle of the Arizona desert last week. Fuel is no longer being delivered to the TBI (throttle body injection). Fuel pump is new but does not come on when the cars ignition is turned on. All wires going to the pump are in good order. Replaced the fuel pump relay but no help. Put a test light on the relays contacts and found one wire was hot with the ignition on. Cannot find a fused link in the engine compartment and all fuses in the passenger compartment looked OK although I found none marked fuel pump. What is wrong with my Blazer?

Answer: First, check all the fuses while under load. Next check for 12 volts to the fuel pump as you may have a faulty fuel pump even though recently replaced. Finally, scan the computer for false codes if the first two check okay.

Question: 2000 Chevrolet/S10 pickup mileage: 70,000. When my gas tank is less than half full, the truck will not start. If the engine turns over, the truck shakes and sputters and dies. I replaced the fuel filter but the truck will still not start if the gas is less than half a tank. If the truck is running, it will not stall. Once stopped though, the automobile will not crank again though. Do you think that it is the fuel pump or the sending unit?

Answer: It is probably the fuel pump. Test it by checking the fuel pressure. Also, check the fuel pick-up that is inside the gas tank.

Question: 1987 Chevy S10 blazer  mileage: 178,000. I'm having a "surging" problem on my old S10 blazer with 2.8. I've already replaced the TPS, Oxygen sensor, rebuilt the throttle body, and installed a transmission oil cooler to help fix another problem it's having with staying in overdrive and constantly wants to downshift. The problem also seems to get worse as the fuel level goes down. The gas mileage is a little better, but I'm still getting this "surging" which is also aggravating the transmission problem. Anyhow, I'm now in the process of replacing the in-tank fuel pump. Before I completely re-installed the tank, I thought I would try to run the pump in a pan of gas to make sure everything was working. It worked okay. To make sure though that the "real world" output was okay, I then installed the pump in the tank with a few gallons of fuel in it. I then ran the pump again with the tank level lying on the ground, but the pump's output now "surged" again to the same frequency I've been experiencing when driving the truck k. It sounds like the pump cavitates and then "loads down" as the screen picks up fuel again for a few seconds and then cavitates again. When driving, it does this surging especially the lower the fuel gets. I've got a feeling now that this fuel pump replacement isn't going to fix this problem. I checked to ensure that the pumps pickup is reaching all the way to the bottom of the tank (it's okay). The only thing I can think of is that there was either a recall of the fuel-tanks/fuel pump systems which was never done on this truck or the fuel tank/fuel pump in my truck are incompatible or wrong or something.

Answer: When we replace fuel pumps on S10 Blazers, we remove the accumulator that is located directly above the fuel pump and replace it with a longer hose.

Question: 1994 Chevy S-10, manual shift truck. I don't know that much about automotive work and I'd appreciate your advice. I had the clutch replaced one year ago, not sure exactly what parts they replaced, but its a new clutch. After driving the truck for a while I noticed the same type screeching noise coming from the clutch when it is pressed down. This noise however only occurs if the vehicle has been driven for approx 15 minutes and is more noticeable in the summer time. I took it in to the local dealership and they said they would have to drop the transmission, and replace the pivot ball and fork, which they think may be the problem. However, a second opinion says it may be the master cylinder for the clutch. From the info I was given which would you say the problem is? I know you haven't seen or heard the truck when the clutch is pressed in but I think it is getting worse. Can you give me a quick reference as to what the problem is: the pivot ball and fork, or the master cylinder for the clutch?

Answer: Hard to diagnose a screech from here but it sounds like a misaligned clutch release bearing caused by a worn pivot ball and/or fork. It could be that just the bearing itself is bad. It is possible that the master cylinder for the clutch may not be fully releasing the clutch, but rather doubtful.

