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Chevy Blazer Car Repair Questions and Answers

Question: 2003 Chevy Blazer 4x4_mileage: 21,000. The trouble I am having is with the braking system, the brake pedal goes to the floor when you step on the brake. To solve this problem I have replace front and rear brakes and the master cylinder I have checked the pin in the vacuum booster and bleed all the lines figuring the job was done. The brake pedal is firm when not starting vehicle, but when the vehicle is running it again goes to the floor. I am thinking of replacing the ABS unit. All lines going to the unit seem to be operable but I am not sure. There is no fluid coming out of the bleeder screws in the top of the unit. I know the abs wheel sensors are not working but I just had this vehicle certified like that in late November and all brakes were working fine at that time. They don't seem to be locking up properly when on a test drive. Maybe you can give me a suggestion. Thanks!

Answer: Sounds like you still have air in the brake system which power bleeding will probably correct. Check the rear-wheel cylinders as they may be letting air into the system when the parking brake is applied.

Question: 1999 Chevy Blazer mileage: 90,000. Three weeks ago, my son-in-law and I replaced the original 350 engine with a short block and had the heads re-conditioned at a machine shop. We have been unable to get the engine started except for very short periods of time, 3 seconds or so. The coil tested out of spec so it was replaced. The gasket under the throttle body was bad so it was replaced also. The fuel regulator was changed. I checked the throttle position sensor with a digital voltmeter and compared it with a new sensor. The readings were nearly identical. A self contained timing light would only flash 5 to ten times during cranking and then no flash. I hooked up a 12v Sun timing light and it flashes every time. Hooking a spark plug wire to an old plug to test for fire shows a blue spark the first few times and changes to a red spark indicating to me a weak spark. The fuel injectors seem to be spraying too much gas and it is my opinion they are flooding the engine. I checked the engine codes and got a 12 only. I borrowed a good computer and installed it. No change in the spark color or starting. I un-hooked the fuel pump relay and cranked the engine. After four or five seconds, the fuel injectors start spraying. Today I checked and compared the engine temperature sensor to a new one and again it was nearly the same resistance. Tomorrow I plan to check cranking vacuum and compression. If things look good, one last thing I plan to change the injectors with a set from a 3.1 engine. This will be only a test to prove if the original injectors are spraying too much fuel. Any other ideas?

Answer: Check fuel pressure. Also check for fuel lines that may have been hooked up incorrectly or may be plugged or kinked. In addition, check all the ground wire connections.

Question: 1997 Chevy Blazer mileage: 106,000. For the last 6 months I have been having trouble putting it into gear and dying or having to start it 3 times keeping my foot on the gas and on the brake at the same time so it does not die. Then at times when I am turning a corner it will die. It always restarts eventually but it’s dying more and more frequent. I have taken it to a mechanic and they have changed spark plugs, put in a new fuel filter, and a PCV valve. They have removed and cleaned throttle body and replace the thermostat and seal. That’s what’s on the bill anyway. I am going to take it to a different shop but would like to act like I have a clue this time.

Answer: Check your fuel pump as it may be failing. Also, check your fuel pressure regulator as it may be leaking raw fuel into the engine.

Question: 1995 Chevrolet Blazer mileage 112,000. The problem is that the engine is so rich at idle that it lopes and stumbles. I replaced plugs (AC), wires (GM), cap, button, coil and fuel filter and performed all the basic checks before I took it in for diagnostics. The dealer said that the fuel injector was bad. I did not believe them so I took it to someone else; they told me the same thing. I replace the injector ($$$) this had no effect on the problem. It is not logging any trouble codes in the computer. I have now performed a compression test and all the cylinders are fairly even between 158 & 170. I also took the valve covers off and measured the lift at the rocker arms to see if there might be a cam lobe going down nothing out of the ordinary there. I checked the fuel pressure it has 62 lbs at start and 54 lbs running. I have swapped the crank position and the cam position sensors off my s-15, the idle air control and have also swapped the O2 sensors. I have checked anti-knock sensors 8400 ohms, I have tested the throttle position sensor and the engine coolant sensor all of which checkout with the book that I have. It has 17 inches of vacuum at idle so I don't think that it has a leak. Also the timing seems high 22 degrees BTC. Nothing that I have done so far has any effect on the problem. Any ideas?

Answer: We suspect a faulty fuel pressure regulator is causing your problem. The regulator may have a ruptured diaphragm allowing the raw fuel to leak into the intake manifold.

Question: 1992 Chevrolet S10 Blazer. I have a 92 s-10Blazer and the last couple of days it has been real slow turning over. I thought it may be the starter, but last night the starter would just click and wouldn't start at all. When I got up this morning the battery was dead, so I put a charger on it and it still wouldn't start. Then I jumped it with another car and it started. The battery is only 4 months old so I don't think that is the problem. A friend told me it could be a fuseable link but I'm not sure where under the hood to check the link. What would it be connected to?

