Logo Automobile Information Add Site to Favorites  
Auto Repair
Auto Repair Home
Auto Repair Ask a Car Repair Question
Auto Repair Car Repair Question Archive
Auto Repair Repair Troubleshooting
Auto Repair How to Repair or Service
Auto Repair Car Repair Forum
Auto Repair Auto Repair Manuals
Auto Repair How to use Diagnostic Tools
Auto Repair Auto Term Abbreviations
Auto Repair Brake Replacement Guides
Auto Repair Service Engine Soon Light
 
Popular Site Links

  

Auto Repair Maintenance Schedule
Auto Repair How Does it Work?
Auto Repair Car Repair Video Series
Auto Repair Car Safety Inspection
Auto Repair Timing Belt Marks
Auto Repair Drive Belt Routing Diagrams
Auto Repair Trouble Code Table
Auto Repair Avoid Car Repair Rip Offs
Auto Repair Smog Test Preparation
Auto Repair Car Replacement Parts
Auto Repair Test Equipment Store
 
Search Website
 
 
Recent Repair Topics

 

Auto Repair1999 Mercury Sable Heat...
Auto Repair1990 Ford Mustang Fuel
Auto Repair1999 Subaru Impreza Nee...
Auto Repair2001 Lexus Ls 430
Auto Repair1994 Chevy Astro How To...
Auto Repair1999 Nissan Altima
Auto Repair2001 Ford Mustang Steering
Auto Repair More Repair Topics...
 
Site Advertising
     
 

Auto Repair Advice by Professional Automotive Experts.




Automobile / Cadillac / Deville

Cadillac Deville Repair Questions and Answers

Question: 2000 Cadillac Deville mileage: 105,000. Hello, I'm getting two stories from two separate mechanics and need some help here. While driving down the freeway at 60 mph, the dash coolant temp fanlight came on and we pulled over...lots of steam--overheating major. (I had the thermostat changed and radiator flushed 30,000 miles ago) Rolled into the gas station/shop and they said it was a cracked radiator and needed replacement. They are plastic in the Cadillac's. Next day, they called and said there were emissions coming from the radiator, as high as if it were coming from the tailpipe. They suspected a cracked block or blown head gasket and to tow it to my regular mechanic--it runs, but will heat up. My mechanic says they put water in it and drove it, it ran smooth, and they ran a pressure test and it was fine. No water in the oil (didn't mention oil in the water), and they believe its just the radiator that needs replacing, it was normal to have some exhaust coming through the radiator. In addition, I thought I noticed a little white smoke from the tailpipe when they started up the car, which dissipated in a few seconds. And, over the last month, it sounds as if there is "gurgling" going on in the dash, like water going through hoses for the heater. That sound usually happens when I start the car up in the morning, and it has warmed up for a few minutes and I am driving away. I hate to fix the radiator and then find out I need to pay for fixing an engine problem when we were planning on buying a new car anyway. Anything else I should ask them to check before authorizing the radiator work in lieu of selling it as a mechanics special.

Answer: A cylinder leak down test with all the spark plugs removed will tell you if you have a blown head gasket/cracked head that is allowing exhaust into the cooling system. It will also tell you if you have a blown head gasket between cylinders.


Question: 1999 Cadillac Sedan DeVille  mileage: 101,500. During warmer weather (above 48 degrees F) the fuel data center will start cycling sporadically through the various displays. The "Change Oil" light will flash on and off during this event. Eventually, the ECM and BCM will start throwing codes such as Data signal lost between BCM and Data signal lost from ECM. Without spending hundreds of dollars buying new ECM's, BCM's, and Fuel Data Centers, have you ever heard of this occurring on this make and model of vehicle before? If so, what is the procedure for diagnosis and what is the repair made to it? (This one has thrown me!)

Answer: Check the ground wires for proper connections (resistance). Also, see if you can duplicate the problem by moving the wiring looms and watching the display. Check the looms for damage and/or corrosion on the connectors.



Question: 1992 Cadillac Sedan Deville AC miliage 128,000. I saw your posts on the internet and you guys really know your stuff!! Up to now, it has been difficult getting truly professional advice on this topic (even at the Cadillac garage), so I was wondering if you could respond to what is probably a very basic question for you: PROBLEM: My Cadillac (128,800 mostly highway miles) now shows the amber "Service AC" light for several seconds after starting [not just bulb check, but also may not be 29 sec. as per owner's manual p.128]. The climate control is now always defaulted to the ECON mode. If I push the AUTO button, the light comes back on & it goes back to ECON mode. SERVICES PERFORMED: I have always kept the AC system serviced, & @ 123k & 127k have had the AC system checked with dye, black light and "sniffer leak detector." It showed "seeping at the compressor and evaporator." Car has been carefully maintained since brand new (father owned up to 40k miles); although I note that at 30.5k miles the evaporator core was "blown" & replaced (surprising) by the Cadillac garage. In the nearly 100k miles since then, I've done nothing to AC other than had it checked, periodically recharged & had the compressor relay replaced (31k & 120k).

Answer: If the amount of Freon in the system is correct, then we suspect the fan controller module is malfunctioning.