Question: 1996 Chevy S-10 mileage: 80,000. My truck had a factory 'recall' for a head gasket problem. I took it into the car dealer 1 month ago and they said it needed to be replaced. The only problem I had with my truck at that time was having to add antifreeze quite frequently. No other problems. While it was in, they called me to say I needed a tune up. I told them I had one last fall. They called and said I needed a water pump. I finally agreed to that after they dropped the price from $400 to $200. They then called and told me I needed to change my oil. I told them I could get my boyfriend to do that. Now, 4 weeks later, while driving down the interstate, my oil gauge went to zero and I immediately pulled the truck off and turned it off. There was no oil in it. We put in 5 quarts of new oil. The dealership now says that they only changed the head gasket and the blown engine is my fault. That they did not change my oil when they did the head gasket, did not add any, and they did not tell me that I could ruin the engine if I didn't have an oil change done immediately. Other mechanics I contacted told me it is pretty much standard practice to change the oil when replacing the head gasket. Please help...

Answer: We are very sorry to here about your regrettable experience. When the factory has a recall on a problem like your head gasket, the factory picks up the cost and reimburses the dealer for parts and labor. The factory will not pay for an oil change. The reason it is recommended that the oil be changed at the time a head gasket is replaced is that coolant may get into the oil during the process. If your car had no oil in it when you left the dealer, your oil light would have been on and you would have gotten no more than 100 yards before the engine seized. We strongly recommend to our customers that they check their oil on a regular basis, no less than every other tank of gas as a preventative measure. If you wait until the oil light comes on, it is too late. The dealer should have impressed upon you the need for an oil change sooner than later.

Question: 1991 Chevy S10 Pickup Extended Standard mileage: 160,000. I can't remember the size of the engine. I think it's a 6-cylinder, not sure. Standard transmission. Is there a way to adjust the clutch? I have no play in the pedal, and it's becoming increasingly hard to get the truck in gear, especially when it's cold. My partner (who could probably say more relevant things about it) says he's looked at it and can't find how to adjust the clutch. He thinks the clutch is okay but just needs adjustments.

Answer: There is no adjustment on the clutch linkage. If you have not replaced the clutch in 160,000 miles, then you've definitely got your money's worth and are ready for a new clutch.

Question: 1997 Chevy S10 extended cab mileage: 36,000. I have a 97' Chevy truck. The fuel gauge reads full, empty, or basically, whatever it wants to. It moves very slowly during start-ups and usually registers completely opposite of what I believe it should read. What is the most likely problem? Can I free up the sending unit (float?), or should I replace it. Does the entire unit (fuel pump, filter, sending unit float) come as one piece?

Answer: The fuel sending unit in the fuel tank is probably faulty. It is separate from the fuel pump.

Question: 1997 Chevy S10  mileage: 62,000. I have a 97 Chevy s10 zr2 with 62k on it. It's been trouble free for the most part but lately I have noticed that the clutch pedal feels like it has about 1.5 to 2" of free pedal travel before you feel it engage the pressure plate. This usually happens when the truck has been sitting for a while. During the course of driving the pedal will come back up and feel normal. I checked the clutch master cylinder reservoir and it was a little low. In fact, it sucked down the rubber thing. So I filled it up and thought that would do the trick. This morning it proved me wrong. I started to check for leaks both inside the truck and under the hood at the master cylinder. No leaks. And, there is no apparent leak at the transmission. I don't think it is leaking because the fluid level has not changed. My question is, am I overlooking something here? And, has anyone had this same problem with their S10?

Answer: You probably have a clutch master cylinder that is starting to fail.

Question: 1998 Chevy S-10 mileage: 32,000. Just replaced factory brake pads with Raybestos Brute Stop Carbon Enhanced pads. Rotors were still in good shape, no blue marks or deep grooves. I scuffed rotor surfaces with 80 grit sand paper and applied anti-squeak to back of pads. Also used the supplied stick-on pads to the backs of the pads and installed locating clips to the inner pads. After about 4 miles, pads started squeaking under braking. I pulled the calipers back off, adjusted tabs on outer pads so that they WILL NOT rock or pivot in the caliper. I used anti-seize on all rubbing blocks and caliper pins. After five days, the squeaking has gotten worse. The truck stops better than before, but the squeaking is driving me nuts. Is this grade of brake pad not good with my vehicle? Could the pads be too hard for the rotors? Should I have the rotors turned, and if so should I have a slight groove cut into the rotors to keep pads from moving? Please help with some ideas...

