Logo Automobile Information Add Site to Favorites  
Auto Repair
Auto Repair Home
Auto Repair Ask a Car Repair Question
Auto Repair Car Question Forum
Auto Repair Questions by Manufacturer
Auto Repair Questions by Topic
Auto Repair First Things to Check
Auto Repair How to Repair or Service
Auto Repair Car Repair Manuals
Auto Repair How Does it Work
Auto Repair Car Repair Video Series
Auto Repair Auto Maintenance
Auto Repair Car Sound Problems
Auto Repair Auto Term Abbreviations
   
   
 
Popular Site Links

  

Auto Repair Automobile Safety Inspection
Auto Repair Brake Replacement Guides
Auto Repair Service Engine Soon Light
Auto Repair Belt Routing Diagrams
Auto Repair Avoid Car Repair Rip Offs
Auto Repair Trouble Code Table
Auto Repair How to use Diagnostic Tools
Auto Repair Smog Test Preparation
Auto Repair Hybrid Car Information
Auto Repair Test Equipment Store
Auto Repair Auto Parts
 
Search Website
 
 
Recent Repair Topics

 

Auto Repair2005 Ford Mustang Wont ...
Auto Repair1988 Ford Mustang Manua...
Auto Repair2000 Plymouth Neon Oil ...
Auto Repair1997 Ford Escort
Auto Repair2004 Dodge Stratus 2004...
Auto Repair2002 Nissan Altima Car ...
Auto Repair1994 Ford Falcon Car Wo...
Auto Repair More Repair Topics...
 


     
       


Free Car Repair Advice by Certified ASE Technicians



Automobile / Chevy / Camaro-1 / Camaro-2 / Camaro-3

Chevy Camaro Car Repair Questions and Answers

MORE: Chevy Camaro Repair Questions

Question: 1991 Chevy Camaro RS convertible 350_mileage: 89,000. I recently paid $1,072.00 to have my Camaro repaired after it stalled on me on the freeway. It was towed from the freeway after I managed to pull over on the right side of the freeway; the car would not accelerate when I pressed the gas pedal. The repair shop replaced without my consent over $600.00 in parts and repairs. Estimate was approximately $400.00 to replace the O2 and knock sensor. Then they replaced the TPS, rotor and cap, then finally the computer and fuel pump. My car has been running worse than before I took it there, except of course, it accelerates. It accelerates, but with no power. And when I accelerate, it starts to shake, also when I press the break, it also begins to shake and it seems like it is not going to stop. I've taken it back to the mechanic that replaced it, and the first two times he said he could not find a problem with it after putting it in the diagnostic machine, because the "check engine soon" light comes on after a few minutes of driving, this started after it was repaired. This last time I took the mechanic for a spin so he could see for himself the shaking of the car, he said it was the transmission, and would charge me $1,200.00 to rebuild it. I said "no!" I took it to a transmission shop the next day; he drove it and told me it was not my transmission. My question is, although I know I have been scammed by the mechanic shop that repaired my car, can you tell by what I have stated what is wrong with my car with the shaking at accelerating and breaking, and the lack of power at accelerating? Thanks

Answer: Your mechanic seems to be having trouble reading the computer fault codes. We suggest a more knowledgeable repair shop. Check with neighbors and friends and have a reputable mechanic scan the computer for fault codes to help locate your problem. Also have them check the idle speed as it sounds like it is too fast. Finally, have them check the catalytic converter to see if it is partially plugged.



Question: 1997 Chevrolet Z28 Camaro 5.7 litre_mileage: 101,900.  My question is about the keyless entry. The first remote that I got with the car got damaged so I had to purchase another one.  I was wondering if I could set the new remote to my car myself or do I have to take it to the dealership and have them do it. 

Answer: For theft related reasons, you have to have your new keyless remote programmed by the dealership.


Question: 2004 Chevy Camaro Z28 mileage 34,500: Four times now I have taken my car in for service at two Chevy dealerships. Upon acceleration in any gear, either from a stop or on the road, my engine makes a horrible ticking/clattering noise. It seems worse when the car is warm or in warmer weather. My boyfriend has driven it claiming to hear it even when it's cold. The first visit to GM resulted in "That noise is normal for the Camaro. No one knows what it is." Second visit: "We have no idea." The third visit seemed a little more revolutionary: "It’s fuel clatter you need to use premium fuel and the problem will resolve." For the next 10 months I resolved to use only 89 or higher fuel (previously I had used alternating tanks of 87 and 92). Well, the noise grew worse. I just picked up my car from the FOURTH visit and got conflicting advice. First I was told "You probably shouldn't use high grade fuel since I don't believe this car requires it." and then from a DIFFERENT tech, "There is nothing we can do about it; you can only use premium 91-grade fuel." Now I am frustrated and worried since my manual claims this noise/problem can be harmful to my engine if not serviced. I am still under warranty is it something that can be remedied?

