Automobile / Chevy / Cavalier-1 / Cavalier-2 / Cavalier-3

Chevy Cavalier Car Repair Questions and Answers

MORE: Chevy Cavalier Repair Questions

Question: 1997 Chevy Cavalier When driving my car, it runs fine but as soon as I stop and am at idle the car acts like it wants to die or surges. Can you give any suggestions on helping me fix the problem. Thank you for your time

Answer: Your car is equipped with a computer controlled engine management system.  Scan your computer for fault or error codes.  The information should pinpoint the malfunctioning components.  Your idle speed control motor is what we would look at.

Question: 1998 Chevrolet Cavalier mileage: 165,000. My radiator fan has stopped running which is causing my car to run hot. I was told by somebody that if the fan is burned out that the fan would be stiff, it would be hard to turn. My fan is easy to turn so do I need a new fan or could it be an electrical problem?

Answer: When the engine is running hot and the radiator fan should be on, check for 12 volts to the fan.  If there is no voltage, there is a relay or sensor that has failed.  If there is voltage, then the fan motor needs replacing. 

Question: 2002 Chevy Cavalier mileage: 39,000. The problem is: whenever I would get the brakes done the brake the brakes would work fine but then 2-4 months later the brakes would become very touchy whenever you step on the brake pedal at a slow speed. And it would just about put you though the windshield until I get the brakes bleed or get a brake job etc. Can you please help? The Chevy dealer doesn't know what would cause this problem so they are recommending a complete replacement of the brake system for $1500.00. I am sure it has got to be something simple.    

Answer: Replacing the rear brake drums and brake shoes with brand new parts from the dealer or eAutoPartstore.com, not relined brake shoes should solve your problem.  Not all relined brake shoes are created equal.

Question: 1989 Chevy Cavalier mileage: 126,000 I was at a red light, when the light turned green, I gave it gas, it moved a few feet and then jerked to a stop. It acts like it is in park; it will move a total of about three feet from as far forward as it will go to as far backward. In drive, it moves to the front "stop" point, and then acts like the brakes are locked up. In reverse, same only it moves backward. In neutral, it can be pushed through the (approximate) three feet of travel. I checked the fluid and it was low, I added about 2/3 of a quart (it was over a pint low) but no change, however I didn't check the new fluid level. I know there are several possibilities of causes, but would like to know if, in your expert opinion, what the most likely cause would be, and if it would be worth trying to fix or just replace (I recently replaced 2/3 of the engine).

Answer: We do not think that the transmission is your problem. Your description would lead us to believe that your problem is in the differential. When you look at the differential, you will probably find that the shaft that holds the spider gears has come loose. Fortunately the problem occurs infrequently in rear wheel drive cars. However, it is a relatively inexpensive repair assuming there has been no damage done.

Question: 1995 Chevy Cavalier mileage: 125,000. We have had a complete electrical shutdown. No dash, interior or anything. I've tried the battery in another car and it's fine. One mechanic suggested checking to see if there are fusible links coming off the starter and see if these are shot. The Haynes manual wiring diagram shows a 60A fuse in the under hood fuse box instead of fusible links for the '94-'96 models. Any other suggestions? I haven't crawled under the car yet.

Answer: We would start at the battery with a 12-volt test light checking for voltage on the main power leads to locate the short or bad connection.

Question: 1995 Chevy Cavalier mileage: 124,000. The electronic solenoids A & B have melted down. The transmission stayed in the safe mode. Is electrical failure possible - due to power supply surge or an increase in the number of amps sent from the computer module to the transmission solenoids? Transmission shop says "this is a major-major electrical problem" is it possible for this failure to be from defective solenoids. Transmission was rebuilt and had less than 1000 miles on it when it failed.

Answer: The computer does not determine the amount of amps, which are sent to the transmission. If the amps are too high going to the transmission, it is probably the result of a bad ground or solenoid. With less than 1000 miles on your transmission, it should be under warranty and taken care of by the transmission shop you took it to.

Question: 1995 Chevy Cavalier mileage: 97,000. Last winter, heater with fan on never really got hot, only warm.  A month ago, the temperature gauge started to show running hot, but not in red/danger, but close.  I flushed system.   Replaced coolant.  Also replaced thermostat.  Now, 1.  Low coolant warming signal stays on, even though cooling system is full; 2.  Engine runs on cool side barely above cold, and 3.  Heater still does not blow hot air.  Any ideas?  Thanks

Answer: Test the low coolant sensor by removing the wire and check the warning light.  Also, ground the wire and check the light.  If okay, the sensor may be faulty.  From what you describe, you may have the wrong thermostat.  Your car should have a 195 degrees thermostat.  This will also help the heater with hot air.

MORE: Chevy Cavalier Repair Questions

Automobile / Chevy / Cavalier-1 / Cavalier-2 / Cavalier-3

Look up more Chevy Cavalier Questions in our Car Repair forum section.