Answer: Sounds like your problem is the brake pads. Although they may be high performance, they come at a price, they do squeak. Try replacing them with a standard replacement pad from a major manufacturer.

Question: 1997 Chevy S-10 mileage: 103,000. I have changed the plugs, wires, map sensor, throttle sensor and EGR valve. I also changed the oxygen sensor and had the catalytic converter checked. The problem is that the truck loses a lot of power when going up a hill and especially when I run the air conditioner. Could something else need to be changed? No codes have turned up on the computer since the EGR code and it was changed. Thanks!

Answer: First thing to do is a compression check of the motor. If this is satisfactory, check the timing with a timing light and verify that the timing advances at 2500 RPM.

Question: 1999 Chevy S-10 mileage: 83,000.  When I turn on my A/C, there is a strong vibration coming from the A/C compressor.   It seems to go away at higher Rpms.  When I turn on the A/C, it takes about 1-2 minutes & the compressor gets almost too hot to touch.  The lines coming from the compressor are cold & the truck cools off just fine.  I don't have a clue what could be wrong.  I am currently not running the A/C for fear of tearing it up.   Yours, Hot in Alabama

Answer: The vibration may be due to a loose belt that drives the A/C compressor.  Also, check for Freon level, as it may be low.

Question: 2002 Chevy S-10 mileage: 67,000.  My truck will crank but fails to start. I can no longer hear the humming of the fuel pump.  It is my guess that this has gone bad.  However, I was told that there was a fuse in the engine compartment that I could check to see if it might be blown.  I cannot find any fuse maybe I am not looking in the right spot.  I am holding out hope that it could possible be this simple since I don't see much sense in dumping a lot of money into this truck Where is this fuse located?

Answer: There is no fuse that we know of for the fuel pump.  Check for 12-volts to the pump.  If there is 12-volts and the pump does not run, it should be replaced.

Question: 1998 Chevy S-10 P/U  mileage: 48,800.  I had a sunroof installed in my truck...now the Truck Stereo LED shows "LOC" at all times.  How can this be reset so the stereo will function again?  I don't remember ever setting a "code" on the stereo.

Answer: You will need to contact your dealer here because of the new anti-theft feature on later model vehicles.  Perhaps when the sunroof was installed, the 12-volt power to the radio was disconnected.   You can get your radio working again by providing your dealer with your Vin number and you will receive a code and instructions needed to solve your problem.

Question: 1999 Chevy S-10 mileage: 73,000.  Recently have started overheating, checked fluid levels (ok), and pulled radiator cap, no movement of water and top return hose was limp.  Replaced thermostat & gasket.  Replenished fluids, let run with cap off (trying to get rid of air) worked ok for about two weeks, then started overheating and no heat/defrost.  Rechecked fluid levels cold engine radiator and overflow all were fine.  Highway driving for a week no problems.  Then 35 to 50 mph, started overheating, reservoir was low, replenished, highway speed for 45 miles, temp up and down, stopped at radiator shop, mechanic said clutch fan was haywire replaced it, everything was great for 4 days, now overheated as pulling off highway and low speed driving.  Fluid levels still ok.  Found Campaign 95V180000 (engine cooling fan).  Unable to figure out what’s happening.  Overheated in Olympia.

Answer: Check the coolant for exhaust gases (blown head gasket).  If no gases are present, then a partially plugged radiator may be causing your problem.  Have the radiator “boiled” out at a radiator service center.

Question: 1998 s-10 mileage 88,000  The rear differential has a lock up unit from the factory. It used to spin both back tires, now only one spins.  I removed the back plate, and noticed no bearing wear, but did notice some wear in the spider gear set and the center shaft that holds them in.  Could this cause this problem?  I also noticed something that looked like a clutch pack.  Do these type also use clutches?  The little centrifugal unit that spins seems to work properly.  I thank you for any advice.

Answer: You are right, there are some clutch packs in the differential.  They do wear out and may need replacing.

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