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Cadillac Eldorado Repair Questions and Answers
Question: 1992 Cadillac El Dorado V8 Two Wheel Drive Automatic 138000
miles Just bought car key does not work on drivers door. Security system shut
car down for three minutes at a time. How do I over ride this?
Answer: you need a key to unlock the door or a new ign switch and a dealer relearn theft system
Question: 1994 Cadillac El Dorado V8 Front Wheel Drive Automatic 75000 miles well today
I was driving down the street and my car has been running good with no signs of problems
till then my car sputtered and then it idled very ugly below 1000 rpm I tried giving it gas but
didn't help now it wont even start
I can hear the fuel pump but I don't know
any suggestions
Answer: Squirt carb cleaner in the throttle housing, if it starts its fuel if not its spark
Question (follow up): hey thanks for advice first i changed the fuel filter and it was horrible it was dirty as it can be and i blew in the filter and brown gas poured out well i put a new one in and then i squirted the carb cleaner in the housing and it cranked but it seem to just burn the carb cleaner then it would cut back off i did this many times and same thing it seems like its gettin no gas do you think the fueul pump shpuld be changed cause the filter was bad .....opr what do you suggest???????
Answer (follow up): yes the pump, sorry to say its around 600.00 bucks, and the tank has to come down
2.5 hrs labor + pump at the dealer
Question:1992 Cadillac Sedan Deville AC miliage 128,000. I saw
your posts on the internet and you guys really know your stuff!! Up to now, it has
been difficult getting truly professional advice on this topic (even at the Cadillac
garage), so I was wondering if you could respond to what is probably a very basic
question for you: PROBLEM: My Cadillac (128,800 mostly highway miles) now shows
the amber "Service AC" light for several seconds after starting [not just bulb check,
but also may not be 29 sec. as per owner's manual p.128]. The climate control is
now always defaulted to the ECON mode. If I push the AUTO button, the light comes
back on & it goes back to ECON mode. SERVICES PERFORMED: I have always kept the
AC system serviced, & @ 123k & 127k have had the AC system checked with dye, black
light and "sniffer leak detector." It showed "seeping at the compressor and evaporator."
Car has been carefully maintained since brand new (father owned up to 40k miles);
although I note that at 30.5k miles the evaporator core was "blown" & replaced (surprising)
by the Cadillac garage. In the nearly 100k miles since then, I've done nothing to
AC other than had it checked, periodically recharged & had the compressor relay
replaced (31k & 120k).
Answer:If the amount of Freon in the system is correct, then
we suspect the fan controller module is malfunctioning.
Question:1997 Cadillac Deville Northstar mileage: 87,000. Could
not find manual for this car until I found your site! Ordered it! Power steering
is good turning right, no power turning left. Replaced PS pump with new one expecting
to fix it, (hard job!). Did not! Really stuck, no leaks. Is there any kind of bleeding
procedure?
Answer: The new pump should be self-bleeding by turning the
wheels left and right. However, the problem that you described sounds like a faulty
power steering rack.
Question: 1991 Cadillac DeVille 4.9 mileage: 137,000.
While driving, every time we turn on an electrical device, etc. heater, directional,
headlights, the engine begins to misfire, backfire, and loses power...the moment
I turn off the device it returns to normal. I had it to the dealer, but amazingly
enough they said that is normal for a car of that many miles. Give me a break...please
prove them wrong...thanks....
Answer: We have not experienced a problem like you are having
with your car. In discussing it, the only thing we can come up with is the alternator.
Now, before you say "the alternator!?" let us explain. If one of the diodes in the
alternator is starting to fail it will allow alternating current spikes to be sent
to the computer which will cause the symptoms you are experiencing.
Follow-up: Hey guys...I changed the alternator, as suggested,
and was glad I did. It ran very fine for about fifty miles or so, but then started
acting up again. On a recent trip, however the same problem started again. It backfired
so bad at one time that it blew the muffler apart. I took it to the dealer when
I got back home, and they said that the problem was dirty or poor grounds, which
they replaced. I just wanted to let you know what it was, in case someone else has
that trouble again...
Question: 1987 Cadillac Deville 4.1 mileage: 135,000. About 2
years ago, the Deville began sounding as though it had a rod knock that would develop
during normal driving. But as soon as the check engine light would come on the knock
would disappear. Then it began on start-up, with the same result as the check engine
light came on. Upon pulling the engine down and checking the bearings and the crank
with a micrometer, we found the bearings and the crank to be perfect to specs. We
replace all the bearings, buttoned up the engine, and began again. With the knock
still present, we removed the air cleaner and found the knock to be coming from
a backfire through the TBI. We checked for vacuum leaks and found none, then we
went step by step through the ignition system till all components were replaced,
still the same result. Earlier this year I gave up on finding the problem in the
engine after checks in the valve train, timing gear, and all hard parts had been
checked, cleared of fault or replaced. I then changed the ECM, no change. So I bought
a replacement engine and upon fire up no knock. But within one week, the knock\backfire
was back. Can you give me any help here before I take 5 gallons of gas and a stick
match to this car?
Answer: Check the ground connection in the distributor, check
for a carbon path on the distributor cap and scan the computer for fault codes.
Question:1977 Cadillac Coupe Deville V8 mileage: 120,180. That's
right... 12,180 tender miles! This vehicle had one owner, my wife's father. Almost
never driven. It was stored in a garage for around 20 years! The interior and exterior
are in mint condition (perfect!) No dings, perfect original paint, just extremely
dirty. I had it towed from the CA desert in Yucca Valley to my mechanic. The engine
has a large 4bl carb. Tires are all rotted/flat. The under carriage all appears
to be mint also, as does the engine compartment. In your collective opinion, is
this car worth cleaning up, installing new tires, and going through the trouble
and expense of getting it to run properly. As of today, I don't know if it will
run. I'll know that latter in the week. What precautions and actions should be taken
to safely attempt to get the motor to operate? I guess the fuel system could be
all "gummed up" and the valves stuck shut and some internal parts rusted. If I can
get it to run, what are the pitfalls of running it on unleaded fuel as I think it
needs leaded fuel? If it all is worth the effort, what would an approximate value
of the finished "project car" be?
Answer: Remove the sparkplugs, disconnect the coil and spray
a light engine oil into each sparkplug hole before cranking the engine over. Crank
the engine for about 30 seconds until you get oil pressure. Reinstall the sparkplugs
and attempt to start. Your car should be required to run on unleaded fuel. As far
as the "worth of the effort," that is a personal decision you will have to make.
Question: 1998 Cadillac Sedan Deville V8 mileage: 89,000. Driving
down the road - no particular speed, temp, rhyme or reason, my car will suddenly
lose power to the point where I have to pull over and shut it off. I've been to
many dealers and repair centers, been hooked to every scanner known to man and still
no answers. I have spent thousands replacing parts. Any ideas before I ditch the
car?
Answer: Intermittent problems are difficult to diagnose. The
problem you described must be isolated when the stalling occurs to pinpoint the
cause. One of three things could be happening: 1. Lack of fuel; 2. Lack of spark
at the spark plugs; or 3. Electronic component failure. Our first guess would be
fuel pump failure.
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