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1998 Volkswagen Jetta Need Help!!
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Posted at Mon Jan 18, 2010 2:50 pm |
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By
vdub98,
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Engine Mechanical problem
1998 Volkswagen Jetta 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic
OK, so... i have this really weird problem going on. First of all last year i had really bad idle, it turn out that the throttle body went bad. I got a new one, did adaptation. When i test drove it, it was fine until it got at its normal temperature. I noticed that the idle didnt went all the way down to were it suppose to be at. I put it in Park and the noticed that the idle needle started to act a little bit crazy because it went up to 1400 RPMs and it like misfired, then went down to 800 and so on. Then i got this code P0341 which is the cam sensor. That got replaced last year also, the timing is aligned properly. Could it be a bad distributor cap or rotor? Thanks |
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Posted at Wed Jan 20, 2010 8:36 am |
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By
racefan966,
Certified 2CarPros Technician |
     (2963) Give Feedback | Votes: 44 |
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Ok lets check this code out. The codes seems to mean that there may not be power to the sensor. So unplug the sensor now using a digital multi meter check voltage between the to outer terms on the harness coming into the sensor not on the sensor itself ok, do this with the key on voltage should be 9 to 14 volts. Let me know what you find and we will go from there. |
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Posted at Wed Jan 20, 2010 11:32 am |
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By
vdub98,
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It gave me 10 volts. I forgot to mention, after that part when i said i parked the car and try to start the car again. The throttle body wasnt making its alignment anymore. it usually makes a sound when i put it in the ignition on. Also, i noticed the altrernator is making noise, maybe the bearing are going bad inside. I was planning on taking it to oreilly and get it tested today. The engine block was replaced about more than a year ago. Did a full tune up. I accidentaly broke a plug wire, had to buy the whole set. I replaced all the plug wires with the new ones i got to see if that would fix the problem. But it didnt. The battery was replaced last year too. |
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Posted at Thu Jan 21, 2010 7:58 am |
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By
racefan966,
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     (2963) Give Feedback | Votes: 44 |
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OK once the alternator is checked then we will go from there. If you would check the cap and rotor see how it looks inside. What you look for is carbon tracking, this will look like hair line crackes within the cap. As for the rotor look for burning through the center and carbon build up on the contact end. Let me know how it goes. If all here is good then we will be checking more into the code. The voltage is good but we will need to make sure that the rest of the circuit is working as that it what the code is about anyway. |
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Posted at Thu Jan 21, 2010 9:05 pm |
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vdub98,
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I got the alternator tested today and it failed. Do you think i should get a new alternator or there might something else wrong too?? I actually did borrowed an alternator from a friend which he has a 95 Golf and is the same part like mine. It was installed in my car and that code disappeared. I replaced the distributor cap and rotor about a week ago, just to see if that was the problem, but nothing happen still the same. The problem that i have now is that is not letting me adapt the throttle body again. I bought this VAG-COM system which is for VWs. Well i cant get rid of this code P1580 which is the throttle actuator malfunction. I erase the code then go to adaptation procedures for the throttle body it says error. I go back and check for codes and there it is again. Someone told me that code will not go away if the battery is really low. Is that true? |
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Posted at Fri Jan 22, 2010 7:48 am |
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By
racefan966,
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     (2963) Give Feedback | Votes: 44 |
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First off if the alternator is bad then it needs to be replaced so that the battery will keep charged and everthing will get the proper voltage. Now it looks like the throttle body code is a voltage problem not the throttle body itself. So with the code now lets do the testing needed to check that. I need you to unplug the throttle body control then use pic below, check voltage between term 4 and 7 you should have 4 to 6 volts. If this checkes good then we will need to check voltages at sockets at the ECM. Let me know what you find and we will take it from there. |
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Posted at Fri Jan 22, 2010 9:23 pm |
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By
vdub98,
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I got the throttle body problem solved, i could finally make an adaptation. Let's go back to the cam sensor problem thing because the light came on again. I even got a new alternator and install. Is making the same thing still. It sounds like if there was a misfire. I dont know whatelse to check for. What should i do??Sorry about my car problem because is long. |
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Posted at Sat Jan 23, 2010 6:46 am |
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By
racefan966,
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     (2963) Give Feedback | Votes: 44 |
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What code do you have now? Have you checked the cap, rotor, wires and plugs? Get back to me with what you can and we will see what we do. |
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Posted at Sat Jan 23, 2010 12:06 pm |
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By
vdub98,
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The code is P0341. I forgot to mention yesterday that the new distributor i got, came with a new dist. cap and rotor. What i did last week is bought a new dist. cap and rotor. But it gives me the code. When i put the other rotor that came with the new distributor it gives me the code really quick after i start the car. When i put the new one i got the code wont show up til the next time i start up the car. Maybe, the rotor i got is bad also. Is there a way to test those distributors if they r bad or good? Could a bad alternator do damage to any of my components?
Thanks, have a nice weeeknd! |
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Posted at Mon Jan 25, 2010 4:58 pm |
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By
racefan966,
Certified 2CarPros Technician |
     (2963) Give Feedback | Votes: 44 |
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Ok this is still the cam shaft sensor code. I now need you to check ohms between term 1 at the cam shaft sensor (see pic below) and term number 56 at the ECM should only be 5 ohms. Then do the same between 2 at the cam sensor and term 44 at the ecm. Should also be 5 ohms. Let me know what you find.
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