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Cadillac Repair Questions and Answers

Question: 1999 Cadillac Seville  mileage: 82,000. Recent engine problem said to be MAYBE a MAP sensor as car stalls with Fuel Rich Mixture and gives a Code of 21. Changed TPS and idling improved but erratic (sometimes) stall occurs proceeded by "Check Engine Light"! Spent thousands of dollars on this engine since day #1 - has NEVER run correctly -- and have spent lots more restoring car as my wife loves it! #1 Do you believe it is as simple as MAP sensor (current crisis)? And #2 where on earth can I buy one? Have tried! #3 Can I get this lemon engine to EVER run right? Can a speed shop do it? Tell me - please! Can you explain why this year's engine has been such a problem? Cadillac was NEVER able to make it run smoothly and correctly! Remedies?

Answer:  The "check engine" light will "light" when there is a malfunction in the engine management system. The fault code is then stored in the computer. The computer must be scanned to retrieve these stored faults to pinpoint the malfunctioning component. We recommend buying your own scanner and doing it yourself. With a code scanner you can check for fault codes to find out why the light came on in the first place. You can clear your cars trouble codes after you make the needed repairs.

Question: 1995 Cadillac Seville SLS 4.6 mileage: 90,000. The blower to the heater and A/C has stopped. The controls seem to work because I can hear the dampers moving when I hit the auto button. The fuses are ok, the relay is ok and with a meter there is 12 volts going to the blower motor. The housing where the motor has cast into the plastic "cut here to remove motor". Do you just cut this open like a can and how do you repair the cuts? Have I checked everything there is to check before I start surgery? Also the plastic housing that the motor goes into is broken and chipping off all the way across the firewall. Is this normal?

Answer: Yes you have to cut the housing to remove the blower motor. Your local parts house should have some tar like sealer that you can use reseal it when you are done. We are not quite sure what you mean by the chipping of the plastic housing but it does not sound normal to us.

Question: 1996 Cadillac Seville STS 4.8 mileage: 75,000. This has happened 4-5 times in the last few months. The car would be traveling about 40-50 mph then the information center states an Emissions System problem. Then the check engine light comes on then when the car comes to a stop, it dies. It will restart after 3-4 attempts and runs rough for a short while. Later the next day the check engine light goes out and runs fine until the next fault. I had the alternator replaced as the mechanic stated it was not producing enough voltage, which could change the parameters of the sensors. He stated he would recommend this first, as I needed a new alternator anyway. A week later the same problem occurred and I had the Cadillac dealership test it with their diagnostics. He stated two error codes were shown, the EGR valve and or the Mass Air Flow. He stated he would try new spark plug wires and plugs before replacing the other parts. I put new wires and plugs but had the same problem. Would you recommend replacing the mass airflow sensor and the erg valve? Larry

Answer: The stalling problems that you are experiencing are probably not caused by the EGR valve. There is a slight chance the mass airflow sensor may be at fault. However, we are putting our money on a faulty fuel pump or ECM.

Question: 1999 Cadillac Seville  mileage: 125,000. Engine has had recent over-haul, after being garage kept for about 5 years and not run often. Car was stored in western Ohio where terrain is very flat. Drove car locally for two days with no problems starting, running or otherwise. It smelled a little musty inside though. Go figure! While driving the car back east, about two and half-hours into the trip, the engine felt as if it were losing power. Pulled off and noticed oil filler cap not seating properly and air filter was very black. Replaced the air filter and made a temporary gasket (filler cap not available) and the car seemed to run better. But when the car was either running hotter or the mountains of West Virginia getting bigger the car would have to be pulled over and rest before proceeding. It seems as if the engine was flooding. After a ten or fifteen minute rest, certainly not long enough to cool. The car would run and make it up the next few 'hills'. Was thinking of replacing the fuel filter and use a diesel fuel treatment before moving to the bigger items. What course of action should I follow as the car otherwise is in fine condition. Needs a few bulbs and a new door lock switch but interior and exterior in excellent shape. Besides, after all I went through to bring in home I would hate to give up now.

Answer: Check the mechanical fuel pump that supplies fuel to the injector pump. Do a compression check on the engine. If both check okay, the main injector pump may be your problem.

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