Answer: Our educated guess on the source of your noise is either low octane fuel or possibly valve train noise.  Your owner’s manual should have a recommendation as to the minimum octane requirements.  As for the valve noise, switching to a major brand synthetic oil has resolved this problem in our customer’s cars.


Question: 1997 Chevy Camaro mileage: 40,000. I’m trying to find the proper wire color code for my oil pressure gauge connector. Its located just above the oil filter and its a three pin connector with three wires, however in my Haynes manual there is only one wire shown (orange). The Chevy dealer hasn’t been helpful and GM suggested I try you.

Answer: The orange wire is for the oil pressure. The other two wires are for the fuel pump cutoff switch. The function of the switch is to stop the electric fuel pump if you lose oil pressure while driving (saves the engine).


Question: 2002 Chevy Camaro 38,000 Miles. Hey I really love your site. This has stumped other mechanics. You're my only hope. My Camaro has a rebuilt engine but all the electrical components and sensors are the original. The car usually idles fine, but when you put it in gear and step on the gas it sounds like it backfires in the engine up by the air filters? This happens on Initial acceleration but gets better like on the freeway. But a pain on the streets. Code 21 and 22 come up (TPS). I changed it and it was better but a couple months later it slowly came back. I took it to a mechanic who changed the TPS again and said it was fine now. Months later the same thing happened, it came back. I went to another mechanic and did it all over again. What could it be? Could it be the actual computer that's fried? If I go to another mechanic, how do I know they know what they are doing because they seem to know about as much as I do with this problem? I love my Camaro even got it a new engine that I have never even really gotten to appreciate yet. Please any suggestions or insights would be great.

Answer: Assuming the engine is in a good state of tune, plugs, plug wires, distributor, etc., are okay, start with a compression check on the engine to see if you have a weak cylinder. Next check for a broken valve spring and/or a flat cam.

MORE: Chevy Camaro Repair Questions


Question: 1998 Chevrolet Camaro  mileage: 149,000. I have replaced the O2 sensor, ECM, map sensor, throttle position sensor, checked all wires for shorts or grounds, all vacuum hoses and around intake for vacuum leaks. The car starts and idles fine, revs up when given fuel with out hesitation. Put the vehicle in gear and everything is fine, but as soon as the car moves from its position, even coasting a foot it shuts completely down. I have run diagnostics, and the codes I receive are for the parts I have already replaced, 22 and 34.

Answer: Try unplugging the speedometer sensor in the tail housing of the transmission. If this does not fix your problem, try unplugging the electrical connector on the side of the transmission closed to the bell housing. If your lock-up converter is malfunctioning, this procedure will isolate the problem.



Question: 1997 Chevy z-28 mileage: 37,000. I ran a diagnostic test and it read: "Code 0174" from the Actron II tester OBD II (system to lean -Bank 2) what is the remedy?

Answer: Several things can cause a lean condition: an Oxygen sensor, a partially plugged fuel injector, a partially plugged fuel filter, and or a faulty fuel pump.


Question: 1998 Camaro mileage: 70,000. Everything is stock, and it has 70,000 miles on it. The engine is starting to run hot, at 250 degrees. Even at nighttime, it runs hot. I have replaced the radiator, electric fan motor, hoses, thermostat, but it still overheats. Someone told me it might be the catalytic converter is clogged and needs to be replaced. Is this true? How do I check that?

Answer: Check to see that the electric fan that cools the radiator is coming on when the car is running hot.


Question: 1999 Chevrolet Camaro mileage: 78,000. I have had my car for two years, and it has always been hard to shift. I have had different people say it was the clutch and others say it is the shifter. Just recently, I have seen many Camaro's being updated to B & M or Hurst shifters. Before I spend a lot of money either way I would like to know your opinion.

Answer: We have to guess that perhaps the clutch is your problem. If the clutch does not disengage properly, the synchromesh in the transmission prevents the smooth shifting between gears.


