1995 Ford Mustang Diagnostic Code 542

timncandy · Posted at Mon Jun 29, 2009 12:55 pm

Electrical problem
1995 Ford Mustang V8 Two Wheel Drive Automatic 75,000 miles

Drove the car to church with no indication of any problems; got in it to go home and it would not start. Nothing happened at all except a check engine light even when the key was off. Now we get a clicking noise which sounds like it is coming from the CCRM which stops when we open the drivers door and resumes when we close the drivers door. We managed to get it started once for a brief moment; it ran very sluggish. We pulled a 542 code off of it. Please help!!!!

Docfixit · Posted at Mon Jun 29, 2009 1:24 pm

Hi
Code is for CCRM fault which powers PCM, fuel pump.
It is not servicable so replacement is necessary.

timncandy · Posted at Mon Jun 29, 2009 7:34 pm

Thank you for your quick response. We will proceed with your advice and let you know if it solves our problem.

timncandy · Posted at Thu Jul 02, 2009 3:49 pm

We replaced the CCRM; that did not fix it. What would you recommend trying next? We are in need of immediate help if possible. TXS!!!

Docfixit · Posted at Sat Jul 04, 2009 7:54 am

Find starter solenoid on fender small wire is from ignition with key to start is there voltage ? What is battery voltage? Pull plug wire check for spark if yes . Spray carb cleaner in throttle body fire?
Let me know

timncandy · Posted at Sat Jul 04, 2009 12:28 pm

Voltage on battery 13.45; starter selenoid is on starter, ran probe to positive on starter terminal got no cranking voltage. Still no lights, horn or other electrical when battery is connected. Please let me know if you can think of anything else.

Docfixit · Posted at Sat Jul 04, 2009 1:42 pm

Check for voltage on white/pink wire at starter key in start. if no check yellow wire at relay engine compartment. if no ignition switch

timncandy · Posted at Mon Aug 03, 2009 8:37 am

I apologize for not getting back to you sooner.

There is voltage at the White/Pink wire on the Ignition Switch and while I was there I decided to test the Ignition Switch. While removing it to test the mounting Pem broke from the casement of the Ignition Switch so I installed a new one but it did not fix it.

I was told of a simiilar problem that was caused by an Alarm that had gone bad and since I did have an Alarm, I carefully removed it tonight and then went to start it and it started BUT was quickly short lived. After starting it, it ran good for about 30 seconds and so I backed up the street to take a run up the drive way and when I put it in drive it died. The CCRM started ticking again and I’m back to the drawing board it would seem.

So here is the rehash of the 95 Mustang that will not start:
1. There again is no power to anything other than the Check Engine Light on the Dashboard
2. The battery still has 13.45v
3. The Alternator is good
4. The Battery Cables are good
5. The CCRM is good
6. The Fuel Circuit in the Trunk has not been tripped
7. There is power to the Ignition Switch
8. The Ignition Switch is good
9. The car will start and did run
10. The CCRM still Ticks unless the door is opened

I’m ready to test something else…

Please advise.

Thanks,
Tim

Docfixit · Posted at Mon Aug 03, 2009 8:54 am

O.K.
Lets go back to basics first pull plug wire hold 1/4 inch from block crank spark? if spark spray carb cleaner into air intake crank fires up? if yes check fuel pressure at schrader on fuel rail 35-44 psi.

timncandy · Posted at Mon Aug 03, 2009 6:55 pm

Primary Symptom:
To be clear; while there is plenty of voltage at the (2.) battery there is (1.) no power to anything other than the Check Engine Light on the Dashboard.

At this time, there is no Cranking, therefore there is no spark. However, by fluke or fortune, it did for some reason get power yesterday for a moment, started, ran, allowed me to back up, then died as soon as I put it in Drive and then went back to its primary symptom.

95 Mustang that will not start:
1. There is no power to anything other than the Check Engine Light on the Dashboard
2. The battery still has 13.45v
3. The Alternator is good
4. The Battery Cables are good
5. The CCRM is good
6. The Fuel Circuit in the Trunk has not been tripped
7. There is power the Ignition Switch
8. The Ignition Switch is good
*
9. The car will start and did run
10. The CCRM still Ticks unless the door is opened

I’m ready to test something else…

Please advise.

Thanks,

Tim