Answer: Load test the battery and also test the charging circuit. The fact that you can jump the dead battery and start it would indicate that the starter and the fuseable links are all okay.

Question: 1996 Chevy Blazer mileage: 110,000. The vehicle has the electronic transfer case. It will not shift out of 4HI back to 2HI. I push the button, the light flashes and I hear some "clicking" from around the front wheels, but it stays in 4HI. Any suggestions? Is this a common problem?

Answer: Your problem is common and is caused by a faulty actuator. Replacing it should get your 4-wheel drive system working again.

Question: 1994 Chevy Blazer mileage: 105,899. I have a 1994 Chevy S10 Blazer. It has been running rough lately and a lot of fuel has been coming out of the tailpipe and the smell of fuel is very extreme. I have had it put on the computer to check everything. My husband has changed all the spark plugs; the left side was bad, the right side was good. We even had the fuel injector cleaned. But when we did this it really started to run rough. Any suggestions on what may be causing the problem? I am putting too much money out for fuel lately.

Answer: Check the fuel pressure regulator. You will probably find that the diaphragm has ruptured allowing raw gas to be drawn into the engine

Question: 1993 S10 Blazer mileage: 175,000. I am having a rough idle, rich mixture, smell from the exhaust and black carbon coming from the exhaust as well, and I have to crank it for a while and hold the gas pedal to the floor for it to start when it is cold. When it is just shut off for a minute or so and I restart it, it will start immediately. I have put in a new fuel filter, new spark plugs and wires, distributor cap and rotor, O2 sensor, and EGR valve. I am not getting any codes CONSISTENTLY. A couple of times I got codes, one was MAP sensor/EGR valve. The other was EGR valve / O2 sensor. But the codes weren't back to back and they went away shortly after they came on.

Answer: Check to see if the fuel pressure regulator has a ruptured diaphragm allowing raw gas into the intake manifold. If you have a faulty regulator, replace it and the O² sensor. Also, check to see if you have a partially plugged catalytic converter.

Question: 1993 Chevrolet Blazer mileage: 85,000. My '93 Chevrolet Blazer recently got low on gas. I put more in and the next day the engine would not turn over. The spark plugs are getting fire and it is getting fuel to the fuel rail, but it would not start. Can you help me?

Answer: Check fuel pump pressure because the pump may have been damaged when you were low on gas.

Question: 1994 Chevrolet S-10 Blazer mileage: 78,000. Dear Bob and Ken, I am trying to replace a bad starter. My father and I are not novice automobile people. However, for the life of us we can not get the starter out of the little cubby hole the engineers left to get to the starter. Is there a trick we are missing? Do we need to remove something else to get it free? Keep in mind this is a small opening. Moreover, we only need about another 1/4" to get it free.

Answer: Try loosening up a motor mount and gently lifting the engine for clearance.

Question: 1997 Chevy Blazer mileage: 79,000. 2 days ago when it started raining the wipers would not turn on. Washer motor did not work either. Changed the fuse. They still did not work. The next I bought a rebuilt wiper motor. I checked 1 more time before changing and the wipers were working. Does the wiper motor have a circuit breaker that resets itself and is ok to leave it alone or should I go ahead and change it out.

Answer: You probably are having trouble with the control module for the windshield wiper motor. If it acts up again, try changing the control module.

Question: 2002 Chevy S-10 Blazer mileage: 120,000. I took a set of compression readings the other day, and need some help analyzing them. According to what I've read, these compression readings look good, but I've yet to see an actual number that would be acceptable. I just see "lowest cylinder must be 70% of highest, 100 psi min" does that mean Anything that falls into that range is fine. Anyway, here's the readings (took 3 readings each cylinder, averaged them...all 3 readings were within +/- 5 psi): Left bank Cyl 1: 163psi, Left bank Cyl 2: 144psi, Left bank Cyl 3: 146psi, Right bank Cyl 1: 160psi, Right bank Cyl 2: 130psi, Right bank Cyl 3: 146psi. I then added 3 squirts of engine oil to Rt bank Cyl's 2 and 3: Rt. bank Cyl 2 w/oil: 135psi, Rt. bank Cyl 3 w/oil: 140psi. Other helpful info may be that when I pulled spark plugs, Cyl 2 on both sides were coated with heavy black dry (carbon?) deposits, and Cyls 3 on both sides were coated with a good amount of oil. Cyls 1 on both sides looked to be ok. Any help on what all this means would be greatly appreciated!

Answer: Although the compression readings are not perfect, they are respectable for an engine with 120,000 miles. The two cylinders that you added oil to tell us that the rings are in good condition but the valves may have slight leakage. Oil and carbon on spark plugs indicates to us that your valve stem seals may be allowing oil to get into the cylinders and foul the plugs.

