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Chevy Caprice Car Repair Questions and Answers

Question: 1989 Chevy Caprice mileage 156,000: I was at a red light, when the light turned green, I gave it gas, it moved a few feet and then jerked to a stop. It acts like it is in park; it will move a total of about 3 feet from as far forward as it will go to as far backward. In drive, it moves to the front "stop" point, and then acts like the brakes are locked up. In reverse, same only it moves backward. In neutral, it can be pushed through the (approximate) 3 feet of travel. I checked the fluid and it was low, I added about 2/3 of a quart (it was over a pint low) but no change, however I didn't check the new fluid level. I know there are several possibilities of causes, but would like to know if, in your expert opinion, what the most likely cause would be, and if it would be worth trying to fix or just replace (I recently replaced 2/3 of the engine).

Answer: We do not think that the transmission is your problem. Your description would lead us to believe that your problem is in the differential. When you look at the differential, you will probably find that the shaft that holds the spider gears has come loose. Fortunately the problem occurs infrequently in rear wheel drive cars. However, it is a relatively inexpensive repair assuming there has been no damage done.

Question: 1995 Chevy Caprice mileage: 69,000. We have had a complete electrical shutdown. No dash, interior or anything. I've tried the Caprice battery in another car and it's fine. One mechanic suggested checking to see if there are fuseable links coming off the starter and see if these are shot. The Haynes manual wiring diagram shows a 60A fuse in the under hood fuse box instead of fuseable links for the '94-'96 models. Any other suggestions? I haven't crawled under the car yet.

Answer: We would start at the differential with a 12-volt test light checking for voltage on the main power leads to locate the short or bad connection.

Question: 1995 Chevy Caprice mileage: 45,000. The electronic solenoids A & B have melted down. The transmission stayed in the safe mode. Is electrical failure possible - due to power supply surge or an increase in the number of amps sent from the computer module to the transmission solenoids? Transmission shop says "this is a major-major electrical problem" is it possible for this failure to be from defective solenoids. Transmission was rebuilt and had less than 1000 miles on it when it failed.

Answer: The computer does not determine the amount of amps, which are sent to the transmission. If the amps are too high going to the transmission, it is probably the result of a bad ground or solenoid. With less than 1000 miles on your transmission, it should be under warranty and taken care of by the transmission shop you took it to.

Question: 1995 Chevy-Caprice-Wagon mileage: 77,000.  Last winter, heater with fan on never really got hot, only warm.  A month ago, the temperature gauge started to show running hot, but not in red/danger, but close.  I flushed system.   Replaced coolant.  Also replaced thermostat.  Now, 1.  Low coolant warming signal stays on, even though cooling system is full; 2.  Engine runs on cool side barely above cold, and 3.  Heater still does not blow hot air.  Any ideas?  Thanks

Answer: Test the low coolant sensor by removing the wire and check the warning light.  Also, ground the wire and check the light.  If okay, the sensor may be faulty.  From what you describe, you may have the wrong thermostat.  Your car should have a 195° thermostat.  This will also help the heater with hot air.

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