Engine Performance problem
1988 Chevy Beretta 6 cyl All Wheel Drive Automatic 84,700 miles

My car ran great, was in accident, back left fender. While at Bodyshop for weeks ask them to replace PVC filter, since that was only thing flagged at FS when getting routine work. When wrestled car away from Body Shop on way home when idling at lights, car began to chug, almost stall and engine light came on, that wkend began to stall at lights.
9-16-08 (84,390 miles) Took in to FS they said PVC valve missing along with hose. Replaced and put in engine sensor: AC107 Idle Air Control motor, then Throttle Body Gasket, and not sure if cleaned or replaced throttle body. 11-06-08 (84,636) took car back in stalled turning a conner. NOT running the way it did before accident, very low power, low idle no smoke. When turned on in past engine would reve up for a few 5-6 seconds then settle down to a strong, steady idle. Now no reving. At idle feels like it is about to die, so push on gas a lot. The 11-06 repair was Reman Air Mass Sensor. Tech sd. rechecked after install and no trouble codes showing up. It has been drivable but still low power, low idle... but 11-17-08 stalled again when turning... I may not have been giving it gas in the turn. Engine light came on again. Slow cranking, but caught first try.( Have new battery and electricall system was checked in Feb. 0 oh joy.

Ok can you get me the trouble code? Sense the engine light came on it should have set a code. If you don't have a scanner go to a local parts store that has a scanner to use (will do for free usually) and retrieve the code and get it to me so I can see why the light is coming on.

Called Ask an Expert, Drive-Away and he said from what I told him that the Idle Air Contol Motor base setting needs to be reprogramed. ( I assume to run at a higher idle speed) On your web site it says to repair (possibly) non related codes after engine is running properly (note: my engine has not run properly since the IAC was installed 9-15-0 because sometimes false codes can be triggered by engine stalling. The IAC is under warrenty, so will take car back to those guys and hopefully this will get the power back.. to where it was and then proceed to ck and see if trouble code turns off on it's own. Does that sound like a reasonable plan?

Yes this sound like it would be what I would do if it were me. If it under warranty then you won't have to pay for it either if it is bad. It does take a special tool to set the IAC motor too. So yea tell them the situation and be calm and get them to make it right. Thanks