Engine Mechanical problem
1999 Mitsubishi Galant 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 120000 miles

Hello,

I am considering changing the spark plugs, wires, & coils on my 99 Mitsu Galant (120K, 4cyl) myself. Is it absolutely necessary to get the plugs from Mitsubishi and is it necessary to get plug seals and coil boots also?
A better question is can someone list everything I need for the spark plug change? Lastly, will I be doing myself a performance disservice by purchasing the higher priced items online (RockAuto, Autoparts Warehouse, etc.)

Hello –

Let’s start with the plugs. As long as you get what the OEM calls for. On this model, the plug choices are: NGK BKR6E-11 or Denso K16PRU-11 or Champion RC10YC4.

Make sure they are gapped properly: 0.039-0.043

I would put a touch of anti-seize on the thread and torque to the required 25N.m (18ft.lb)

The coils: MD362907 are about $96 each from the dealer……some only go dealer on parts like this. Auto Zone is about $87 per coil……..another $9 and you have the OEM. As long as it is a good reliable name brand then it should be okay.

Wires or seals/boots: As long as it is a good reliable name brand…then it should be okay. For me, I only go with OEM on these parts. I have had too many problems not using OEM. Now that isn’t to say that millions don’t get these parts somewhere else and have no problems. That is a personal thing.

I get 1000s of parts on line, different places and not use OEM. But I just have certain things I don’t want the worry.

Make sure you change the fuel filter, air filter. While you are in there check all wires and items for chaffing, wear, signs of future problems.

So – to answer your question….it is almost a personal choice. Again, I would stick to OEM recommendations on plugs…..

Coils/Boots/seals…..me – I would go OEM unless it was a good name brand or the site said they were OEM items at a discount. I get many GM parts that way.

If we were talking a radiator…..I would shop around….alternators…..shop around…..

On cleaning the throttle body….if you choose – I have attached that for you. Be careful where you spray the TB cleaner. Plug those holes and clean with a Q-tip soaked in the TB cleaner.

Last, since you didn’t’ specify if the vehicle was a DE, ES, GTZ or LS I went with the ES model. Looks like you may have some recalls on your vehicle. The dealer may fix these for free. Please contact the dealer service department, give them the VIN number of your car and have them check on these to see if they apply to you.

Hope that helps……good luck on the tune up.

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THROTTLE BODY (THROTTLE VALVE AREA) CLEANING

Start the engine and warm it up until the coolant is heated to 80 °C (176 °F) or higher. Then stop the engine.
Remove the air intake hose from the throttle body.



CAUTION: Do not allow cleaning solvent to enter the bypass passage.



Plug the bypass passage inlet (arrow) of the throttle body.
Spray cleaning solvent into the valve through the throttle body intake port and leave it for approximately five minutes .
Start the engine, rev it several times and then idle it for about one minute . If the idling speed becomes unstable (or if the engine stalls) due to the bypass passage being plugged, slightly open the throttle valve to keep the engine running.
If the throttle valve deposits are not removed, repeat steps 4 and 5.
Unplug the bypass passage inlet.
Attach the air intake hose.
Use the scan tool to erase any diagnostic trouble code.
Adjust the basic idle speed. NOTE: If the engine hunts while idling after adjustment of the basic idle speed, disconnect the negative cable from the battery for 10 seconds or more, and then reconnect it and run the engine at idle for about 10 minutes after the engine is warmed up.

Hello –

Oh – thought of this for you too. The maintenance Table. This gives you and idea on what should be accomplished when to keep the car in the best shape you can. Does everyone religiously follow this…..probably not. But this will give you an idea and things to look and plan for. These things are on the specified miles for a reason. Maybe if we all did pay more attention to them we wouldn’t be fixing them later.

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Please let us know if what the final fix was for your car so we can better assist others. Thanks!