Question: 1995 Chevy blazer mileage: 85,000. Anti-lock break light comes on and stays on after vehicle reaches over the speed of 8 miles an hour. Have checked connections, speed sensor, resistance, all checks out all ok, no set computer codes, any suggestions. Thank you.

Answer: Recheck for codes on the ABS computer. If the anti-lock light comes on, it is storing codes.

Question: 1997 Chevy S-10 Blazer. I am installing a new power pulley kit. I need to remove the old pulley. There are 3 bolts that are very difficult to remove. I was wondering if I am turning them in the wrong direction. There is one large bolt in the center, surrounded by three smaller ones (the ones I am trying to remove). Should I be turning them clock-wise or counter clock-wise to remove them? Also, I just looked at the new pulley that they sent me. The hole in the center is not as big as the hole in the center of the original one. This hole is where the above-mentioned larger bolt will go through. Is this going to cause me a problem?

Answer: To replace the pulley, you will need a special pulley remover and installer.

Question: 1990 Full Size Chevy Blazer 350 mileage: 123,000. We have had this vehicle for about 5 years now. It has a new motor in it now and it runs good. My question is about the steering. It has a lot of slack in the steering and I wonder if there is an easy solution to tightening it. It probably has at least 6 or 8 inches of play in the steering wheel before it reacts. This is sort of dangerous. I would like to try to tighten it myself if I can. Can you help me?

Answer: The steering box can be tightened to remove any excess wear. However, before you do this, check over all steering components, especially tie rods for wear.

Question: 1999 Chevy/S-10 Blazer mileage: 100,800. My Blazer runs a little rough and wants to stall when idling and when coming to a stop. It will die and you to start it again and it won't. If you let it sit 15-30 minutes, it will start again and will eventually stall again. Any ideas! Thank you.

Answer: Your car may be ready for a major tune-up including spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, rotor, fuel filter and air filter. Also, perform a fuel pump pressure test and a compression check. Clean fuel injection system including throttle bore, idle speed control motor and passages. If problem still exists, scan computer for trouble codes.

Question: 1998 Chevy S-10 Blazer mileage: 95,000. My 1993 Blazer began running rough and sometimes stalls. It appears there is a lot of fuel being used as I can see it coming out the tailpipe and the smell of fuel is also present. My fuel consumption is way up as well. I was able to check the engine codes and received a 12,32,33,45. Would replacing the EGR Valve correct most of this problem?

Answer: You may want to check the fuel pressure; the regulator may be hanging up. Also, check the injector spray as the injectors may be worn and spraying too much fuel. Replacing the EGR valve will not correct the problems you describe even though it may be faulty and need replacing.

Question: 1995 Chevrolet blazer mileage: 44,000. Blazer won't start at times at other times it does fine. Mechanic looked at car twice but couldn't get a read on the problem because it started every time he tried when it was racked on the computer. The engine turns, I can hear the fuel pump turning on and off, everything else in car works fine but it simply won't turn over sometimes when you crank it leaving me stranded where ever I may be. If you leave it alone for a few hours after initial fail, it will fire later

Answer: Your stalling problem may be cause by the fuel pump and/or the fuel pressure regulator. Replacing it and the fuel filter should fix your problem. Since the fuel pump is extremely hard to hear, the sound you hear probably is not the fuel pump.

Question: 1996 Chevy Blazer mileage: 64,754. I have a 1996 Chevy Blazer 4x4 with a V6-262 4.3L engine. About three weeks ago, the heater stopped blowing heated air. Having a father that teaches automotive technology we decided it must be the thermostat. We replaced thermostat with no success. Blower works fine. Coolant level is good. Connecting the scan tool the vehicle temperature only got to 195 after extended running time. Unable to find any info on normal operating temp. For a Blazer we are at a loss. Using the fix of old, we placed cardboard over the radiator and that seems to make it work better not great. With the problem possibly being the heater core or actuator with a dealership repair cost of $500.00 I am no doubt frustrated. Do you know of anything else that we might try or any problems that you have heard about Blazers cooling system? There are no recalls to date on all data. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Answer: Two things to check: First check for vacuum that goes to the heater control, you may have a loose or cracked line which would cause the heater doors not to work properly; Secondly, check for a partially plugged heater core that would restrict the coolant flow.

Question: 1992 Chevy s-10 blazer mileage: 107,000. The vehicle will pull to the right when braking only in wet/cold conditions. I thought it might be a bad rear cylinder. I replaced the passenger side cylinder. It was leaking. The problem is still occurring, however. What could it be?

Answer: Check the front brakes. Your problem is probably there. Also, if the rear brakes got brake fluid on them, replace the brake shoes. Also, check for loose or worn front suspension parts.



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