Question: 1997 Cadillac Deville Northstar mileage: 87,000. Could not find manual for this car until I found your site! Ordered it! Power steering is good turning right, no power turning left. Replaced PS pump with new one expecting to fix it, (hard job!). Did not! Really stuck, no leaks. Is there any kind of bleeding procedure?

Answer: The new pump should be self-bleeding by turning the wheels left and right. However, the problem that you described sounds like a faulty power steering rack.


Question: 1991 Cadillac DeVille 4.9 mileage: 137,000. While driving, every time we turn on an electrical device, etc. heater, directional, headlights, the engine begins to misfire, backfire, and loses power...the moment I turn off the device it returns to normal. I had it to the dealer, but amazingly enough they said that is normal for a car of that many miles. Give me a break...please prove them wrong...thanks....

Answer: We have not experienced a problem like you are having with your car. In discussing it, the only thing we can come up with is the alternator. Now, before you say "the alternator!?" let us explain. If one of the diodes in the alternator is starting to fail it will allow alternating current spikes to be sent to the computer which will cause the symptoms you are experiencing.

Follow-up: Hey guys...I changed the alternator, as suggested, and was glad I did. It ran very fine for about fifty miles or so, but then started acting up again. On a recent trip, however the same problem started again. It backfired so bad at one time that it blew the muffler apart. I took it to the dealer when I got back home, and they said that the problem was dirty or poor grounds, which they replaced. I just wanted to let you know what it was, in case someone else has that trouble again...


 Question: 1987 Cadillac Deville 4.1 mileage: 135,000. About 2 years ago, the Deville began sounding as though it had a rod knock that would develop during normal driving. But as soon as the check engine light would come on the knock would disappear. Then it began on start-up, with the same result as the check engine light came on. Upon pulling the engine down and checking the bearings and the crank with a micrometer, we found the bearings and the crank to be perfect to specs. We replace all the bearings, buttoned up the engine, and began again. With the knock still present, we removed the air cleaner and found the knock to be coming from a backfire through the TBI. We checked for vacuum leaks and found none, then we went step by step through the ignition system till all components were replaced, still the same result. Earlier this year I gave up on finding the problem in the engine after checks in the valve train, timing gear, and all hard parts had been checked, cleared of fault or replaced. I then changed the ECM, no change. So I bought a replacement engine and upon fire up no knock. But within one week, the knock\backfire was back. Can you give me any help here before I take 5 gallons of gas and a stick match to this car?

Answer: Check the ground connection in the distributor, check for a carbon path on the distributor cap and scan the computer for fault codes.


Question: 1977 Cadillac Coupe Deville V8 mileage: 120,180. That's right... 12,180 tender miles! This vehicle had one owner, my wife's father. Almost never driven. It was stored in a garage for around 20 years! The interior and exterior are in mint condition (perfect!) No dings, perfect original paint, just extremely dirty. I had it towed from the CA desert in Yucca Valley to my mechanic. The engine has a large 4bl carb. Tires are all rotted/flat. The under carriage all appears to be mint also, as does the engine compartment. In your collective opinion, is this car worth cleaning up, installing new tires, and going through the trouble and expense of getting it to run properly. As of today, I don't know if it will run. I'll know that latter in the week. What precautions and actions should be taken to safely attempt to get the motor to operate? I guess the fuel system could be all "gummed up" and the valves stuck shut and some internal parts rusted. If I can get it to run, what are the pitfalls of running it on unleaded fuel as I think it needs leaded fuel? If it all is worth the effort, what would an approximate value of the finished "project car" be?

Answer: Remove the sparkplugs, disconnect the coil and spray a light engine oil into each sparkplug hole before cranking the engine over. Crank the engine for about 30 seconds until you get oil pressure. Reinstall the sparkplugs and attempt to start. Your car should be required to run on unleaded fuel. As far as the "worth of the effort," that is a personal decision you will have to make.


Question: 1998 Cadillac Sedan Deville V8 mileage: 89,000. Driving down the road - no particular speed, temp, rhyme or reason,  my car will suddenly lose power to the point where I have to pull over and shut it off. I've been to many dealers and repair centers, been hooked to every scanner known to man and still no answers. I have spent thousands replacing parts. Any ideas before I ditch the car?

Answer: Intermittent problems are difficult to diagnose. The problem you described must be isolated when the stalling occurs to pinpoint the cause. One of three things could be happening: 1. Lack of fuel; 2. Lack of spark at the spark plugs; or 3. Electronic component failure. Our first guess would be fuel pump failure.


Automobile / Cadillac / Deville

Look up more Cadillac Deville Questions in our Car Repair forum section.

Try looking up your problem in our Auto Repair topics section

Got a Car Repair Question? We will answer it for free.

Related Subjects

GET AN ONLINE CAR REPAIR MANUAL. Get instant access to your vehicles drive belt routing, wiring diagrams, trouble code information, updates and factory bulletins.

 

Popular Service Repairs
Test Fuses
Front Brake Pads
Tune Up
Transmission Service
Rear Brake Pads
Rear Brake Shoes
Replace Window Motor
Test Alternator
Test Battery

Replace Air Filter

Check Engine Light

More Service Repairs...
Advertisement

Car Repair Home l Help l Privacy Policy l User Agreement l About Us l Contact Us l Link to Us l Affiliate Program
  Copyright © 1998 - 2008 2CarPros.com - Professional Mechanics Online