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Buick Electra Car Repair Questions and Answers

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Question: 1990 Buick Electra mileage: 120,000. My car won't stop squealing, especially when it rains, but recently when it hasn't.  I've gone through two belts in the past four years.  The last belt was quiet for half a year because the mechanic told me to replace the water pump, which I did (under warranty).  Their explanation was that the belt was too dry, so I believed them.  The service advisor poured a little water on the belt to demonstrate, and instantly the noise was even louder.  After the demonstration, he applied some silicone lubricant and the noise disappeared.  I don't believe that this solved the problem because the noise came back again. A neighbor told me that the tensioner might need to be replaced because the spring could be worn out.  I brought that up with the service department, however, they said it was fine.  Is there anything else that I can check to solve this problem?

Answer: Try replacing the belt tensioner and install a new belt.   If the tensioner is weak, it will allow the belt to slip slightly causing the belt to glaze.  A glazed belt would be the cause of your squeaking problems.  We know of no belt conditioner that would quiet a glazed belt for any length of time.

Question: 1990 Buick Electra mileage: 100,200. I have loud knocking sound when the throttle is pressed down halfway or more, and the knocking gets louder the further I press the pedal. However, the engine idles fine and accelerates smoothly at low throttle. The car also uses more gas than usual. Using high-octane gas or additives doesn't make the problem go away. I hooked up a code scanner, and the EEC-IV computer shows the following trouble codes: CODE 31: "EGR sensor voltage too low". I changed the sensor and cleared the codes, but it's still showing this code. CODE 41: "Oxygen sensor readings constantly show a lean condition". I also used a sensor tester, and it also shows the oxygen sensors are reading a constant lean condition. I replaced both oxygen sensors, but the engine is still running lean and giving this trouble code. In the past 5000 miles I have: 1) Changed the distributor cap, rotor, spark plugs, spark plug wires, air filter, fuel filter, and battery. 2) Checked the ignition timing and timing advance. 3) Checked for any vacuum leaks. I don't think there are any, because a vacuum leak would make the engine idle too fast, but the engine idles fine. 4) Checked and cleaned the fuel injectors. I used a fuel injector and harness tester, and they open and close properly with no obstructions to the fuel flow. 5) Checked the fuel pressure. It reads 35 PSI, which is within the normal range. 6) ** Hooked up a vacuum gauge. It shows a steady 15 when idling in drive, which seems too low. 7) Checked the Rpms with a tachometer, and it idles correctly at 550 Rpms. 8) Checked the charging system, which reads a constant 13.8 volts. In the past 20,000 miles, I have: Changed the EGR valve, timing chain, gears, camshaft, hydraulic lifters, and alternator. Other observations: I believe the main crankshaft bearings are slightly worn, as indicated by low oil pressure and a knocking sound when engine is first started. Also a slight ticking sound coming from a hydraulic lifter on cylinder #3. I would very much appreciate any opinions, guesses, or even blind hunches from you gentlemen before I take this car to a repair shop.

Answer: It sounds like you are having internal engine problems. You possibly have a broken piston or broken rings.

Question: 1986 Buick Electra. To remove & replace the starter motor from this vehicle, the "Haynes" manual says that in some cases the exhaust pipes or the frame cross member may need to be removed to get access to the starter. In extreme cases, the motor mounts may even have to be unbolted and the engine raised slightly!!! Could you advise me which would be the easiest choice, bearing in mind my tools are limited sockets and wrenches) and I am concerned about stripping / breaking the exhaust pipe bolts if I try to turn them!

Answer: Try spraying the exhaust pipe bolts with WD-40 or something similar. Let it soak overnight. The "Haynes" manual is not giving you a choice of how to remove the starter. It is telling you what may have to be removed.