Question: 2000 Chevy, Camaro  mileage: 105,000.  When I'm driving on the freeway and have to apply my brakes real hard it shakes very badly.  There is a sound coming from my driver side tire that is also, where it shakes (like a rubbing sound) all the time.  The brakes work great if I'm going slow or apply them real slow.  And yes I have got my tires rotated, balanced, I have replaced the rotors, brakes, calipers, the hub for the bearings; I have also done the back brakes too!  I know that it has to be the driver�s side but where?  Maybe it is out of alignment, bad master cylinder, shocks, rack and pinion? 

Answer:  Assuming your tires and wheels are stock, it sounds like you have a warped brake rotor or the wheel lug nuts are over tightened.


Question: 2002 Chevrolet Camaro mileage: 55,000.  My car doesn't have much for instrumentation, besides the speedometer and fuel gauge it only has "idiot lights". They don't tell me what my oil pressure is and how hot my car is running.  What would I have to do in order to install one of those three gauge sets (oil/water temp/amps) into my car?

Answer: You will need a set of aftermarket gauges and once you purchase, follow the instructions that come with the gauges for installation.


Question: 1986 Chevy Camaro mileage: 48,000.  I had backed out and then put it into drive when it died. The engine stopped just as if I turned it off myself.  The headlights, dome lights, and lighter still work but my dash gauges, stereo, and electric trunk does not work.  I cannot find the problem.

Answer: Check the fusible links by the starter.


Question: 1998 Z28 Camaro mileage: 84,000. Hi, I have a Z28 Camaro.  When I first bought the car a few years ago, I was getting great mileage (20-25) gal.  My car has a carburetor, but has all of that emission equipment for California.  I recently changed the O2 sensor, set the timing, and adjusted the carburetor, so I was wondering what happened to my mileage (10 miles per gallon now).  So please answer my question, and give me some info on the computer controlled q-jets.

Answer: Your car is equipped with a computer controlled engine management system.  An independent auto service center can scan your computer for fault or error codes. The information should pinpoint the malfunctioning components. The mileage problem you are having may indicate you are ready for a carburetor overhaul. When the carburetor is apart, pay close attention to the float to make sure it is not saturated; if it is, replace it.


Question: 1988 Chevy Camaro mileage: 80,000. The torque converter engages in third gear most of the time.  If I accelerate faster than normal, it will not engage until fourth, only during cruising. It is a 700R4 with no modifications. Is there a test for the TCC, third and fourth gear switches, its getting annoying?

Answer: Scanning the PCM (power control module) for fault codes should pinpoint your problem in your transmission.


Question: 1987 Chevrolet Camaro Mileage: 154,000. What is the problem when the car continues to run even after the car is shut off and it still shakes and grumbles?

Answer: It is possible that the idle is set to high. Also, try using a higher octane grade of gas.

MORE: Chevy Camaro Repair Questions

Automobile / Chevy / Camaro-1 / Camaro-2 / Camaro-3

Try looking up your problem in our Auto Repair topics section

Got Car Repair Questions? We will answer it for free.

Related Subjects

GET ONLINE CAR REPAIR MANUALS. Get instant access to your vehicles drive belt routing, wiring diagrams, trouble code information, updates and factory bulletins.





     
Popular Service Repairs
Test Fuses
Replace Front Brake Pads
Check Engine Light
Rear Brake Shoes
Rear Brake Pads
Test Alternator
Replace Air Filter
Test Battery
Tune Up
More Service Repairs...
Advertisement
Car Questions
Acura
Alfa Romeo
American Motors
Audi
BMW
Buick
Cadillac
Chevy
Chrysler
Citron
Daewoo
Daihatsu
Dodge
Eagle
Ferrari
Fiat
Ford
Geo
GMC
Honda
Holden
Hummer
Hyundai
Infiniti
International
Isuzu
Jaguar
Jeep
Kia
Land Rover
Lexus
Lincoln
Mazda
Mercedes Benz
MG
Mercury
Mini
Mitsubishi
Nissan
Oldsmobile
Opel
Peugeot
Plymouth
Pontiac
Porsche
Renault
Rolls Royce
Rover
Saab
Saturn
Scion
Seat
Skoda
Subaru
Suzuki
Toyota
Vauxhall
Volkswagen
Volvo

Home l Help l Privacy Policy l User Agreement l About Us l Computer Repair Question l Contact Us l Link to Us l We're Hiring l Affiliate Program
  Copyright © 1999 - 2009 2CarPros.com - Professional Mechanics Online