Engine Cooling problem
1992 Buick Century 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 66000 miles
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I heard a swishing sound while driving yesterday seems to come from heater core area.I checked my coolent reservoir and it was empty.I filled it to the mark on edge and drove it to work today when I got there I rechecked it and found it almost empty again I then refilled it to the mark and also visually checked the radiator it took just a little of coolent.I then did an errand and checked it when I got back to work I noticed water dripping from engine block at water pump area could it be the pump?

It could be. It could also be other cooling system components in the same area, including bypass hose, heater hose or pipe or radiator hose. Look carefully for the exact source of the leak while the engine is running (beware of belt, pulleys and other moving components).

yes jalopypapa I did find a small leaking hose.The large hose coming from the radiator connects tp one end which I presume might be to the thermostat,on the other end is a hose that looks like it may be about 5/8 dia going to engine.It has a hose clamp on it.Looks like I need to move the distributer out of the way to get to that part of the hose and maybe even the alternator any suggestions?I'd love to be able just to tighten up the clamp a little for now then begin to change hoses in the near future.Thanks for your response.

If you're talking about a short hose between the pump area and the block, perhaps with a slight angle to it, this is the bypass hose. You can try tightening the clamp, but my guess is that it is ruptured, probably around the clamp. Remove any necessary components in the way (on the 3.3 liter, it's the coil pack module). Ask for a new one at the parts counter and install with new clamps.

I looked at it again to refresh my memory, and you do seem to be describing the bypass hose. It goes behind the alternator/coil pack mounting bracket. I think you can reach both ends without moving the bracket, but I think I did for better access. You might be tempted to substitute a plain length of 5/8-inch heater hose, but it won't make the bend without kinking.

yes jalopypapa it was bypass hose.I tried tightning the clamp was able to get thru area where wires are to tighten it but when I did I noticed the hose move alot.Come to find out the connection in the block was plastic and the threads end broke off in the block leaving the other end in hose.Was looking for a tap to fit hole then was going to retap it to get plastic out but couldnt find a tap big enough so used a 3/4 union with a hex on it to screw it in using a 3/4 deep well socket after trying a large screwdriver to hopefully turn threads out which kept slipping and didn't have an easy out to use either.Any ways got the threads cleaned out it was all powder no heavy debree also kept unscrewing union and cleaning it off and rescrew it in till got the whole hole cleaned then installed a metal hose adapter and reattached the hose.No leaks now.My serpintine belt needs changing next and will also do the water pump the same time I read somewhere that to do the water pump the engine needs to be jacked up a little to get pump off is that true?If so I'll let a mechanic do that 1

Plastic, huh? Wow, Acer, what an ordeal. Glad it came out OK. I've changed my water pump a couple of times. It was no big deal, no jacking of motor required. I believe there are 10 bolts holding it on, and one is easy to miss seeing, maybe a little 10 mm guy in a tight place that can be turned only with an open-end wrench. Be sure to put some sealant on the bolt threads and shoulders of the bolt heads.

I looked again, and it looks even more straightforward than I remembered. Apparently eight bolts, none particularly recondite.