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Thanks ImpalaSS. That was very helpful. I have and ES, by the way. I was under the impression that all I needed was the wires, plugs, and coils. Luckily, I did some additional research and had you to clear things up for me. Thanks again.
I know the fuel filter needs to be changed and the TB cleaned. I neglected to mention that this will be my first attempt at anything outside of topping off fluids, changing the air filter, etc. I have Chiltons Total Car Care Cd and the internet and a few friends I can get some info from. Do you think I will be in over my head?

Hello –

You are very welcome….that is what we are all here for.

Well, I don’t know your mechanical ability…..so as long as you have folks to chat with….us…this shouldn’t be too bad. Just a few pointers if you don’t mind.

Allow yourself plenty of time……if things happen to a seasoned mechanic they are bound to happen to you. So again, allow yourself time……plenty.

Make notes of the way things are put together. Don’t trust your memory. Depending on what I am doing I will have a clip board and paper right there. Also labels….so if I see lots of things are going to be taken apart then one end of a connection gets a sticker with an A on it and the connecter it goes to also gets an A. So now you know A goes to A.

Special routing of cables and wires….this is very important to prevent chaffing, kinks, things binding.

Take off one thing at a time and make sure you look at it to see how it goes back on. It may look the same on both sides but….one side may have a recessed area.

I lay things down in the order they come off. I keep the bolts/nuts in zip locks with the items. Alos, some bolts are different lengths. Depending on what it is, I will take a piece of cardboard and draw out the item, poke holes where the bolts go and put them in that hole they came out of.

Clean as you go….watch the cleaners you use some may damage parts.

When you remove it examine it for anything that may look odd…..out of place. If you pull a spark plug and it is wet with fuel…..that wouldn’t make sense. So now you may have a problem you need to check further into.

Keep a list as you go to repair certain things, a parts list etc. That way you make one run to the store.

Watch the angle on things….like the spark plugs. Letting the socket lean too much you could crack the spark plug. Incorrect torque and it will be too tight….not enough the exhaust will try to blow by it.

BIG THING….be safe. Before you take it apart see what it is connected to and if you remove it what will happen. Sometimes it is good to loosen everything to see what affects what.

This can be fun and very rewarding and you get to know and understand your car much better. Don’t be afraid to ask questions…..never be too proud to do that. We (the moderators) help each other…..there is a lot there and there is nothing like teamwork to make it better.

Take one plug /wire etc off and change at a time so you don’t get them mixed. To be safe….that is what I said about drawing them out where each wire etc goes.

Read over your task first…..if you have any questions then get back with us or a friend.

I am sure you will do fine…..again….take your time…..and be safe!

Thanks for the donation


Please let us know if what the final fix was for your car so we can better assist others. Thanks!

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Thanks. This is my last question until I come back w/ the update. You've been very helpful. Here is what I have narrowed it down to if I decided to stray away from OEM parts:
Coils: Beck Arnley #178-8225
Wires: NGK #F1020-108641
Plugs: NGK #BKR5E-11

I'm sure I've used up my donation for this question, but one more reply would be greatly appreciated.

I have uploaded a picture of my engine so you could take a look.
Thanks.

Hello – kendu90

First, thanks for the feedback vote. Very kind of you.

The plugs….not sure where you got that number at but I show for the NGK – BKR6E-11

From what I understand Beck-Arnley are okay and the book calls for the NGK.

One note….some of the info out there does say to use caution on certain after market ignition parts because they don’t necessarily follow OEM specs and you can damage your vehicle. Here is a quick note:
“Perhaps you enjoy the aroma of burnt wires and coils under the hood? We sure don't. Believe it or not, many aftermarket ignition coil packs are sold with a higher voltage range in comparison to most factory systems, which use a range of 300 volts to 400 volts. These aftermarket systems increase the payload to a whopping 450 to 500 volts, which can cause an ignition overload and net you with a crispy disaster. Not only do many of these ignition units bump up the voltage, they also produce negative current spikes of -30 amps to -40 amps, which will eventually lead to killing the coils due to its excessive negative current. Not all is lost with high voltage systems, though, these ignition units that often advertise how many mill joules and volts they deliver are considered ideal for drag racing, which demand high rpms during short intervals, but show limitations in performance gains within the midrange and lower rpm due to an overload in voltage and short lifespan of components. Damaging the factory igniter on vehicles such as the BMW, which inconveniently integrates the unit within the factory ECU, will set you back a hefty chunk of change.”
So, it doesn’t appear you are drifting too far off….this is for your info though. My only concern is your plug number is different.

Used up the donation…….naa….we are here to help…..

Your engine pic did not come across….

Thanks for the donation

Please let us know if what the final fix was for your car so we can better assist others. Thanks!

Find a car repair manual for your car repair questions.

ImpalaSS wrote:

Hello – kendu90 First, thanks for the feedback vote. Very kind of you. The plugs….not sure where you got that number at but I show for the NGK – BKR6E-11 From what I understand Beck-Arnley are okay and the book calls for the NGK. One note….some of the info out there does say to use caution on certain after market ignition parts because they don’t necessarily follow OEM specs and you can damage your vehicle. Here is a quick note: “Perhaps you enjoy the aroma of burnt wires and coils under the hood? We sure don't. Believe it or not, many aftermarket ignition coil packs are sold with a higher voltage range in comparison to most factory systems, which use a range of 300 volts to 400 volts. These aftermarket systems increase the payload to a whopping 450 to 500 volts, which can cause an ignition overload and net you with a crispy disaster. Not only do many of these ignition units bump up the voltage, they also produce negative current spikes of -30 amps to -40 amps, which will eventually lead to killing the coils due to its excessive negative current. Not all is lost with high voltage systems, though, these ignition units that often advertise how many mill joules and volts they deliver are considered ideal for drag racing, which demand high rpms during short intervals, but show limitations in performance gains within the midrange and lower rpm due to an overload in voltage and short lifespan of components. Damaging the factory igniter on vehicles such as the BMW, which inconveniently integrates the unit within the factory ECU, will set you back a hefty chunk of change.” So, it doesn’t appear you are drifting too far off….this is for your info though. My only concern is your plug number is different. Used up the donation…….naa….we are here to help….. Your engine pic did not come across…. Thanks for the donation Please let us know if what the final fix was for your car so we can better assist others. Thanks! Find a car repair manual for your car repair questions.

Thanks again. I just purchased plugs today, BKR5E-11. Through all my research, I keep seeing the "...6E-11" for the six cylinder galant. I have the 4 cyl. that is why I purchased the "...5E-11". Let me know if I'm reading something incorrectly. Lastly, I decided to go w/ Mitsubishi for the Coils ($95each) and the boots.

Thanks again.

Hello –

Well……I say go with the 5E……sounds crazy…but in the same manual I have attached the info I looked at. I was looking at the first pic……which as you see shows 6E…now check out the second pic…..same program…..different area…..5E……..but if you notice, the Denso and Champion numbers are correct for Pic 1 and 2......I looked up in another manual and it gave me OEM part number MS851357 which cross references to the 5E in several places……that is pic 3. So you were right I would say based off the 3 references show 5E and the one 6E. I looked up the 6cyl and it shows the 6E……….so good on you…..the 5E should be the right one.

Besides the other advice I gave……you are doing a good job on one I didn’t. Keep asking questions and why……..why did that break….are you sure it goes on that way….are you sure that is the right plug……keep up the good work……..next post you will be pulling engines!

I think a good idea for the Mitsubishi coils……was the price close??

Thanks for the donation

Please let us know if what the final fix was for your car so we can better assist others. Thanks!

Find a car repair manual for your car repair questions.

Glad we could clear that up. I just realized that I'm not sure what the gap is supposed to be. I have to look in my book. Any autoparts store should be able to check the gap for me, correct?
As far as the price for the coils. I checked 2 Mitsu Dealer's about 20 miles apart here in NJ. One had it for $95/ea. and the other for $135/ea. Needless to say, I went with the lower price. Thanks for all your help. I'm hoping to get this done this weekend.

I don't think the picture thing works.